Here are some good site that may be able to help you...
http://www.suicidedoors.com/

http://streetissuecustoms.com/maintop.htm

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http://www.guiltybydesign.net/forums/templates/NoseBleed/images/newsbar.jpg

 

suicide doors is the place... but honestly that price is unreasonable. I paid $1600 for my parts shipped that didnt include lines and fittings which i got hooked up with by a friend haha (true hydraulic hose, and really good fittings, not to mention marine grade wiring, yeah my trucks over kill).

 

I prefer the CanDo reverse cantilever 4-link myself. I paid $550 for it shipped. I ordered the rest of my stuff from The Bag Shack. If I could go back and change anything I would have got CanDo's front bag brackets because they're already pre cut and everything. I've got slam bags, GC Xtreme 1/2" valves, AVS aluminum tank, 2 Viair 380's. AVS switchbox. KP gauges. and I've got probably between $2000-$2500 in it. But I did price shop and wanted top notch stuff to do it right the first time. Another thing that will eat you ass up is brass fittings especially push ins, Luckily my grandfather and great uncle are both diesel mechanics and had a majority of the fittings and all my 1/8" line. I paid $50 for 100' of 1/2" line at a plpace that sells semi parts. And I'm sure steel is ridiculous too, we already had all of the steel I needed. Welding wire isn't cheap either.

 

Slam bags all the way. RE7's all the way around here. dont ask me how they fit in the front... they just do.
But yes brass fittings kill.

 

This is my theory, if you don't do it right the first time then you're gonna spend more money in the long run fixing the **** that you should've done right the first time. It's like a guy told me once when I was guitar shopping "If you just keep buying cheap guitars then you're gonna spend more money on crappy guitars that don't last, just buy a good guitar now instead of blowing money on cheap guitars." If you've gotta save for it then save up for it, or if you have a problem saving for it(like me) then just do it Johnny Cash style, one piece at a time. But the reason I prefer the CanDo 4-link is because you can keep the stock gas tank location and you can keep the leaf springs in until you get the 4-link welded in then take them off.

 

The light is burning

I guess Ive caught the bug as well, and want to invest in a quality 4 bag system for my 1987 toyota pickup standard cab. Ive seen tons and tons of aftermarket stuff and other kits all over the place, but if Im going to do it, I wanna do it right the first time, no, taking crap back apart, mending, or rigging sh*t. Im sorry if I am jumping in here, but, I have $2500 saved for parts. I currently have belltech 2" drop spindles and nitro shocks up front, the back is blocks, Im running 17" 205 - 40's with +45 offset ( tucking wont be a problem front or rear, that I know of, all four clear the wells ), I want to keep the stock gas tank location and am open to options on the arms. I wanna know also, Who you guys would recommend ? I dont plan on bodydropping my truck ( YET - or for this project ), I just wanna get lower and be able to " play ". So, without wearing it out, Who should I talk to ! I have the capability of torch/ grinders/welder ( me ), tools gallore, jacks, paint equipment and more. Im not going for show, Im going for clean & go ! Lets hear you !

 

If you plan on leaving the fuel tank in the stock location I would do a set up like Seth's. Looks real clean & says rides great!

 

CanDo Reverse Cantilever. Tons of lift and fairly simple to install and you leave the gas tank in the stock location. great flippin' product!

 

I like . . .

I like it ! Ive been reading Seth's thread like the mini truckN' bible, I like the idea of keeping the gas tank in its stock location because I dont wanna fill up my bed with tanks and compressors, I dont haul anything, but would prefer to have it tucked away. I am going to try something else as well, Im going to either have the bed tilt outta the way so I can access all of the system if I need be, which way or how it lifts and where I dunno, still thumbing over pics and scribbling ideas down. So what say you on the front ? I have the drop spindles and intend on keeping them if possible. I want to keep it simple yet functional and dont wanna have tons of camber when I lay it out . . .

 

Negative camber is fun.

 

it's fun if you like to see you're tires wearing on the insides. I've gotta buy drop spindles for mine because I would rather not replace my tires as often and it will lay out all the way. From everything I've read drop spindles are a must if you wanna lay flat out, also another thing that helps out a great deal is new control arms. The only thing I would've done differently to my truck is I would've bought my front bag brackets from CanDo because they're already cut to fit our trucks unlike the universal brackets that I bought.

 

Yeah its cool dude. The pretacos are easier.. I have a taco. No one makes spindles for tacoma's that dont cost insane cuz they are all custom.. so it sucks for me but whatever I drive at a decent height and my cambers not too bad.
Anyway gas tank in stock location is great but definitely LIFT it up. mine was a custom modification to the crossmember and it came out clean and its way above the frame so i can drag all day and not blink. SLAM RE7's all around= best
Dont ask me how they fit in front.

 

Moving the tank & doing a forward link set up was a must for me ,as very book on suspension says the same thing,you can not change physics. And handing was & is a important part of my build!! I know there are people who disagree with reverse/forward link set ups. But physics are fact,if you push your vehicle,you want it to handle!! Ride & handling are very thing!!
So research as much as you can before you start any part of your build,so you can do it once & do it right!!

 

anything works if . . .

I have read similar things on reverse 4 links. Hell, I consider a 6 - 12 inch lift more unstable than any drop. every highlift Ive rode in makes me feel like Im either riding in a tank or about to grab the door handle to jump out. As for the reverse setup, I have never driven one, never driven a forward 4 link, or even a bagged, so i guess my opinion on these setups dont amount to much. this being said, truck will be driven 90 % in town, speeds less than 35 - 45 miles and hour, stock power will be used with mild carb and exhaust upgrades, NO bodydrop, and will maybe be sometimes driven outta town. My inquiry is for loads of lift, cost effeciency, safety, and air capability, I will not race nor plan on it, shesa cruiser not a dragster, and definently not as built as some of the engines out there. Im not saying anyone is wrong or right, I just want the best ride for how I drive my truck. ALL opinions and recommendations considered. Thank You !

 

I took my truck to over 90 on the freeway and it was still fine. yes with a reverse link. Honestly do it right and it'll be fine for you. As it is for me.
Why bother hassle with the forward link for something that you dont need it for?

 

My reverse 4-link works fine, I haven't gotten to drive it much yet but from the time I have drove it it works very well. The only thing I have to complain about it the lower back brackets, when I lay it all the way down with the front picked up the brackets drag the ground, I'm gonna run some kind of drag plate under the brackets so I'm not dragging the brackets and bars to pieces.