As the title says I'm just curious how low I can get my 1995 toyota pickup 2wd before having to c notch and other major fabrication, first post btw

 

Tape measure. Everyone's truck height is different after 20years of use. Allow for a few inches of up travel, around 3"

 

So 4 inch blocks rear and djm lcas and drop spindles will be a bit too much?

 

In running 4" blocks now with NO leafs pulled out. And in doing fine. Im about to get 3" lowering leafs..im gonna have to notch then..ive heard/read anything more then a 6" drop in the rear youll have to notch.. but like Perkolater said..just have to measure

 

Okay thanks, thats good to know ^

 

That's without bump stops or those low profile bump stops, right?

 

They are all different. My 84 x cab has 3" blocks and trimmed stock bumpstops and it hits the stops more often than not.

My 89 has 4x4 leafs, shortened shackles and a 4" block with a 2" notch and I hit a lot. I really need to put bumpstops on it.

 

And yes without bumpstops...thank you mr dinkleman

 

What about the front end of the truck any limitations?

 

Where did you get your 4" blocks? Did you have to drill them out to get the nipple that the block sits on from the leaf to fit? I was attempting to swap my 3 inch blocks for 4" blocks and the blocks I bought the guide hole is too small for the nipple on the leaf springs to fit.

 

Yeah ive heard about this issue to so im curious ^

 

Thanks! I was worried I was missing something when I finally have time to work on my truck. I only have about 3~4inches between my axle and bump stop with the stock setup.

 

If you have the rubber isolators on the springs there is NO need to drill your blocks to fit the isolator in the block. Remove the isolator and put it under the block against the u bolt plate. Problem solved.

 

The limit should be your ground clearance, I was static before and the first part to hit would be the crossmember on the ground. Now I'm bagged and I didn't have to change anything for clearance besides room for the bag.

Static I used drop spindles rather than just cranked torsion bars, I had to add a little lift via the torsion bars after the 2.5 spindles and a ball-joint flip which kept my spring rate up and prevents bottoming as easy while riding low.

 

Okay thanks!

 

They were on the truck when i got it with a single leaf.... After i replaced the leaf "spring" with the factory leaf "springs"...i did notice the block wouldnt fit over the nipple so i did drill the hole to fit and it was good to go .....


As for the front..i just have 2"drop spindles. Im gonna do a BJ flip when i replace my shocks

 

I removed the isolator and the metal saddle that goes around the leaf springs. Apparently this feature only goes on the mid 90's pickup before they became the tacoma in 1995. All years previous to that did not have the isolator or metal saddle and the blocks sat right on top of the leaf spring pack (held in place by the u-bolts and rear end) and the standard bolt was 3/8 hole in the bottom of the lowering blocks. Once I removed the isiolator and metal saddle piece the bolt/ guide pin fit perfect in the 3/8 hole that comes standard in most lowering blocks. I did reuse the nipple part of the rubber isolator and I put it on the guide pin ontop of my blocks for a better fit into the rear end perch. That is the reason for the bigger rubber isolator in the first place.

This is my old blocks that someone drilled out to make it work with the isolator. The new block is on the bottom with a standard 3/8 hole. I ended up replacing this with a custom set of 5" welded steel blocks.