What kind of engine is this?

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by ChickenTaco, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    I need to get new bearings for the motor in the truck I'm buying. It's out of a Supra apparently. But nobody seems to know exactly what motor this is or where I can get parts for it :/ Also, it is a straight six.

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  2. DionTDE

    DionTDE Addict

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  3. thundering02

    thundering02 Addict

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    3 liter inline 6 says 7m per the valve cover style
     
  4. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    I was gunna say that too lol
    it fits.
     
  5. garagedoorman

    garagedoorman Addict

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    I think those are the turbo valve covers. The N/A covers didn't have the red stripes
    Also on the passenger side of block about 5 inches back is a flat spot with 7M engraved in it. May be behind oil sludge. It will not though say weather its turbo or not.
    And parts are everywhere. What all do you have?
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2011
  6. Robert m

    Robert m Addict

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    its a good engine but, watch for a blown head gasket. ones fixed with ARP head studs, and a good gasket they will run a long time with basic maintenance.
     
  7. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    Right now I have everything but the turbo for it. It was already in the truck and running but spun a bearing apparently. I will be replacing the gaskets anyways so that is not an issue. Should be pretty cool. I'm going to try to find a turbo for it. It had twin turbos on it, then a single, then none. Lol. Should be a pretty awesome motor for my 90 pick up!
     
  8. planemos

    planemos Toyotaholic

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    Yea I have an 88 Supra and it is turbo. And it has those same valve covers. I believe you can take off the valve cover and look at the top of the head bolts. And I believe that if they are ARP headstuds then it will say ARP on the top. At the very least check the torque on the head bolts. Be aware that head bolts can stretch. And that they should never be re used. Oh and if you want to find out a shyt ton of info about the 7M then go to supraforums.com or even supramania.com
     
  9. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    I don't have the money to do a full rebuild. So if I can get past this in the cheap I will be happy. I hate working on engines Lol.
     
  10. ChickenTaco

    ChickenTaco Enthusiast

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    How do I tell the difference between the 7MGE and the 7MGTE? I just need to know if the parts are different and if the transmission will be the same?
     
  11. planemos

    planemos Toyotaholic

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    I usually look at the intake manifold. And I look for a turbo. There are quite a few subtle differences.
     
  12. kamesama980

    kamesama980 Addict

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    That is a non-turbo motor (2 openings in the manifold to the Y pipe then throttle). Turbo (and cressida version) has the throttle body right on the manifold. Pretty sure the valve covers are for the non-turbo supra too. you can tell by the PCV pipe and openings as well as the notch for the intake pipes. If it's had a turbo (or twins) on it, it's probably had the crap beat out of it and needs a rebuild.

    Differences between 7Ms
    3 basic versions in america: turbo, non-turbo supra, and non-turbo cressida.
    -Block itself is the same. Turbo has oil squirters to cool the bottom of the pistons.
    -early supras (like 2 years) have a 6M crank with fewer counterweights. later ones have more weights and a lower redline.
    -Oil pump is larger on the turbo to accommodate the turbo and oil squirters.
    -Oil pan is different between the cressida and supra. turbo/non in the supra it's the same.
    -heads are the same
    -cams are slightly different, more duration in the non-turbo because of overlap. butt-dyno improvements swapping NA cams into a turbo but I think it's more of less-worn lobes and hope. you'll lose some boost through the overlap as much as you'll gain from scavenging
    -Intake manifold: NA supra has the ACIS (resonant tuning) Y-shaped intake. Turbo and cressida have a basic intake but the turbo has a check valve in the IACV and different vacuum lines to the throttle body for emissions stuff. EGR is also slightly different.

    The headgasket is a problem because toyota changed half a dozen things about the head to make it run hotter, switched from asbestos to supposedly weaker graphite gaskets, and didn't change the bolt torque. If/when you do the rebuild, drill the coolant passage behind cyl 6, thoroughly clean (or remove) the EGR, and make sure all the tiny 1/16th" coolant passages between the exhaust ports are clear. Use a MHG or good quality OE one (not ebay special) and torque NEW head bolts to 75-78 ftlbs (rather than 58). ARP studs should be torqued to 90 with their lube
     

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