Alright fellers and fellerettes, it is party time in the engine room! I need some advice, what-to-do's and what-not-to-do's when it comes to building this engine.

Here is my goal, make a low cost and reliable engine that makes decent power.

I currently have a running engine, Pace Setter long tube header, OEM rebuild kit (including OE replacement pistons .040" over), APEXi AFC for slight air fuel adjustments and all of the tools and knowledge necessary to assemble an engine.

What I am after from you guys, help me come up with a parts list of what I would need to get in order to make decent power on 93 pump gas reliably. Money isn't really an issue, I just don't want to spend a lot of money on it.

This engine will be dyno tuned on a Mustang Dyno at 0ft above sea level when done. So there will be proven results with whatever we all decide to do.

 

Is the Nippon Racing cylinder head worth it?

Are the Kieth Black Hypereutectic pistons good?

Any throttle body upgrades?

Are there ITB's for the 22RE?

 

Do any parts off of a Lexus LS400 work with the truck?

 

How big would you like to go with this.Do you want to keep it EFI?That nippon racing head is just a bare stock head right?Just googled it so i'm not sure.

 

If there's one thing I'm learning, reading this forum, it's that anything works if you want it to badly enough.

 

apexi sfac does not work with the 22re

apexi is 0 to 5 volt 22re is not

 

AFC is no go, check.

I am not wanting anything real crazy. Higher compression, ARP as much as I can, cam, throttle body (ITB's if possible), shave head/block(?, balance everything and generally make it as bulletproof as possible. I want to increase power and keep it reliable using the EFI system. I plan to daily drive this truck after I am done and use it to haul my motorbikes to the track, so anything that makes it eat fuel or makes it unreliable / hard to keep running right is not what I want.

Is there anything I need to know about removing the smog stuff? SC has no inspection and I want it all gone.

 

I have a running LS400 parts car in the back is why I ask.

 

Kieth black is well known to say the least . If your going all motor bump up the compression shave the crank a ported polished head larger valves pic a decent cam that suits the trucks use back it up with a clutch and flywheel would make a nice daily driver and then again building a reasonable turbo kit is an option to

Parts car just swap it done deal

 

I want to keep it 4cyl.

If I am going to swap a v8 into it, then I will just build a LS2 for it and be done. I don't want that though. If I want to go retarded fast, I have a motorcycle.

 

Heard that ^ two wheels for life

 

Get a LC engine , good power,reliable & a dam good company to deal with!!

20,000 + miles on my Pro Street EFI--- !!!!

 

I want to build it myself.

I build engines for other people, I don't like not building my own engine.

currently have a Dakota RT 408 stroker nitrous engine I am building for a friend sitting in the garage

 

I've never really heard of these motors having issues, with the exception of the timing chain going out, and losing head gaskets. But if you use ARP studs, like i believe you had mentioned, and do what Scrub88 mentioned, you will have a rightfully quick truck, that will be just as dependable as it is in stock form

 

So, if I

ARP studs
Kieth Black Hypereutectic pistons (9.7:1)
Double valve springs/good retainers
decent cam
oversize valves with guides
p&p the head
knife edge crank
use long tube header with decent exhaust

What throttle body should I use? Can I use a supra TB? If so, what year(s)?

Should I upgrade to a double roller chain setup? Is it worth it?

What about oiling?

What AFM do I use? Can I use one off of a 94 LS400 as an upgrade?

How do I tune this beast when I am done? AFM tweaks and fuel pressure?

 

Sounds to me like a pretty major upgrade. I have the studs and they do me good.dual valve springs will be smart.With the knife edged crank you should get the after market oil pump.dual chain upgrade not a must but smart.I use the short stack headers for better top end performance.With all the up top upgrades your computer will be thrown off.My nephew has a similar set up with an SDS system. With after market injectors for more juice.I believe he uses a 280 or 283 cam.Stock throttle body with no MAS just a short simple air filter.Pretty simple to tune with the SDS.His truck is pretty game I must say.this pic was before the headers.Also short stack Headmans with a Flowmaster

 

SDS system? What is that?

 

if you mean the double row timing chain, absolutely. instead of replacing timing chains at 90k-ish miles, you go 200k+ between each replacement if you're not doing hard launches at every other stoplight.

It's also guaranteed to keep your timing consistent for longer before the chain stretches. If you want bulletproof, the double row is a must.

Also, don't knife edge your crank. Here's a good explanation why, about 1/3 of the way down the first post
There's a lot of great gems in there from someone who's been working with 22r engines for many more years than i've been able to drive. I suspect a lot of it you already know.

 

Rounding the leading edge of a lightened crank can have the same effect. It all really depends on the engine and how the crank rotates through the oil.

FYI, your crank does not slosh through the oil in the pan. If it did this, it would create something called cavitation. That is why we have an oil pump and high pressure oil passages. "Slinger" engines have gone by the wayside for automotive and are really only seen in small engines.

Look at it like this, take a bowl of pudding and get an electric mixer. Turn that mixer on high and slowly move it in a small circle while it is in the pudding. What do you notice happening? The pudding is not penetrating the beaters, instead the pudding is leaving a void where the beaters are. Your oil does something very similar in your engine and I don't see how his explanation would actually work.

I feel a lighter crank and a close fitting crank scraper would work better for making power.

 

Simple Digital System EM-5