ok,i will try today and post what happens...

 

koo just make sure to put them back where u took em off from

 

Check your engine and tranny mounts if any of them are broken.

 

I was JUST thinking about the throttle flap...

is it completely closed before you mess with idle? lol
There's a little screw, J

 

I will check it out..Thanks!

 

I tried with the emergency only brake on...put in drive..no foot on the brake..same result..idle drops to 500rpm..engine shakes..will do the Seafoam treatment Thursday...will keep ya posted..Thanks again for all the advice..this is the best forum for TOYOTA MINIS RULE!!!

 

Seems as though you're jumping from one thing to another.

Start with the basics of your motor and use a list and start systematically tracking the problem down or you're going to be throwing parts and money at it for a long time until you find out what or why it was running poorly.
Lets set up some basic scenarios for you t to get you started. Use a list or some thing to get you oraganised.
1. the plugs, you put in with wires, rotor, cap? they are of good quality? (denso, ngk?) Some auto parts store wires and plugs just plain suck and we all know it. They are gapped correctly? (i know this sounds basic but we must cover the easy stuff to eliminate it before we start into the more complicated stuff).
2. The motor is timed correctly? This is a big one and needs to be done properly for the truck to run right. (i think your timing might be off a little call it a hunch)
3. fluids, air filters, so on and so forth go ahead and check those as you never know it could be a combination of things that lead to your truck not doing what it is supposed to do.
4. lets check for vacuum leaks by using a good ole can of carb cleaner and making sure all of your lines are up to snuff. This is also related to the comment earlier about the brake booster and the low idle loping you were referring to as a possible culprit. I'll also have you check the pvc valve at this time but it's not crucial.
5. structural as mentioned before is another part to check as well. Motor mounts, trans mounts ect.
6. electrical as well. Grounds, wires, loose fittings you get the point.

So make a list check it twice and let us know what you find. Like i said some of this stuff might be redundant but it will get you a proper running engine sooner. And it will help you to trouble shoot and diagnose a problem in the future. Good luck.

 

Good advice..The cap and rotor are oem,the plugs NGK..I will check the gap again..The wires are cheap though,they might be the culprit..the timing is right on..new PCV..Sprayed everything with carb cleaner,can`t find any leaks..New fuel filter..air filter..I did find a small amount of OIL inside dist???..Would a bad EGR valve make the truck run bad at idle like this?..I have not looked there yet..At this point I`m thinking plug wires or plugs..Who makes a good set besides Toyota..they wanted $100 for a set!!!..No Way!..I`ll check the plugs and wires today if the rain ever stops here in Michigan..Thanks Again!

 

ngk makes a good set. Sounds like your carb might be dirty as well might want to look into that if you have yet to do so. I added that to the list as well.
7. check carb for proper running and fuel delivery. read here 22R Carburetor FAQ
yes a bad egr can contribute to a poorly running engine.

 

I put a new set of NGK Platinum plugs in..seems to run a little smoother..I have some new NGK plug wires coming Sunday..What is the best way to clean the Carb without taking it off?..I will do that today and see what happens..Thanks again for all the advice!

 

updates??? was curious as to if or how this got fixed.

 

New NGK plugs and NGK wires...Still shakes like hell when put in drive or reverse...EGR or Carb???

 

have u checked your timing? motor mounts?

 

Timing is dead on...Will check the mounts this week..Thanks!..Will let you know.

 

could be a transmission problem also if its running great in park/ neutral might have a bad torque converter staying locked up

 

Timing is dead on...Will check the mounts this week..Thanks!..Will let you know.

 

I have a new symptom now maybe you can check for it also lakes. today I was sitting at a red light i neutral and I thought my engine started making a rod knock type noise but when I parked I could hear it coming from the torque converter area. I couldn't fiddle with it right then and now that I'm home the noise is gone, but in neutral or park if i tap the gas it sounds like someone is jingling keys inside the transmission at the torque converter. I did some googling and this seems points toward a (or multiple) loose torque converter bolts. Does this sound plausible?

 

could be possible but not likely converters do fail i use to see allot fail @ the tranny shop next to my old one mostly just high mileage but every once in a while a bum converter

 

Took the truck to a shop by my house..The owner has worked on all my cars for years..He said the #3 cylinder was not firing,but it had good compression..I told him i had changed the plugs,wires and cap and maybee i had mixed up the wires...He said he would check that out..Then the shop got busy and he never got back to the truck..Since it`s not my DD,he will work on it on Monday..I will keep ya`ll posted..Thanks Again,Chris

 

83 longbed..Auto

Got some bad news today..My mechanic looked at my truck again..Says the compression on the #3 cyl. is ok until the truck warms up...them the compression on that cyl. drops real low..He says I might have a bad or stuck ring...I could drive it for a while and hope that the ring might loosen up..or just put up with it running on 3 cyl`s..or take the piston out and fix it right..He said it would cost me a lot of $ that i don`t have...Any idea`s on a cheap fix?..Can you buy some kind of additive that might help?..He said if the truck has been sitting and not been driven for a while..like this one has been..that could cause the ring to become stuck...Sheeeet!..Any cheap fixes out there..Ha-Ha!..Thanks in Advance,Chris.