I am going to run solid motor mounts in my truck. The exhuast is hung very close to the frame and everytime I get on it hard the exhaust rubs against it. I have looked at the urethane mounts from LC engineering ( I know they are not solid but they should be stiff) but I like these cool mounts from Blueyfab.. Any of you guys used these mounts. I'm not worried about the vibrations that solid mounts cause.
lc engineering should sell solid mounts also. Ive thought about running them myself, the way i look at it is it will cause more shake to the chassis. so u might want to think if the welds where the stock ones blot up to will hold (i dont see y not) but it will also help deliver more power to the rear as the motor wont twist. just my .02
Any of you guys used these mounts. I'm not worried about the vibrations that solid mounts cause.[/QUOTE] Never used those specific brand mounts, but its good your not concerned about vibration
what if instead of using firm mounts, make a top engine motor mount brace? its a real tall motor and i used to have issues with that on my 85 crawler cus of the low range torque so i installed a rubber mounted strut to the top of the fender well. stopped almost all of the twist and felt fine.
sorry, i didnt get any shots of that before i sold the truck.... it was connected between the number 2 and 3 cylinders on the exhaust manifold studs in a "y" connection and over to the fender well with a rubber bushing setup on both sides. it was nothing fancy but it did a good job stopping that annoying torque twist.
ill try to see if a buddy of mine can make one up...... it'd be alot neater since he has a tubing bender and welds like an artist. ill see if i can draw one up on a picture......
if any of you buy those silly overpriced lc mounts.... go order a transmission mount for a TH350 chev tranny. some of you may need to trim 1/4in off 2 corners and make the holes bigger on one side. all in all bout 2 min with a hack saw and a drill. heres how to do it on a celica http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12680 you can buy it here http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/search.asp and if you send a e-mail you can get them in chrome for $50 i constantly blew motor mounts on the drivers side on my wheeler. since i installed 1 poly mount my eng hasnt moved. i only put it on the drivers side, and some dry day im gonna wheel hoodless and see just how much it moves when i beat on it. lil more vibration then before but i got used to it after a few months, and off road i never noticed it.
Thanks for all or your ideas! I'm not sure about the brace idea since my truck is turbo and there is already alot of stress on the exhaust studs supporting the heavy manifold, turbo and exhaust. It may work out if I attach the brace to the engine lift bracket bolt in the head. The LC engineering solid mount price is outrageous. almost $500. Their urethane street mounts are $100. Shonuff, That's cool. I'm def going to use your idea on another project I have going. I think the one made by blueyfab are a good compromise. They are a solid weld 2 piece with a urethane bushing at the pivot point. Plus they sell for $89 for the pair. The oem mount are just 2 steel plate glued to a rubber pad. There is no interlocking structure to hold the mount together if the glue bond fails. That scares me.
yea, the upper support strut was just an idea i had at the time. im sure you could redesighn it to work on your application or setup. it dont have to be from the exhaust studs though it worked for me and never had any issues with it.better mounting point would probably be the power steering mounting area if you dont have p/s.
Now there's a thought..... I have considered the chain thing but the new mounts would look cleaner. Oh yeah, that reminds me. Years ago I saw a toy truck in the junk yard that had a 3tc ( toyota 1.8 liter hemi 4 cylinder) swapped into it. The guy didn't fab up any motor mounts. He just welded a chain from the engines motor mout bracket to the frame. The engine sat on it's oilpan on the crossmember.
ive never understood the need for a pivot point w/ bushing in a solid mount. the ES bushings have a interlocking design, if it fails it will only move .5in.