My new yota is havin some idleing problems once it's warm. Basically I start it an it runs fine but once it warms up it feels like it's gonna die out but doesn't stays running. It's a 22re with 85000 miles. I'm thinkin the timing might be off a little bit. Or maybe some plugs from under the motor aren't connected. But idk open to more ideas.
What year is it. EFI or carb??? For EFI it's always good to check your timing with a timing light. Manely it should be 5 degrees BTC. Try adjusting your idle screw at the throttle body. Another way if you don't have a timing light you can advance your distribution counter clockwise but make sure you mark your spot before you decided to advance or retard your timing. Just another way to diagnose your problem. If carburetor same thing check it with a light or adjust your carburetor mixture screw. If you Need more details let me know. We can go through it step by step
It's a 94 efi. Were gonna check the timing on it this weekend. Hopefully it's nothin major. Could a plug not hooked up cause this?
Might be something fuel related. Its probably not getting enough after the cold start injector quits sprayin
Its sounds like its the cold air idle valve under the throttle body. I had the same problem and replacing that fixed it
A plug not hooking up will ne a noticeable difference like your motor shaking from cold start to warm up and even if a plug is not plugged up right you engine will still run but won't die on you.
Aside from timing, mine was a leak after the VAFM before the throttle body. Why? Metered air. During cold starts, the cold start injector and open loop adds more fuel, so AirFuelRatio AFR is rich, and doesn't matter til the truck warms up and the temp sensor tells the engine it is time to relax a bit. When the truck is in optimum temperature, it reads the normal AFR map in the closed loop. BUT the VAFM's reading is off because of the leak. The VAFM will read "x" amount of air, but with the leak, there is actually "x+y" air going past the throttle body into the engine. Result is that the AFR ratio is off, the o2 sensor reading is off, and the truck doesn't understand what to do. That gives you a truck with a ****ty idle, almost dying, and poor driving. Ask me how I know this? Because I did it to my own truck for the longest time. I was in 7th/8th grade, I made an intake pipe for my truck out of sketchy pieces, RTV, and ABS pipe. The elbows were cracking, the seals had major holes... The truck didn't read correctly. It died alot when the truck came to a stop. about 2 years later, after countless times patching up the old one, I redid mine, with a intake/battery swap, using a proper metal intake pipe/elbow with a silicone connector and factory connector. The end product is a nicely sealed intake. No off readings anymore, the truck runs strong. Another contributor to a similar symptom can be vacuum leaks. Cold Air Idle Valve usually only affects start up in cold cold conditions. MY CAIV problem was frozen coolant lol.
Maybe mines leakin too. I just realized there's hella tape on the intake after the airbox. I'll have to swap my other one on an see if it helps
dum dum dum dummm... yeah, my ABS intake had.... duck tape. hahahahh fail on me. intake manifold has only a few connectors... one is for that EGR thing in teh rear, the cold start sensor on teh side, and TPS. few things really. Lemme see a pic?
**** you can't see it in the pic I have. I'll have to get one this week. I'm gonna pull my 91 up to the 94 an check everything out. An swap the intake to see if it helps
I looked at the smog papers an it says the timing is at 10 degrees bottom. Tht should be at 5 degrees right?