Okay, I have a full set of mmw jeebus arms and belltech spindles for my 92. I've got the passenger side of the suspension pulled already, and I'm ready to put the new stuff on, there is just one slight little problem. Are the upper arms the same(ie. can they be used on either side? They look fairly identical...) and how do I tell which lower arm goes on which side? There is a straight side and a slanted side to the lower arms, and the narrow part of the install shaft came installed on the slanted side. Looking at the suspension, and getting it to line up anything NEAR like the factory bits, it would appear that the slanted side goes forward, and the narrow side of the shaft goes to the rear(straight side). I just pulled the shaft apart and notice that it can be flipped to be installed that way. I just want to make sure I am doing this right before I tear something up.

 

Ok, this is how it goes on. Makes sense to me now. Including a fairly large pic. If you look REAL close you can also see a little bit of my 140 amp GM 1-wire install. These arms sure are pretty! Also, what is that tube that I'm using for jack stand mounts??? It only goes from one side to the other and doesn't hold anything up. It looks like it is tightening up the frame, at most. I'm thinking about unbolting it and building a pair of 1/4 plate flat mounts to replace them, and to mount a piece of 1x2 square frame tube between the frame rails. That would reinforce the frame just as well, and would give me about another inch of possible drop.

 

From what I remember when I had my fabtech prerunner arms on my truck there was no difference in upper arms. And that cross bar is there to protect the transmission. I would think putting some type of flat bar stock would to the trick.

 

UPPER ARMS
Your aftermarket uppers can be used on either side since they have a ball joint built into them. They will both be identical. Without having a pre 95 upper arm here, this is what I can tell you...on the 95.5-04 Tacoma the uppers look identical with the exception of the 4 holes on the end that the ball joint bracket bolts into being side specific.

It's hard to explain, but the pattern of the 4 bolt holes is slightly different, not symetrical, on the arm, making them side specific. At first glance they look identical, but a closer inspection of the bolt pattern will show they do have a specific side. Older DJM upper arms used to be side specific, but they started making the holes slotted instead of round, and these newer style arms could be used on either side.

LOWERS
You have yours correct, since they are obviously side specific. The ball joint will go toward the front of the truck, to allow for the proper caster of the spindle. Stock lowers are side specific too, because the tabs for the brake line and the plate that the bolt on the spindle hits at full turn of the steering wheel will need to be on the correct side.

 

So that bar only serves to protect the tranny, which is above frame level anyways? It doesn't reinforce/stiffen the frame or anything like that? If that is the case, I'm gonna pull it and set it aside to be used as jack-stand mounts. That thing is the next thing to hit the ground and what will be keeping me from laying out level. Everyone else talks about z-ing the frame to raise the engine crossmember, but that thing is higher up than that stupid bar...

And thanks Beefed! The only thing coming up for "MMW arms toyota install" on Google were my two suspension threads on here. Hopefully anyone else getting these arms and getting confused will come across this thread first.

 

Is nothing else supporting that lower control arm's pivot point?

 

that pivot point is a stepped solid metal tube(with the hole going through it for the bolt. The thinner part has to be inserted into the frame where the bushing used to go. it is a VERY tight fit. It can only go in so far because the wider section will not fit in. you then weld the area of the step to the frame. I might even throw a gusset or two on either side. But it is pretty freaking solid. You are essentially just welding in more frame.

 

I can see that. I think I might have to get one of these and coilover them.

As for the crossmember, does anyone have bolts for these? I need 4. lol

 

That was one of my thoughts. If I ever go coilover, it would be SUPER easy with these arms and the factory upper shock mount(after getting rid of the bag mounts). The rear would be easy for me as well, as I would just run coilovers from the axle to the bridge. I've actually thought pretty seriously about going with a full set of sleeve/bellow over struts from AirLift and running their v2 controller. I would get great handling PLUS the adjustability of air ride.

 

This is what make trucks cool and easy. We start off with simple yet early designs of torsions and leafs and we can adapt newer designs. All you need is fabrication artists!

I think the bag mount can be modified to work with a coilover.

I was wondering, what's the difference between the jeebus and the regular arms

 

I checked out the site and according to them regular can lay 20's, while jeebus can lay 22's. But looking at the pics the jeebus looks like its may be a uniball type of upper arm, while the regular is a ball joint. While I wouldn't ever feel the need to lay out on 22's, the jeebus arms look better.

 

Jeebus joints are effectively multi-part spherical bearings used in place of ball joints. It seems to me that you get the extra travel and you also get suspension that doesn't wear out like it would with rubber-cored ball joints. Also, if you want a custom pattern engraved on the caps, I think that is included in the price, but i could be wrong.