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"Just spent all night trying to fix the truck.
No Bueno. #3 intake valve is being weird. Valve is touching the rocker arms before the stud can. If I put the stud against the valve stem, it opens the valve prematurely.

And my timing is WAY OFF.

broke status...
see what you guys think?

my crankshaft pulley slipped, so I had to make an "impromptu" TDC mark. When the camshaft dot is straight up, is that TDC or is the dot on the bolt thing itself?
"


I was doing valve lash adjustment. All 7 but #3 intake is ****ed up. If I took the adjusting thing from #3 intake rocker and matched it with the other 3intake valves and installed it, it opens the valve early... I don't get it. When #4 is closed, I put .007" on it. I take the adjuster out of #3 and the valve thing is touching the rocker arm. IDK wtf is going on.

 

Fireballs on command, though. Timing is way the **** off.

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Is this a problem your having with your truck or a friend of yours on face book ?

 

Mine


Also the "stud" is the adjuster screw.

 

Okay well your right about the dot on the cam gear that's tdc . We're u able to get your crank pully and key back to tdc as well . Or any update of your findings

 

if the keyway (the little positioning nub) on the crank has broken or spun i suggest fixing that first cuz its gonna be pointless trying to time (especially trying to start n run the truck) the vehicle. the mark on the cam gear should be positioned very slightly to the left of the tdc mark (on the rocker arm assy) -is what im told to time it.

also on a side note, check the crank "damper" -the rubber type insert that is inside the pulley itself. if its bad, it will spin somewhat freely giving u an inaccurate reading of the timing mark on the pulley.

 

The rubber itself slipped, not the keyway, thank gawd.
I've tried to set the distributor as close to 11'o'clock as much as I can with the camshaft reading at TDC.


So the correct TDC on the cam is the cam gear, not the thing that bolts on to it? I'm waiting for your input as I go order myself a new harmonic balancer.
On second thought, where could I buy a quality harmonic balancer for a good price?
Idk if the Dorman one for $6x.xx is a good one.


Once I get the timing issue resolved, my main problem would be that #3 intake valve. All other adjusting screws are set lower and the #3 is set high.

 

there should be a small mark/dot on the the gear. n yes u can use the keyway on the gear but the cam bolt may be covering this. (unless bolt is removed) if still unsure of tdc, (assuming u have the valve cover off) u can remove spark plug #1 n stick a long screw driver or something so as u can see the piston travel, when all the way up and the #1 valves are closed =tdc.
the distributor -there should be a small dot mark on the spocket, and u can use the "line" or its probaby a casting mark on the shaft case/housing. basically just make sure the dot is facing straight up and the bolt hole for the dist is in the middle, then stab it in!
not sure about crank pulley brand. i heard MOOG products are pretty decent, but idk about their crank pulleys.

 

if anything, google can help. also, i found out a few tricks on youtube.

 

In my book it states the dowel pin on the camshaft should be at the 12 position. Remember, when at TDC #1 cylinder intake and exhaust, #2 cylinder intake, #3 cylinder exhaust rocker arms are all loose, and both intake and exhaust on #4 cylinder have tension on the rocker arms. Also, if you haven't touched your distributor, then it should be pointing at the #1 on the cap!

 

That's crazy.Ive never had that thing slip and didn't know it was even possible.Just curious what cam are you running that you set valve lash at.007.I also put the cam sprocket mark just a butt hair to the left of the mark on the rocker arms.

 

true -dowel pin straight up.

...true -says "timing mark" is slightly to the left of tdc/top mark.

 

Alright, I opened her up and I got the cam dowel at 12'o'clock and put the distributor rotor @ 12'o'clock before I inserted it. I got it in and put the distributor "in the middle" of it's adjusting range. Bolted it up in place and put the cap back on.

I pulled #3 spark plug out to look inside with a flash light (can't see ****) and saw no apparent damage to the piston.

I took a look at the valves again, it's effing weird. I have two videos from last night and tonight. I'll upload and show you guys what's up.

I have little clack going on under the valve cover. I think it's that #3. :/

So I put it back together, leaving the valves alone after inspecting them again. Couldn't find anything else from my lack of deep 22RE experience like some of you here who have rebuilt them before. I left the distributor where it's at. The engine was at TDC, I took a flat head and tapped a guesstimated TDC 0* mark on the outermost pulley.

Started it up and it was idling smoother than it was before (probably because my timing was dead on lol). Let it warm up, it's smoother than can be. Still has that clack from #3 I believe.

Is it common for 22RE's to stretch valves by any chance??

I'm running stock camshaft. some guys adjust it .008 intake and .012 exhaust according to the FSM, but some put .007 intake and .011 exhaust to slightly tighten up and reduce the valve train noise.


I'm going to order a new balancer. you can see the rubber on the backside falling apart

 

Valves would bend if they were stretched.Have you done a compression test and did you have the head all the way off.I've had a valve guide break and chip off.It made its way trough the valve and got smashed in between the head and piston but that was pretty loud.So you think its #3 exhaust valve making the noise?Try a looser valve lash.Could just be a worn surface on that #3 lifter or scorged cam.

 

I like my valves a little noisy so when a sound changes I pick up on it right away.

 

*#3 intake, lol.

The cam's surface looks good. :/

vid 1
22RE #3 Intake Valve First Look - YouTube

vid 2
22RE #3 Intake Valve Second Look - YouTube

Both videos are similar, but I'm trying to show that the adjuster screw on #3 intake rocker arm is much higher. I can't really get a feeler in between the adjuster screw and the valve. The second I start putting the adjuster screw in and tightening it (to the same position as the other intake valves), it pushes the valve open. It's weird.

 

Are you rotating the cam with every valve adjustment.From your vid it looks like you've got the #3 lobe on the cam to the opposite side. When I set valve lash I go down the line and put the lobe at an opposite 45 angle.ex: intake #1 lobe would be at a 45 degree down on the exhaust side and #1 exhaust lobe 45 deg. down on the intake side. You have to rotate the cam with each valve.A couple of them line up at the same time you just have to keep track.My bad if you know already just makin sure

 

that does look strange -that the #3 adjuster screw is that high up. maybe the valve seat is messed up or something inside the head/port of the intake. but ur saying it runs ok....? also, i've only seen this once before -check the valve guide (looking inside the valve spring) n see if its broken. not sure if its related to the unusually high valve position but its worth a shot.

sounds to me like if the valve is all the way that high, either the valve head or shaft is stretched, valve seat is damaged.

side note - is this the first time u've done valve adjustment on this vehicle? im only asking cuz maybe someone before u had replaced that adjuster screw so its sitting a little taller than the others. also, **** man, if u adjusted it right to spec, n its running good; then so what. gas it till it blows up! lol

 

Agree with tacobo670 maybe some one used that adjustment screw from something else. but if the valve guide cracked it still wouldn't come up higher because the valve seat would stop it.

 

i know nai . is wat im says is for reals umbee. F*k it man, if lash is good then its good.