as byker asked earlier... he said what write-up i would do next. ive been doing the little mod writ-ups per peoples requests to better explain a few things and from what i can tell have been to good use.

what other kind of tech type write ups do you guys wanna see or think would be a good idea?

 

Or custom projects that aren't too tough, like door panels or seat swaps. I know you've done plenty of 4runner parts swap for inside and out. I can probably post some up too. Do we have a section for them or were they getting stickie? Or are they helpful til they're lost?

 

Hopefully this could be a big free for all questionaire / super help thread.

I'm sure we all have a few things going on here.
personally, I have the window I'm trying to get seated into the rubber/ metal attachment that goes into my window regulator. I'm not sure what's the best way to get it fully seated in there so i can retract and raise my window without it angling and causing excess friction, requiring two hands to operate a window without added stress on the components (mainly the regulator with its thin metals)


Also, I may be ordering a urethane bushing kit from Energy Pro soon.
My alignment is set at 1* camber, least caster and as close as zero toe, BUT I have a .3* thrust angle to the right and it's causing me to go nuts. I'd like to fix that issue, I don't like pointing my steering wheel 1'o'clock to drive straight, plus uneven road surfaces are magnified in the driving dynamics.
Is there anything possibly gone wrong in my rear end that could cause this? I have a 8" V6 2WD axle in the rear with 3" drop blocks. I had my driveshaft shortened, assuming that it was pushing my axle backwards on the right side. I got it shortened, and it helped a little bit. Would worn leaf spring bushings really cause that much of a difference that the right side is pushed back that much? If I stood by my right side, the wheel looks pushed backwards in the wheel well.
The rear axle and leaf spring is a special ball park. How do you tighten the U-bolts? It's a tricky one, tighten one side too much, too early, and it'll be mounted in a crooked awkward position.
I have a hex socket cap bolt and nylon lock nut holding my spring pack together. The cap is perfectly fitting in the bottom hole of the block.
As for the blocks themselves, I put the one with the misaligned hole on the left side, hopefully letting the axle angle towards the center.
nothing seems to help.
Maybe it's time to put $100 into a bushing kit for my truck which includes front control arms, swaybar, leaf springs?

here's a quick idea, a short impromptu how to on the H6054 sealed beam replacements?

how about showing people how to properly mount lug nuts and torque them down, not being lazy and using air guns (improper torque and the high speed can damage threads due to debris in the threads)

Or maybe bed install with those shims, how to get it to sit straight and even like factory or better.

just a couple of ideas and thoughts I have in mind.

I need to make enclosures for speakers and sub in my xcab, but I want to fit 6.5's in the side cubbies and a 12" under the driver's rear seat.

 

ill think of something here soon. i SHOULD have done a damn writeup on the power steering swap we did on mark's 90 last weekend. only took about a couple hours and im sure allot of people would like a good visual aid before tackling it and see what all is needed.

now that i think about it, macrib HAS a power steering swap that he's had in the garage for the past year or more... still needs to go on to the truck. ill see if i cant talk him into doing it soon and ill document it for a writeup!

Nam, when you did the drop blocks, did your rearend have the stepped pin holes and rubber cushion pads that go between the leafs and spring pad on the axle?? ive come to find that if not reused or sleeved to make up the difference in the block pin size, your rear axle will never align and your front alignment will suffer to no end... i run into this issue allot with the third gen trucks when i drop them.

 

What does the stepped pin holes look like?
I know for sure that I took that leaf alignment block off when I threw the 8" axle on.
The rubber pad with the "spacer" that's a part of it, I put that on the bottom of the leafs, between it and the damper plate.

mind showing me an example? thanks man. I figured we could collaborate small information here.

 

The suspension ideas and PS are good ideas. The bed shimming I can cover, since mine needs to be readjusted anyways. Maybe ill throw some inside tie downs and top rail protector into that, I've got some parts waiting to go into mine. And I can do a couple variations of H4 housing swaps. My dodge has 6054 7x6"s and my yota has the 5-3/4" rounds so that should give both shapes the idea. I could do a small write up on hilux lighting mods in general I suppose. My tails I chromed the insides of to be brighter.

Any other ideas guys?

 

You guys might be better off doing your blocks like I did. I had some DJM angled 4" cast aluminums. My axle perches are a bit narrower than their open top shape. So they broke. I replaced them. Those broke. I cut the top section off til the solid flat that's about half way down. Then I drilled the center hole out to 3/8" all the way through it. Used a grade 8 bolt through the leafs and blocks. Makes about a 4.5" block with the angle retained. Then I had a 4wd shop make me some ubolts from larger bar stock. Barely fit the shock plate holes. I haven't had any axle wrap or ubolt issues since.

 

I think I covered it in my build but not as a seperate mod. Or if I did it wasn't stickied or in the tech section.

 

I just got home from driving a friend around looking for his jeep his girl took out.
I can definitely say that my rear end is thrusting out. I stood back there and it's easy to see that the rear right wheel isn't centered in the wheel well. Bed distance from cab to bed is minimal, the wheel is still pushed back.

Is there a certain way to bolt it down?

I'll probably go to the drive shaft center with the truck on the ground or axle on jacks, that way it'll simulate a pre-loaded axle. Hopefully loosening the carrier bearing assembly will allow it to "scoot" forward and let the axle relax in place. hopefully so, this is driving me nuts.

 

ill see if i can bring up an example... its kinda hard to explain unless yer looking at it...

 

I want to see a welded diff done so I can do mine