do ya think, do I have to replace the radiator core support? don't know what to do, replace the radiator support, whats your opinion?? I tried to straight out some of the damage, but its not the same as before it got in a wreck.

(in both pictures above has a circle of the question)





as u can see in this picture, the p/s tire is turned right and the d/s tire is straight.
Do ya know if they have a replace part for the circle item in this picture??? their is rust in that area.

 

here is a couple of old pictures before I took anything off from the truck.

 

I would replace the core support if it were me. And which part are you talking about in the other pictures? The piece in the front with the holes in it?

 

I agree bro...you need to change out that core support cause youll never get those fenders, grill, lights or bumper to line up! As for the bottom support bracket with the holes in it, Id try to grind some of that rust off & weld some sort of support plate across the front & the section that is almost rusted out on the bottom! Are you able to weld?? If not them Im sure you can find someone who can do it for you. The only other option would be to find a truck frame in a junk yard, cut that support bar out & re-weld it in.

 

I would also have to agree, that radiator support is easily obtained and will be much easier to replace than to tweak back to shape. Hows the condition of the wheelhouse, from what Ive seen it looks a little tweaked outta shape, but might be salvagable, also could consider replacing this so you dont have alignment issues. Totally agree with the guys on the grinding and preparing of the front clip, since the fenders and stuff are out, once you get the parts installed, sand it, grind it and paint, undercoat it, your truck will love you for it . . .

L o w N l o u d

 

yeah, i'm talking about the one w/ the holes. I try to get better pictures tomorrow and I will post them.

 

I wish I knew how to weld. I am planning to take a welding class this coming fall w/ the extra classes that I'm going to take to get my 2 year degree in automotive. i'm going to talk w/ guy in town, to see if he can do the welding for me.

 

thanks everyone for ya opinions.

 

Np...Id talk to someone who who has done some autobody repair work & get them to do it for you. As for core supports you can check around & see whay they cost, but if you want to take a small road trip then Ill meet up with you & sell you the one Ive got. Hell if your taking any automotive classes then see if anybody in a autobody repair class will help you weld in the core support.

 

well, right now I just finish the 8 weeks of spring semester. I don't go back untill the summer. I'll check around for a body shop that can do the welding part. Do ya have a picture of the core support?

 

i would see how well new parts fit, your inner fenders might be tweaked to. lining it up after a beating isnt that hard, the panels and mounts have a bit of adjustment. the absolute best way would be for a cab swap, which can be done in a weekend.


that bit with the holes in it is part of your frame, the first rail on the "ladder" i would replace that or brace the F out of it asap.

bad news

i was looking at this pic closely and your frame is bent


see how the body mounts arnt on the same angle, there is also a arc where you circled it. i would seriously be considering swapping the 1ton stuff to a different truck, looks easier and cheaper.

 

man. please don't tell me that.

how many people do ya think will it take to do a cab swap?

 

It doesn't look like the frame is bent to me and even if it is it's not drastically bent enough to where I would swap the cab and all of the b/s. If your frame is bent, take it to a body shop that has a frame straightener and let them fix it. But it really doesn't look bent to me. As far as the piece in the front, cut it out and weld a piece of square tubing that will probably be your easiest/best solution.

 

okay . . .

I second that part about the frame straightener. Worst come to worst, its a detail you didnt overlook and itll save you headaches later done the road. As far as the alignment bit Ide check that the Tie rod ends are equally spaced on both sides, maybe just the one side is outta wack. Both tie rod ends should be equal in their spacing installed on the tie rod itself. When I did the drop spindles on my truck, I had to screw the tie rod ends in further than the stock settings ( as stated in directions from Belltech ) ( . . . OR, I could have shortened the tie rod ) I did this by installing them and then measuring their EQUAL spacing on both sides then I used a toe board to check alignment ( basically its a cheater way of checking to make sure tires are straight ) you can also measure from the center of the tires on the front side of them by marking them with tape or tape and then doing the same on the back, toe board is easier. After that I got it aligned digitally at a service shop and was within 8 mm, NOT BAD considering ! But, first things first check to be sure frame is straight and then go from there . . .

 

You should get the spec sheet for the frame and do some cross measuring at the least. Just a few mills off, and you may have a hard time bolting new parts on. That sure would be a waste when you find out it won't pass wheel alignment. You also need to pull everthing back the best you can before you start removing or cutting out the side aprons and or radiator support. I have worked in the autobody industry for 12 yrs and this is my opinion. (I was the painter=) I also agree that it may need to go on a frame machine.

 

yeah, I'm going to take it to a body shop, as soon I get my other truck fix, hopefully today.

 

Man, do you have problems. Having to work on 2 trucks at once.
That sucks, hope it all works out for you.

 

tell about it. I just took my 89 Chevy silverado 4x4 to the shop just a few minutes ago. one of the starter bolts broke off (its the one closest to the transmission) and I tried to take it off w/ a bolt estractor, but no luck. it has to be retap. right now, i'm driving a gas-guzzler to work and back (79 t-bird w/ 351/v8,). I hope to get my truck back soon.

 

Dam, with gas prices the way they are, that's costing you a bundle over driving your yota!!!

 

yeah. thats why I need at least my chevy back on the road asap. I drive about 20-25 minutes to work.