It's getting hot up in the bitch!!!! Making the switch from R12 to R134a. Going to use a retrofit kit. Should cost $50. Anyone use one yet? What are the steps? Remove all fittings, replace all fittings with kit. Run truck and shake the can. I should be set, right? Can't wait to burn a hole in the ozone with my R12! Skeet, skeet, skeet!!!!
Change the fittings, put a new dryer on it, pull a vaccum on it, oil charge it and gas it up with the R134 then drive it.
Going to have all new fittings & braided hose made! Can I switch to 134 @ that time??And change the drier to what? Every thing been empty for a few years now!
All i have ever done it vent the system, change fittings and charge. list is. 83 Subaru. 81 Toyota p/u 86 Pontiac parisian 83 Ford pickup 86 Chevy custom van. I have a new dryer for my 81, did not need it if anyone wants to buy it
So I think I did my **** right. Only changed the low side fittings cuz the high side fitting wasn't the correct one. Charge the **** and waste like 2 cans of 134A. Either way, it's colder. I'll buy another can of **** and charge it tomorrow. PS. I burned my f%$!@#^*()ing hands like 20 times.
3 cans is too much bro...I vaccumed mine out and charged it to factory specs..probably 1 and 1/2-3/4 can...over charging can effect the system and it wont seem as cold as it should be...
Your better off sticking with R12 if possible but the conversion to 134a is fine, it just won't cool as well and may require periodic topping off to keep the system full. If your having new hoses made make sure they are the barrier style hose suitable for 134, the old r12 rubber hoses will leak over time. The fittings on the compressor need changed to the 134 style, you should also change any seals and Orings to the 134 compatible ones, most of the new universal receiver/dryers are compatible with either refrigerant, a stock OEM one might not be. The compressor needs to be pulled and flushed of the old oil, R12 uses a mineral oil, 134 uses a Pag oil or you can use ester oil which supposedly is compatible with either or. The 134 runs at higher pressures than r12 and its molecular makeup is different so thats why it has a tendency to leak out of the old seals, hoses and such, used in the R12 units. Also the higher pressure mean higher heat which is dissapated through the condensor in front of the radiator, the toys have a pretty small condensor so it has a hard time removing the heat which is why they tend to not cool as well. There is also r12 compatible refrigerants available like freeze 12 and many other names, never used any so can't say how well they work, but are designed as a drop in for r12 systems so you don't need to change flush or anything, but a word of caution, most are propane based and having a sealed system filled with flammable propane based refrigerant might make for some excitment if the right conditions occur and something broke and sparks were present if ya know what I mean.
