As of 2022 this thread is still active and updated periodically. I keep it mostly for my own build history. Go to most recent page for updates

6/2022

Here's the posts with action (I'll keep this updated when I can)
Post #46 - New gauge cluster
Post #51 - New Ford 347 stroker and custom G-Force T5
Post #54-56 - Narrowed 8.8 rear end & rear sway bar
Post #57 - Oil pan clearancing (not required, but helpful)
Post #66 - Teaser pics of fresh paint job, fresh 347 engine for this season (11.52:1)


11/2019:
Over the years I've been approached many times about the swap and I typically receive a group of the same questions every time. Here are some notes on some of the FAQ I get for the SBF swap. You have to keep in mind that I'm carb'd and running v-belt setup without PS or AC, meaning all I have for accessory drives are water pump and alternator. I did this intentionally and it simplifies things. I can't speak for anyone going with EFI and serpentine belts. I'm also running a GForce T5, but the layout is the same with any 'ole T5 you can scrounge.

0. $1000. Bare minimum it's going to cost you. Plan for double, or 12 times that much .
1. Motor mounts. You can build them, or you can use NWOR mounts. Back in 2011 I spoke with NWOR about their mounts and they were selling at the time as 4WD only due to clearance reasons. I used them and they fit like a glove, and I believe I was the first or one of the first to use them in a 2WD mini. At the time, NWOR said clearance issues prevented them from being 2WD compatible, but we proved that was not the case.
2. Relocate your oil filer. I suggest to stay away from the Transdapt rubber line kit. Buy the adapter only and plumb it with some steel braided line with AN fittings. You'll thank me later.
3. Slightly modify your passenger side tunnel for bell housing clearance. What I mean by modify is either use a grinder to cut away and weld some sheet metal, or take a 5lb mallet and give it a few whacks. The lower "knub" area. Whatever works best for you.
4. Make your own transmission mount. I ended up getting a spare Toyota one, cutting it up and fabricating it to use the factory Mustang rubber mount on the Toyota cross member.
5. Have a driveshaft made. Use the matching T5 yolk with the Toyota flange. I'm running an 8.8 narrowed rear end so I used the Ford flange, but use whatever setup you have.
6. Clutch. If you're using a cable operated T5, you'll have to convert it to hydraulic. This is easier than converting your Toyota pedal to a cable, and it isn't as daunting or expensive as it sounds. Google "Mustang T5 hydraulic conversion". I used the Daze bracket for the first few years without issue. I did however end up fabricating my own custom mount, which is what I'm currently running.
7. Headers and exhaust. Probably the single biggest reason I see people turn away from the swap. As of the time of my swap (~2012), I wasn't aware of any set of headers that were a direct fit due to steering shaft and control arm clearance. I tried BBK shorties as well as no-namer China headers, both hit. NWOR sells swap headers, but I can't vouch for them. I did call up one of their tech guys and they confirmed that their swap headers don't fit the 2wd because of clearance.
8. I used my stock Toyota throttle cable initially. Over the years the extra-long cable started to bug me visually, so I'm now currently running a custom shortened throttle cable. Suprisingly, I picked up a universal throttle kit from the local speed shop, and it works well and looks good, too.
9. Run the factory Ford dual-sump oil pan. It fits like it was designed to be in there. It's tight, but fits great. See post #57 about how to make it fit even better.
9. Engine running basics. You'll need all the basics to get the engine running. Power, grounds, fuel, etc. This can vary between SBF models and parts, whether EFI, Carb, which distributor you run, etc. Before I upgraded my entire fuel system, I ran a cheap Holley FPR and universal 12V external pump. It worked, I don't recommend it for performance, but it did work. My current setup is still on a stock tank, but with Aeromotive fuel pump, regulator, and braided 4AN lines for both feed and return.
10. An unlimited subscription to your local beer and pizza mart.


2012 Original Post
Check it out.

I just put the motor and trans in last week. I took it to the shop for a few hours last night and finished up some things. I still have a few things left before she's going, but hopefully in about 2 weeks. I had the driveshaft finished, but was stolen from my house a few nights ago. I need to finish getting a radiator in there some how, and a fuel line. Then she fires up and goes.

These are the only crappy phone pics I have so far, but I will be working on it this weekend so I will be putting up some more pictures. BTW, I used the NWOR mounts. Flawless


If I get enough interest in the thread, I'll do a write up.

 

I'm super interested in your build!!! Love it!!!

 

Man, I'm wanting to put a 302 I'm my yota in the next couple of years. Good luck with the build. I will be looking at this for info.

 

nice, this things gonna bump and bang

 

what modifications did you need to make in order to drop in the 302? Id love to build another 302 (last 2 projects were fox bodies!) and drop it in the toy one day with a tko600 and 4.10 8.8 rear end.

 

The truck also has a T5 and 8.8" 3.73LS. Literally to fit the 302 in the truck you need a $200 set of specific motor mounts and a $60 oil filter relocation kit. Other than that you just have the basics like fuel and harness ( in my case I am carb'd).

I have numerous photos of t he entire truck build and would be more than happy to help with a swap in the future to anyne who wants to. Its so easy and fits like a glove.

 

Thank you for that little bit of info. That was exactly what I needed to know. Rear sump oil pan right?

 

Yeah. You need a rear sump pan but the stock ones that came rear sump fits so perfectly you would think toyota designed it to be that way. Can include pictures of fitment if you need.

 

These are the mounts I used. They are made by Northwest Off Road and are high quality. These mounts allow you to literally bolt a SBF right in.
Heavy Duty Toyota Motor Mounts, Ford, Chevy, GM Bolt-In Engine Mounts, Transfer Case Alignment Shims, Power Steering Kit, T-Case Mounting Plate

This is the oil filter relocation kit I am using. In stock placement, the SBF oil filter will hit the drive side frame. I relocated mine to the front left fender well.

Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Filter Relocation Kits 1113 - Mobile SummitRacing.com

 

Nice build just finished a week ago a 351 Cleveland for my neighbors fox . Did a compression bump and a comp thumper sounds good for a stang . Love to see the details or pics of the build hell of a motor man

 

Thanks. When I get on my computer later I will post up some pictures. There are also pictures throughout the random other threads I have started.

For now, the truck has a 93' 302 block (HO roller, forged pistons) but I converted it back to carb. I built headers because there was none on the market that fit. This is the mock-up motor and will be replaced with the 347 stroker when I finish building it. The truck boogies even with the 5.0. Stroker motor is setup for nitrous and is being built for 500hp.

 

Bet it does so u gonna have to run some sort of torque arm or ladder bars/ system out back .id imagin with drag radials that thing would get gone in a hurry at the track

 

excellent, thank you. and it just so happens a buddy of mine placed his short block on craigslist lol. gunna see if we can work something out. may end up selling the 22r when the head comes back from the machine shop if things work out.

 

didnt fit as in they needed too much modification to work and was easier to build your own?

 

I basically gave away my supercharged 22re for $1800 to help fund the start of the project.

Its hard t explain why I had to, but ill try.

The motor mounts that I listed are technically "4wd only". This is because the 4wd models are raised higher off the ground and also have a factory body lift. Our 2wd trucks have less clearance somehow and the exhaust hits all sorts of things like the steering shaft on the drivers side and some brake lines on the passenger side. I decided in the long run it would be less headache to jjust build my own. Cost about $150 in parts and A LOT of beer.

 

Looks good sounds like its gonna b a beast. I have a 302 in mine but my truck is on bags and boddied so my motor sticks through the hood and mine is mildly built.

 

you mean to tell me someone broke into your house and stole your custom toy/ford shaft thats a weird blackmarket item to fence

 

i see! i saw that off road site also sells swap headers but im sure there would still be the same issue with clearance. luckly i have a few buddies who can build a set of headers for me if needed for little cash and a lotta bear/drinks lol.

 

Nice build, trucks badass

 

That's sick! What kind of suspension are you running up front?