Idle surge sounds like its reving then dropping... also theres a "tapping" which im not sure if its the exhaust leak or somethign worse. im uploading video as we speak.
vac lines, air intake tube should be sealed, idle screw too high? i have no clue what you've done to your truck, how many miles, etc.
i havent done anything, and i dont think anything has been done to the motor..i tried lowering the screw and nothing.. i was told there was 20k on a rebuilt motor but idk how legit it is. vac lines seem to be all connected, and the tap when i rev it worries me.
yota exhaust leak they all do it after a while.... just run it and listen to it use a snap on screw drive as a stethoscope hahhaa it works really well
checked the chain, nice and tight.. guides are intact, looks at one time it was horrible since the cover is gouged to hell.
edit.. forget what i said about the chain being tight... pretty sure its not supposed to be like this. http://www.facebook.com/v/1633995047251 also, notice how the shiny link isnt aligned with mark.
It won't always be on that mark, I believe that you need to set the number one cylinder to TDC on the right stroke and then check it. I think it sounds a bit like a valve tap. If the timing is off or the valves are improperly adjusted, it could cause a lope like that. Doesn't sound like a timing chain guide or an exhaust leak though. Not from the video.
Maybe you should readjust your valves back to spec or run em a lil tight i like .007 on the intake and .011 on the exhaust and also torque down your valve cover to spec to make sure the top of the valvetrain isnt hitting the valve cover. Also maybe just get some throttle body cleaner and clean it your tb with that and a rag. if its not that, my guess is somethings wrong with the timing chain.
the hunting idle is definitely the idle adjusted too high. can you drive the screw in until it stops? (it will be easily turned till it stops dead...dont force it) if you can bottom out the screw, someone probably adjusted the throttle stop to hold it open, then adjusted the TPS to match. they probably did this to cover up bad idle from vacuum leaks or timing (cam or ign) being off. 1. check cam timing. with the spark advance notch on the crank at the 0* mark on the timing cover, the dot on the cam sprocket should be within a tooth of 12 o'clock, maybe a little to the left. if it's nowhere to be seen, turn the crank 360 degrees. 2. while you're in there, check valve lash and make sure you still have the drivers side timing guide. 3. check the throttle is closing fully and that it's idling on the bypass screw. if you have to adjust it, adjust the TPS too. great time to clean the throttle body and aux air valve underneath. 4. check ignition timing.
Forgot to add! Check the throttle cable it may be too tight theres two nuts on it that if you loosen it up allows you to adjust the slack on the throttle, which may be holding your throttle open at idle.
