Need some advice! I am guessing 1976-1979 model radiators would fit a 1975. Is this a safe assumption? Most sites do not have radiators for a 75 but have them for 76 and newer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would assume so, the 75 is the biggest Bastard of this vintage. It really shares little with the previous years. Is yours bad? Or are you looking for an upgrade? If possible you should retain the stock one and have it fixed at a radiator shop.
In my 77 with a 20r I got a 89-95 (I think) pickup all aluminum radiator off eBay. Top mounts work, but had to redrill the bottoms because top to bottom spacing was off about an inch. And lengthen the bottom hose Standardbyker helped me out with what years worked. I have a thread from when I did mine.
Good info first80. Yeah, I run 84-88 or 89-95 V6 models. Same hose locations as the 4cyl but often a thicker core. I don't even run a fan shround and most days I run about 165* on my water gauge. If it gets over 80* outside it will climb to 190* at red lights. It never goes over 200 unless I'm low on water. When I used to have a pretty built up 20r I couldn't keep underhood temps below 200 even with hood spacers and a 160 thermostat. The metal change allows for vastly faster heat exhange and also has more surface area and overall capacity. You will need to move the heater hose off the lower radiator spout to the driver side of the front cover plate. 84-95 trucks have a little manifold to swap for your cover plate. There's other heater routing options too that's just what I did. He is correct on the bolt holes. As for the lower hose itself I used a foot of 1.5" exhaust tubing (may have been 1.25") and just cut a new molded 78 hose and extended the upper and lower apart. Without the alternator in the way, a flex hose (built in spring type) would reach. But it gets bit by the alt pulley. So if you moved the alt to the pass side like some people do (away from exhaust heat and closer to batt/starter) then you could do that hose route. All in all, for the 80 bucks or so it takes to get a new rad, I don't bother with the old clogged brass junk. You'd spend more to make it a functional part that's less effective than the alloy.
I need to upgrade. I think my core is rusted out and from what I have read it can cost more money to fix than upgrade. Thanks!
