You really can't go far without cutting the bed. The frames are already pretty flexy so you can't go far at all with a simple pipe notch. That would make the frame even less rigid.

I would say 2" max...... And that's for a full notch. If you're going to go through the hassle of doing that, just go all the way.

I have an 8" notch and I believe that it protrudes into the bed about 6".

 

That mechanism is called an L.S.P.V.(load sensing proportioning valve). The linkage that runs to the axle is responsible for telling the valve how much load is on the rear axle. The more Load, the lower the truck will sit and the more brake fluid pressure it will send to the rear brakes. If all of the available brake pressure went to the rear axle all the time, the brakes would lock up when there wasn't enough weight to provide traction, which would result in a tail spin.

If you are going to remove it you will need to get a manual proportioning valve, Wilwood makes a good one which is available with the Wilwood name on it or through the Summit Racing brand which is less expensive (same exact product).

One of the brake lines feeds the LSPV and one is a return line to the front brakes. You will need to remove the return line (not needed). Then the new PV mounts in between the feed line from the master cylinder and the rear axle. Adjust the new PV and you are in like Flinn (whoever that is).

I'll post some pics as soon as I can...

 

Here we go...





You can see where I mounted my new proportioning valve, it's the silver thing hiding under everything else. Also, the braided brake line I bought is a little too long.

 

There is also a potential problem with just using a tee.
I believe that the master cylinder is a dual stage cylinder with a separate output for the front and rears. This is a redundant safety feature. If the front of the master cylinder were to go bad or you lost a front brake line, the rear would still get pressure or vica-versa. By teeing the front and rears together, you would lose all brakes except the e-brake.

Just a thought.

 

Nboost, There weren't that many questions.

No, I didn't reuse the stock shock locations. They mount to a set of shock studs that I welded to the axle housing. And yes they ride great. Remember though that as you add angle to the shock, it lessens the actual ability absorb bumps, It doesn't change the valve rate, but the "felt" absorbsion changes, so you may need a slightly stiffer shock.

I bought the kit from bagit.com I think, It was in pieces, which I prefer, it allows me to custom fab it. It makes for a cleaner install.

 

Sorry man, what are you asking?