saw this video and think it is awesome.. just need a big enough tank to dump whole toyotas in! lol but seriously, im thinking about making a frame big enough to fit a tailgate and using a heavy plastic or pond liner to make a tank to hold the liquid.. then would be able to do the bottoms of fenders, or edges of doors that are common to rust as well.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhTZkvkivDQ here is most of what the guy says if you dont want to watch, slow pc, etc. etc. it is a 12 V battery charger capable of at least 2 amps constant current... and a tank big enough to hold a part needing of rust removal.. sodium carbonate( known as washing boost or washing soda, video shows arm and hammer "super washing soda") at 1 teaspoon of soda to every pint of water... hook up the negative clamp/lead to the part (submerged in the video, don't know if it matters), and the positive lead/clamp to a steal rod that is set into the water.. not touching the part obviously.. and then he sets the charger to a constant 2 amp ... you will start to see bubbles, it is hydrogen forming and outgassing so do in a well ventillated area.. and NO SMOKING.. or ginding, torching, welding just in case.. and it might take forever.. he had a control arm in there for 48 hours.. smaller parts won't take as long.. i would just leave it until it turned black where the rust was. i just googled it, TONS of info out there.. but i never knew about it.. so hopefully more people will be enlightened to this simple way of assuring rust removal.. if not, i guess it's a refresher.
Just buy some Rust-Mort #69508 @ any auto paint supply. Kills the rust & turns it into a black primer!! Can use over any welded areas or on bare metal.
i haven't tried that stuff yet, is it a phosphoric acid kind of chemical?i will have to check out the shop we get our paint from at work. if it were just about chemicals, i generally use ospho, probably the same kinda crap, converts to iron phosphate, or whatever. I have had very good results with that. The method with electrolysis, from what i understand and have researched, completely removes it. After cleaning the part it is BARE METAL... you clean off the black stuff with a scotch pad or something like that and it is completely bare metal that you need to treat so it doesn't flash rust on you it is so bare.. where the other chemical stuff usually converts and "tightly bonds" so the air and moisture don't mix and therefor prevent/slow down rust.. But, what if there's a lil pin hole that didn't get enough penetration because it was slightly deeper then the rest of the panel/piece that was finished, as we all know rust doesn't exactly leave a smooth surface with no nooks and crannies to hide in.. so it pays to try a little harder to get as much off as possible first for these other methods. all the chemical stuff that converts to it to the black "primer" has the potential to only be topical... so if you still have a little rust underneath that the chemical didn't soak into or convert... it comes back.. and you can't tell because it is underneath the black ready for paint coating as per instructions.. which is just one reason rust sucks so badly. the instructions on the chemical rust stuff tells you to remove as much rust as possible loose scale, etc.for these reasons.. so after you do all that work it could still come back.. with the electrolysis the part itself basically sheds the rust.. it would be good to have some of that chemical stuff as most can be used on bare metal to protect it as truck action said, or an oil, or some metal etching primer ready, or whatever else.. but as for how cheap it is and how well it is acclaimed to work, i can't wait to try it.. along with that, my sand blaster and some ospho to get parts of the bed and cab i obviously can't dip.. i should be all set.
