sorry if i keep posting to much just trying to get some info i would just like to know why my rear hops when launching wats going on with that i launch around 3k rpms pls help thanks
Most likely axle wrap. Its pretty common on leaf sprung vehicles with blocks or that are mono leafed. A ladder bar system would probably fix it.
I have the same problem as well. Put new shocks on about a year ago. Haven't removed any leafs and put in 3" blocks.
A ladder bar is a 3 point brace that allows the axle to articulate in it's normal range of travel but keeps pinion angle. 2 points on axle end...one above the axle and one below, the other end attached to the frame or cross member. Easily fab'able. Edit:
What do u thinks going on?....I race track n street race plus it's my daily and Tuesday night here on guam we had some private runs and when I launched first it's like my rears trying to stick but hops first gear So in other words 4 linked rear end?....wow I do not have a welder lol And I don't have time plus it's my daily...or should I try angle drop blocks?
No links, you'll just need one ladder bar. I've seen them made to where they fit right next to the drive shaft and use the diff bolts to attach to the axle housing. Score....This is what's happening, why it hops & looses traction, and the proper fix, all in one video. No more axle wrap. Ladder bar complete - YouTube No welder just means you'll need to buy one and install it rather than make a custom one for your application.
Silly me I should have known what a ladder bar was. I've always heard the term "traction" or "track bars". Same use and terminology.
Little different. There are 2 kinds of "traction bars". One is the "slapper traction bar" which replaces the spring plate and extends forward. There is a little snubber that hits the front of the leaf spring to keep the rear from rotating. Yeah, it's a crappy description; just google Slapper traction bar The other kind of traction bar is kind of like having just the two bottom links of a four-link. The disadvantage of a ladder bar setup for the street is that it acts like GIANT anti-roll bar and you might end up with a very slide (sideways) happy rear (which would be good for drifting...).
The other form of traction bars are usually added under the springs and just limit how far the axle can wrap. JEGS Performance Products 64405, JEGS Universal Leaf Spring Traction Bars | JEGS Performance Products But one big issue with the above picture is that the ladders shown either need shackles, or they should be the same length as the spring packs. Different lengths will induce bind, reducing the ride quality.
Something as simple as this will cure the hops. Once work slows down next month I'll be building a copy of it for my truck. I don't have hopping issues since I mono leafed and turned the overload around so the long end acts like slapper bars but I'd like to eliminate the possibility of future issues.
nice! ..... personally - i just clamped all 4 corners of the leaf packs. the ride is very stiff but the launches are hard and slingshot u right out of the hole. no hopping. i launch at 5k with slicks, hooks up super hard (with good slicks and heated up). only thing is, with that added grip and running an EFI setup, it will sometimes bog-down the truck on take-off =means the traction/grip is there, and no slip at all. these trucks are really light, especially in the rear. thats why some guys remove the stock fuel tank and add a fuel cell, mounted above the rear axle. also, relocating the battery to the LR corner of the bed. this "weight transfer" will aid in the launch of the vehicle, allowing the rear end to squat or sit down on a launch. pretty much, u want the front to lift and the rear to squat = weight transfer. anyone pls correct me if im wrong.
