Got my rebuild done and the trucks up and running. It's running a little rough, think the valves need to be adjusted. I put in a RV cam and I'm getting a lot of top end noise.*

Also seems to have a pretty rough idle. I'm thinking I missed a vacuum line when I swapped the weber on..

Anyone in the Puget sound area of Washington and willing to share some knowledge with a newb?

 

Can Be alot of reasons

It might be timing.. Valves might need to be adjusted....Weber needs to be tuned..... check these things first then let us know...Cool 22R btw

 

color contrast looks sweet!

 

Doesnt the diaphragm/valve by the distributor need a vaccum? I kno on the 20R its something for higher RPMs or somesh!t like that

 

Thanks for responses. I timed the motor, it's a little advanced. I don't know where it should be at. Manual said to look at emission sticker under the hood. No sticker anywhere on the truck with any timing remarks. May have been one on driver side door jam, but it hasn't survived the last 30 years.

So, checking compression, oil pressure and re-adjusting valves tomorrow. Would like to time it again. Anyone know where the ignition timing should be running a 268* / 425 cam? Even in the ball park would be helpful.

I have a vacuum from distributor to carb. Will post updated pic tomorrow, maybe one of you will spot something I have overlooked..

Cheers

 

I'd set the valves to .007 intake and .011 exhaust and advance the timing till it rattles under load and back it off till it shuts up and snug it down.

 

seems very... Nostalgic... ish.

 

Updated photo..

Let me know if you guys see anything noticeably wrong..

Didn't get a chance to adjust the valves today. Talked with Engnbldr, who I got the cam from and he said noise could be that the valve adjustment is too loose and or worn adjustment screws. New screws will be in tomorrow, tackle both at same time..

Carb seems to be tuned in. Maybe some carb cleaner/ fuel additive to clean up how it revs. Sputters a bit.

Got it timed today at about 6 advanced and seems to be doing ok. I'll know more when I drive it.


Believe this was attached to factory carb? Do I need to keep this or can I delete it?


Also wasn't sure where to route these lines so I capped them for now. Wasn't planning on running a weber when I pulled the old motor and vacuum line connections were pretty obvious. Now I am kicking myself for not labeling EVERYTHING!

As always comments and suggestion appreciated, thanks guys.

 

Looks good bro!

Perhaps a gold stripe on the valve cover?

 

Shore is purdy...only thing i notice missing is the heavy coat of oil that came standard on the 22R...

 

Today was a bad day.. New adjuster screws and valve adjustment got the top end sounding nice and quiet.. That helped me to hear a slight knock.. That got much worse while trying to pinpoint... Pulled the pan and found glitter... #1 rod bearing.. WTF!

So, one step forward, two steps back...

 

ouch sorry to hear that

 

I think if I read all posts somewhere along the line you said you talked to the engine builder. Well I would talk to him again and ask WTF im spinning rod bearings on a rebuilt engine so maybe someone didnt torque them to spec!!

 

Oh Wow!

Dude my heart sunk when you said that I've so been there...

 

#1 doesn't spin unless there was a problem with, improper machine work, bad parts or assembly. In my experience #2 and #3 will spin when there is a lack of oil/oil pressure.


Did the bearing spin or just come apart?

 

Unfortunitly I didn't get the crank machined or bearings through Engnbldr. I know the bearings were installed properly, they were all cleaned, clearances were checked, torqued.. The only thing I can't stand by is the crank and rods. Purchased off craigslist, supposidly all rebuilt ready for assembly. Had a local machine shop measure crank before I ordered bearings. Maybe it was out of balance or.. I am human, perhaps a made a mistake..

Looked like it spun, I don't have a trained eye for that kind of thing but I know enough to make that my best guess. also, has a new oil pump but the oil light comes on until motor gets up to about 2800 rpm. Any thoughts? Also should note bearing only lasted about 5 minutes. Seems with everything coated in plenty of lith grease it should have lasted longer even with low pressure?? Trying to get pressure gauge to see where my oil psi is at.


So I have pulled the crank from the original motor and took it to a guy that has done a lot of work on my VW stuff and that I trust to do it right. He's going to grind and balance the crank and have it back to me on Thursday. He's also going to order bearings to match.


Now my problem is the mess. For those of you that have had this happen, am I better off using my old block? ( nothing wrong with it just needs a cleaning and cylinders honed ) or if cleaned as good as I can get it while still in the truck and if I flush it several times, can I run the setup I have in there now?

As much as it would suck to have to start over, so would doing this again if I can't get it clean. Guess I just don't know how far the metal chunks have spread. How much faith should I have in the sump screen?

 

Wow no oil pressure till 2800 rpm? Holy crap no wonder the bearings didn't last... Did you pack the oil pump with grease/vasaline or at least coat everything on oil when you put it together? I've seen them not prime when put together dry.

As for the block the engine you just built was bored, hot tanked etc correct or just honed and put back together? If it had the full monty then just put a crank kit in it but flush out the oil passages with solvent while it's all apart so you know they aren't blocked.

Also was the crank machined when it was put together? I've seen the oil passages in the crank be blocked and run a bearing dry too.

 

The pump was coated in oil when assembled, everything was, or assembly lube.
As for the crank, not sure if the oil passages were cleared, I didn't have that work done, PO did.

Thanks for all the insight. Would have done things differently for sure. Mainly I would have started from scratch instead of buying someone elses "rebuilt" motor.

 

By chance were the crankshaft oil galley plugs pulled out and not reinstalled?

 

Nook, were you stalking me today?assume you are referring to the one on the bottom of the block about mid way?

That was one of the first things I noticed today when i was looking at tbe old block contimplating starting all over. The block was missing all of it's plugs when I got it. Noticed the front and back plugs were gone when I pulled my motor. Almost forgot the one behind timing cover.. Didn't even notice the bottom one until today..

So is that my problem? Is that why I have no oil preassure? And the spun bearing?.. I was pretty mad at myself today when I noticed it.