Help. Weber install and Emissions removal

Discussion in 'Maintenance/Repair' started by 77RN23, Feb 17, 2014.

  1. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    So, I know enough to be dangerous. I watched online videos of a 22R Weber install and have read as much as I can find. My stock configuration seems different than the other installs I've seen on here. So, here are some noob questions...

    Carb is installed and truck starts. Yay! What am I supposed to do with these coolant hoses?
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    ER block plate is in place, but my kit included these intake pieces. I can't for the life of me find where they go...
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    I have all these hoses? Do I just cap these off?
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    What is this hose running back to the distributor? Cap it as well?
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    I also have loose hoses coming from this...
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    Any help is much appreciated.
     
  2. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    Cap all the vacuum hoses except to the distributor, and the two coolant hose you can hook together. You can get a pipe plug for the vacuum piece by your thermostat, makes it look better!

    My distributor hose goes to the one vacuum port on the carb.

    The block off plate goes to a thing by that last pic, but you may not have it, my 77 20r doesn't but my 80 20r did..
     
  3. wtsane

    wtsane Member

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    Okay, let me begin this by saying that (and read this next bit twice) I am not the expert on this, I have done one, which still doesn't like me, but that is because there was an inch and a half of rust and muck in my tank. This is what I have: The vacuum lines on the distributor control the advance, you need them. The others can be blocked off, they are mostly for emissions stuff. Do not block the crankcase ventilation, on the top of the valve cover. Cap or block everything else, then assess what you need after that. You can always uncap, and vacuum line is cheap.

    The best write up for adjustment which I have found is :CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

    Now, learn from my mistake(s): I was made nuts by my fuel delivery system for several days, before I dropped the tank, drained the gas, and looked inside. That was several wasted days, with me thinking the carb was sensitive and generally making an idiot out of myself looking in the wrong direction. Dropping the tank takes an hour or so, can be done with the rear wheels on ramps (see my build thread), and is remarkably unsucky as jobs go. If your tank has been in there for thirty years or so, it likely has similar neglect.

    Like I said, I am not the expert, but I am right there in the soup beside you. Best of luck.
     
  4. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    Thanks guys. The two coolant hoses look awful and I don't want another break/leak point. I'm going to see if I can find a hose that replace the two and tuck in lower behind the carb.

    A few more questions. I can remove everything with a red X, correct? The lower hose that I marked with a yellow line runs below the engine towards the firewall. What is that? Also, Can I remove the piece within the green circle and use a pipe plug there like I would for the vacuum piece by the thermostat?
    [​IMG]
     
  5. standardbyker88

    standardbyker88 Grand Toyotaholic

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    My turn! Lol.

    The port under the carb plenum can be replaced with a pipe plug. The same goes for the vacuum tree on the thermostat housing. I prefer brass fittings but any metal type will work.

    The distributor vac line goes to the pass side of the weber on one of the free ports. It gives you more timing at low throttle/rev for torque and cuts away as you lose vacuum so you don't have too much timing and get pinging/detonation.

    The 2 water hoses can be traced back and blocked off. The stock carb used a water temp type choke that's why they are there. I like to use a big pipe plug on the intake side, and a pipe plug in the bottom of that metal thing between the 2 and 3 intake runners on the head. You can also use a block off plate but I like how stiff that cast part is for sealing the water behind it.

    The heater should still feed from the pass side front cover to a tube that turns to rubber under the intake. Other side goes down to the lower radiator hose at the radiator.

    The extra block off plates the carb kit came with was for if you want to hook your PCV to the egr port on the intake manifold. Some had a 5th "runner/finger" between the 2 and 3 to loop to the rear of the head. Some versions fed into the carb or a carb plate instead.

    As for the red xs and stuff, it can all go.


    Make sure you run keyed power to the idle cutoff solenoid on the side of the carb if it has one. Some webers do.

    I also highly suggest cutting the "bar" out between the two carb ports in the intake manifold. They are 28mm holes and you are feeding a 32 and 36mm hole into it. Makes a choke point. Removing the metal between the 28 holes gives a better surface area to flow into. Makes a big difference on every one I've done.
     
  6. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    Thank you! :bowdown:
     
  7. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    Quick update...

    Weber 32/36 is installed. My truck accelerates sooo much better, no more bogging. Now, just some fine tuning. I still have the questionable hose marked with the yellow line in the above picks. Tracing it back it looks like it pipes back to the exhaust shield. I'll dig into that later.
    [​IMG]
    It's so much cleaner under the hood with the emission stuff gone. I capped and blocked off the coolant hoses that use to run to the old carb. I ended up using two 3/8 in(Watts LFA-773) and one 1/2 in(Watts LFA-259) plugs that I purchased from Lowes. I also replaced the nylon hose elbow/barb that came from Weber with one that fit the existing hose(Watts A-295). The plugs don't screw in flush, but look better anyway.
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    Most of the old stuff.
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    Thanks again to all those who gave advise.
     
  8. BackForty

    BackForty Newbie

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    that looks really good... making me want to get my stock setup outta the engine bay as quickly as possible. Lots of helpful info here too - good thread thanks!
     
  9. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    Since I've made these changes, my truck runs hot and is overheating. The water pump was replaced by the previous owner and appears to be working. After a short drive I can hear the coolant gurgling in the reservoir. The radiator is hot to the touch as well as the hoses going to the engine as well as coming out. I thought I'd check the thermostat and there wasn't one. I'm thinking that I need a new radiator. Any ideas?
     
  10. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Install a thermostat from either the dealer or Napa only. The radiator and hoses should be too hot to touch after a short bit. If the thermostat doesn't fix the issue you could have a bad radiator, how much bloom is on the core visible under the radiator cap?
     
  11. 77RN23

    77RN23 Member

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    UPDATE: I installed a thermostat with no improvement. I changed out the radiator and the truck is no longer overheating.
    :D
     
  12. JoeyChinook

    JoeyChinook Newbie

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    I see you removed the AIS, or VSV part of it.....
    Does you motor still have the Air Pump running on the A/C belt? Are the ports open?
    Did you cap off the Air Injection ports on the Exhaust manifold? What did you do with that tube that comes around the back of the motor?

    Also, where did you route the heater return hose on the passenger side?

    I am in the middle of this process as we speak....
     
  13. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Hose coming out on the backside if the water pump on the passenger side is a return and the outlet and the underside of the intake is an out.

    [/IMG][/URL]%5BURL=http://s245.photobucket.com/user/jetas454ss/media/Hilux/0C53437F-A73D-43E0-BC06-6A8CD140C030.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]
     
  14. JoeyChinook

    JoeyChinook Newbie

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    That is how it looks on mine. BUT I forgot to take pictures when I was taking it all apart!!!
    The water flow diagram that we've seen doesn't indicate heater hoses, unless the outlet you mentioned on the underside of the intake plenum goes to the heater...

    My project is replacing the stock water choke Aisin carb with the weber 32/36 DGEV on a 1978 20R. I am also installing a Cannon performance intake manifold. As I understand it, I am plugging the outlet on top of the intake manifold that fed water into the choke (LCE intake manifold plug kit), and I am plugging the choke water return hole on the water pump.

    This leaves the outlet/vacuum switch in the middle of the intake manifold plenum. Is this the tube where I would connect the heater hose coming through the firewall? I can post pictures tomorrow....

    Also, does anyone know what to do with the air pump? I left most of it in place (capped the vacuum lines on the switch) so I don't have an open air injection tube connected to my exhaust manifold....
     
  15. Henry

    Henry Enthusiast

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    Thanks for updating this thread. I just purchased my new weber and I'll be installing it soon. There is so much emissions stuff that I was a little worried about removing all of it, but the more I read up on this upgrade it seems like it will simplify things.

    What did you do with the two coolant hoses?

    I'll start a thread of my own when I get around to installing it.
     
  16. Perkolator

    Perkolator Addict

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    Check out LCE - they carry water block plates for all this stuff. There's a couple good pictures they have with labeled arrows pointing to each area.
     

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