It Froze Last Night and I Went Out To Warm My Truck Up This Morning And It Was Not Happy. Once I Got It To Start And Stay Running It Idled Really Wierd. See Video, Sorry For The Quality I Took It On My Phone. Im Thinkin Its A Choke Or Vacuum Problem. Ideas? <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Dpct5JfAaXw&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Dpct5JfAaXw&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Sounds just like my 75' before I got the Weber 32/36 DGEV on it. I love Toyota vehicles, but the carbs on these trucks have probably caused more gray hairs than women. WHEW' The automatic choke richens the fuel mixture by closing the choke valve when the engines cold, its basically closes the cold air intake from the air cleaner, thats why theres a tube on the exhaust manifold to allow hot air in only till the thermo vlave triggers the flap shut, If its faulty then you get richer fuel, COLD air, shugga lug chugga lug, and if your carb is running rich already, OH BOY your in fora fun warmup. ( When engine is COLD --->check the choke breaker adjust if needed, on yours it should be about 40' ( degrees ), also check your kickup adjustment - when the primary throttle valve is open all the way the valve should be straight up and down - IF its not bend the secondary lever to adjust, furthermore press on the gas pedal or move the throttle to wide open, if the choke plate closes start up the truck and warm it up, when its warmed up the plate should open back up if it does everything is correct; Now when it was cold and the plate doesnt fully close ---> loosen [ dont remove ] the three screws on thermostat case ( your choke wire plugs into this ) and turn the body of it till it does close the choke then tighten the screws back down and your good to go. IN short : ) thats your choke adjustment. The #1 thing that causes problems for you is probably a missing exhaust manifold hot tube, or a faulty choke setting or that your carb and engine are so dirty and gummed up that its like running a marathon in malases. You wanna solve your problem completely - BUY a WEBER 32/36 " No more issues "! Goodluck - Hit me up if you need more help man, Ive been playing with these carbs for years now. . .
That Pretty Much Describes My Truck, Missing that Manifold Tube And Already Runnin Rich. Webber Time!
Well - For now, dry set your idle mixture screw to 1 3/4 turns from closed ( close it [ left ] and then turn it back open 1 3/4 and its set ) then replace the tube with one from a parts store or junker and then order yourself a weber. If you wanna good recommendation hit me up in private message and Ill hook you up with the same guy I got mine from ( I paid $289 w/shipping. Man its like night and day the upgraded power and ease of installation.
i wouldnt bother with adjusting the mixture. its not the problem, the egr is prolly the source. but its the choke plate being too fully closed that is causing that lopey idle. i would just adjust the choke to not shut so far and call it good till you get a weber. you could verify it by taking the lid off the air cleaner and holding the choke butterfly open when cold to see if it runs smooth. you dont want to tune a carb for anything other then a warm condition. if you adjust it so it runs ok cold, thats all it will do.
BUY a WEBER 32/36 " No more issues "! my thoughts exactly lol my truck starts soo much easier now on cold days.
Give it a few good revs manually until it's warmed up.... Gotta remember it's 29 year old technology....
that sounds bad.. thats about how mine sounded before it died a few weeks back lol but i doubt thats the case
