I bought the lower kit to do the lower arms, just to make sure, I need to run a threaded rod with jam Nuts thru the eyelet of the arm to locate the new bushing? Then cut and weld the tube to the bushing?
The way you have described it is correct. This allows the pivot point to be on the same axis as the LCA.
That method will work. If it was me, I would use a threaded bushing end to go into the tube for alignment adjustment though. Something like this 4 Link Adjustable End or Ballistic Forged Poly Bushing 2.63"
I thought the strut bar was used to keep the lower arm in line, did not know it was used for alignment.
It's usefulness for alignment purposes is limited but I suppose there are a few degrees available before the bushings get trashed from side loading.
You'd be surprised. You can easily set the caster angle with the lower adjustment. Solid mounting the LCA limits how much adjustment you have in the overall alignment. You can still get it, but it's much more difficult.
I don't currently have a pic.... but it's the Cando kit. I think the new owners of Steve's old shop still carry them. I'll look them up.
I looked at your build, I asume you were able to get the front end alignment with no problems, only adjusting the uppers?
You do not have to use the adjustable lowers. Like I said, its just how I would do it. Unless you weld the tubes or tabs way off, alignments should be able to be adjusted in with just the uppers.
Yes, I have the Cando uppers which are offset an 1/8" out, and really helped get the alignment where it needed to be. But you'll be fine.
Honestly, I've considered doing it to mine even though they are already triangulated. First, it can't hurt. Secondly, I've been wanting to fab up a sway bar again, but need a place to attach it.