I noticed more people are interested in the idea, and I wished I would've come across a how-to on this long ago. So here's a shot at it to help everyone else interested in drifting their pickups! This is on a 1988 2wd single cab pick up. No power steering or ABS. So first things you will need: -Double flare kit -Drill and bits -Welder (with minor welding skillz) -8x4in steel plate can be 1/8"<1/4" thick. -4 bolts (2 must be 1.5in length and 2 must be 1in. sorry I can't be exact) Then for parts you will need a hydraulic brake. To make things easy I suggest you get the Sickspeed one off eBay. -SickSpeed Hydraulic Handbrake - The fitting with part number:121003 is 3/16x3/16-24 Brake ends in case you have another place to get all the fittings. and for Part number:643961 you only need one, but summit only sells in twos. All the lines and fittings needed from summit, search for part numbers don't forget to look at quantity. Instructions: Start by obtaining a 8x4in piece of steel. clean and sand down etc. Then take your brake and center it on the plate and weld. From here you can either weld it to the truck, or Drill a hole in each corner. I chose this way to mount it because the width of the brake, it does not sit smoothly. My only other suggestion would be to take a mallet and hammer down some areas to make it sit right. But one problem I could foreshadow by doing that would be the bolt locations would be more centered which would be directly above your drive-shaft. Depending how low your truck sits, you could possibly hit the bolts. Here is where your holes should approximately be.. This spot seems to fit nice because the body lines match the shape . Bolt it down. Then find a close spot to drill two holes for the brake lines to go through. Start by adding the fittings to the master cylinder (don't forget to use teflon tape) Add the brake lines and run them through the holes you made. Add a grommet to the hole if it bugs you that its bigger then the brake line. Under the truck the stock lines run along the inside of the passenger side frame. You should notices 3 lines running along the frame. The top one (red in the picture) is coming from the front brakes to the load sensing proportioning valve "LSPV". The second tube (green) is coming from the master cylinder to the rear brakes after going through the LSPV. That is the line we want! The bottom (blue line) is a fuel I believe, didn't look hard enough to guarantee. Take the second tube and find a nice spot for the new brake lines to meet and cut the stock line in half. Be ready for the brake fluid! *******I will finish this tomorrow, but I have to go for the night. any input,thoughts, or suggestion to make this a better how to are appreciated*****
Does this one have locking mechinism too or just free, cause I seen others with both the lock and free handle
So I thought I'd be able to edit and add more to the original post, but apparently not, so I will continue here. It does have a locking feature, that is a little piece that you can flip over when you don't want it to lock. Continue: So after you make your cut in the brake line, let some of the fluid out to make less of a mess on yourself. Take the brake end and slide them onto the lines, and then flare the ends of the brake lines. I'm sure you guys can figure it out using good, but here is a quick link on how to do that.. Flare video (chose this one because its the shortest and gets you the point.) Do this to both ends of the cut. AGAIN, DON'T FORGET THE BRAKE ENDS BEFORE YOU FLARE. Connect the line adapter to your hose coming for the brake. Now this seems a little backwards, but your going to run the hose coming out of the back of the brake to the brake line that would be going back towards the master cylinder. and the line from the top to the back brake line. if that makes sense? Heres Microsoft paint a diagram kind of thing: Connect them all together, Teflon tape each fitting. Here are the colors just to be sure you get the right line and see the direction. Once everything is connected, you have to bleed the brakes I Forgot to put Dot3 brake fluid on the things needed for this. But anyways bleed the brake in the order of.. Driver rear, Passenger rear, Passenger front, Driver front, and then LSPV! DONT FORGET the load sensing proportioning valve! It's located above the axle connected to the passenger side frame. You will see all the brake lines connect there. Once your done bleeding the brakes and got all the air out, your Handbrake is ready to go!! It's very sensitive and will lock the rear up easily! Take it out for some drifts and have fun, stay safe! Let me know if you guys have any questions.
Thanks for the write up. I was looking at the hydro brakes but no one ever wrote anything down about the brake lines. Good job.
awesome. i hope i get around to doing this soon. i just scored a pair of 2001 celica bucket seats for 80 bucks on craigslist so bye bye bench seat hello drift-friendly e-brake ;D
Awesome write up! I have always set my factory ebrake so it locks up easy for stunt driving lol. This seems like a really nice option. Can it safely be a parking brake or would a cable type still be best to park?
I wouldn't trust a hydraulic system to hold my truck on a hill what if a line popped off, or the master bleeds off
That's what I was thinking. This seems like a secondary hand brake concept more than a primary. Ill stick with the cable type to toss the truck around.
