For clarification, I'm the stone that will be tackling two birds with my truck that popped up recently.

Today, as I was finally able to drive my truck around for the first time in a while, I took it to drop off some mail at the post office, go to the gym (no A/C and 115+ degree heat, save my soul ) and pick up some thicker oil to change for the truck (10W-40 to test, as it was the second heaviest the local autozone had and conveniently 30$ too as that was all the cash that was in my wallet at the time) However, upon coming back home, already did see some sort of puddle underneath the truck at autozone but i didn't give it a second though, i started seeing puddles underneath that were actively dripping and that's not good-A/C ruled out since it doesn't work So i smelled, tasted, and pondered on it and after seeing the good-sized mess that was both on the front grille nooks and underneath, something in the coolant system finally gave out from age and these oven temperatures. Don't have pictures right now since it's late, but I will make a write up on my findings tomorrow. Cya till tomorrow folks

 

Ugh dude that sucks! Hopefully its nothing too in depth that needs to be done.

side note you're wild for tasting truck juices off the floor lol

 

Welp, found the cause of my automatic coolant drainage from a pinhole in the lower radiator hose.

Took it off with relative ease and thankfully i have skinny arms and a plethora of wrenches to get the hose clamps off!


In addition to this, i also noticed my thermostat housing oozing some goop of sorts, not sure if its wax or some other foreign substance


anywho, its hot and i spilled about a third of the coolant that was in the radiator on my garage floor so im going to take a break and see if theres a bulk equivalent of this hose at a nearby parts store, worst case ill buy it from toyota themselves. Ill throw some green coolant back in it for the time being, didnt look like any concern so far.

 

Hmm, seems like locating a 2WD Lower Rad hose is proving rather difficult.
OEM Part # for anyone curious: 16572-35011 HOSE, RADIATOR, OUTLET

Various places state similar hoses that appear to look like the upper hose ARE the lower hose too... seems OEM is discontinued but i might squeeze the trigger on a formed hose somewhere, worse case one of those flexible ones from a parts store. I'll update on my findings soon.

 

we got a winner for the lower radiator hose (maybe)! local NAPA had almost the exact replacement but its a tad bit different, hopefully should still fit with some coaxing... will report on my findings soon.

 

finally sized up the hose yesterday noon, took a bit since its larger than OE but at least it was available. only concern is, since its a bit larger, it has a slight kink in the bend from the lower radiator to wherever in the block it goes. is that fine or should i expect issues?

had to cut about 8 inches of hose total to get a satisfactory fit too...

here it installed. had to unplug that connector on the right just above the hose to wiggle it into position, noteworthy it is quite oily inside and out if anyone knows what that goes to, do let me know too.

another picture for another angle of refference.

 

Right, so I'm gonna be experimenting with some oil weights on the horizon of my next oil change, going with 10W-40, wondering if anyone might know if I should splurge on an OEM filter from Toyota for the best quality presumeably? Don't want any hiccups with the lube system...

 

splurged and got an OE filter, seems larger than what I remember,comparing to a filter also from toyota from autozone, is bigger better??

in other news, got around to an oil change from driving all over the valley recently. got dirty so i decided to clean the drain plug and saw this inside...



!!! definetly not good, but then again, who knows last time the drain plug was cleaned? a surprise and an unwelcome one too...

wonder if it might be related to the oil pump, since on a first start, the engine will fire off and the oil pressure light will go off after its been ran for a couple seconds with some audible rattling... need to remedy this ASAP!! i will also feel around inside the bottom of the pan thru the drain bolt hole and hopefully HOPEFULLY not find anything similar.... will report back soon.

 

Whoops, forgot the photo of the different oil filters. interestingly, both seem to have the same mounting circumference, only the one from the dealer is larger maybe a supercerded part?

 

screw it, went for the smaller filter for the time being just to get this oil change dine, also made another discovery in the form of "blow by" according to the "Oil fill cap test". wonderful...

 

Bigger just means more capacity for a bit longer life. I would've flushed the oilling system with that much gunk or pulled the pan and cleaned it.. that stuff is death to filters and galley ways.

 

Would be a wise idea to check the pan, did try to squeeze my pinky finger into the drain plug hole but I couldn't feel the bottom due to the distance. never pushed the oil for 10,000 miles on any of my vehicles due to the life-reducing heat. Thanks for the info on the filter though, I'll use it on the next oil change in... 1,500 miles.

 

Another bird to take down with another stone... the night before last night I was heading home after taking the truck out for a spin, and all of a sudden I started hearing this unusual farting/slapping/gurgling?/rapid clicking noise from the passenger's side front, under the hood? or somewhere around there, either between the wheel well to the area under the glovebox. From my observation, it only seems to happen when the truck is warm and idling which is really weird for some reason... any clues perhaps?? I've looked everywhere with a flashlight and couldn't see anything loose or disconnected. Recently only did replacing of the thermostat gasket (very messy, but I got it done) and the lower radiator hose... Obviously took off the air cleaner but all three hoses for it are on tight. Sounds like a vacuum diaphragm but I can't be too sure honestly, pretty stumped. Thought it might've been the starter gear conflicting with the flywheel, but I restarted it a couple times and don't think it was that, unless? Any ideas?

Bit of a big video so hopefully this works, about 6 minutes long but you can hear the sound really well in the first half
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6naw...3854.mp4?rlkey=pvf296przcsen71eb7unro92y&dl=0

 

Another update, it seems like the choke got stuck... as in it's running pretty richly and roughly. Upon giving it some gas and letting off the throttle, the truck seems to stumble, or sometimes die outright. Another thing to fix, but hey, it's 40 years old so i'll give it some slack. Thankfully this happened in my driveway and not on the road!

 

To add on, looking at the Choke Breaker and Choke system right now in my FSM. Seems like an "L" Terminal comes off the alternator to heat up the bimetallic coil that opens the choke. Will do some more digging on this and report what I can find.

 

Also can anyone view the video link I attached? Can't tell from other perspectives if its shareable or not. Dud update it though.

 

In my journey of exploring the choke system, I decided to first test the CB (Choke Break) system and tested it according to the FSM. Sucked on said hose, with and without the restrictor device, choke plate didnt budge a milimeter. Got a vacuum testing kit and applied vacuum to the jet, 25+ inHg and the choke plate doesnt seem to slightly open by itself oddly enough. Had to take off the Restrictor device as it was assumeably leaking between that or the hoses I loosened. The Restrictor seems to be doing its job independently. Obviously the choke plate should move but it isn't, wondering what to do for that then...

Other tests I will do, now that at least one test showed a bad result, are the inspection of the automatic choke heater, and the choke opener system. Choke heater seems faily straight forward, however since my ambient temperatures are well above 68 degrees Farenheit, i dont know if that would affect the resistance reading significantly. Anywho, if anyone has any input I'd be glad to hear it, and i will continue my journey in fixing this darn choke.

EDIT: Conducting the vacuum test on the jet WITHOUT the Restrictor proves the choke plate DOES move about a few milimeters, which appears to be okay according to the FSM. Mustve done the test wrong somehow, but the vacuum test seems OK! Seems to be either the Restrictor might be leaking somehow, or the two hoses that go to it might be not seating right on the Restrictor. Tested both little hoses and both seemed to get the choke plate to move so it either is the Restrictor, or improper seating and thus sealing from the two hoses.

List of To Do then:
Choke Break: OK
Choke Opener: Not done yet
Choke Heater: Not done yet

 

Yo, that ticking sounds like the flywheel coming into contact with the starter wheel..

It's definitely a metallic vibration.. but it's not the valve train. That doesn't spin that fast at idle.. the only thing I can think about that can make a tick that interval is the flywheel. You might Wana wait till it cools down when checking under the intake mani

 

Good information, I was thinking that too since it sounded really unusual. Odd that it only happened in the videos and once before I recorded it. Definetly will take that to my local Toyo mechanic for him to inspect it. Also, what do you mean by looking under the intake manifold for?

 

I'm tryna remember if your engine has any metal shields that could be tapping something in the rotating assembly..

The intake manifold is the aluminum piece that your carburetor sits on.. air passes thru the carb, through the manifold into the engine chamber. The starter is under that behind the oil filter. I think these also have a thin plate between the tranny and engine.. hoping it's one of these since the only thing else I can think of are inside the transmission itself.. that's last resort tho.