Ok so about a week ago the sensor/part broke in half.... (i'm not sure how), but now I've been having idle problems. Idles really low, almost as if i was running a very serious cam. This part has the # 35030 and 6FJ written on the sides if this helps, and contains a rod that can be removed with 2 springs placed on top....one small and one large. I have since glued the plastic piece back together where it broke in half but i don't believe it worked . Can someone please let me know what this is, and what it's for ? Also if i can buy another one and replace it ?!?! Thanks guys!
PCV...Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Yes you can buy a new one at almost any parts store for 5 bucks.
O, and i'm pretty sure that something else is giving you idle trouble cuz all that thing does is...well...vent. And its not a sensor. I'd look at your carb...better yet, I would replace that Aisan with some kind of weber
Actually, forget I said that...hahaha...Yea this could be the problem of a rough idle. Sometimes what happens is unburnt gasses escapes the combustion chamber and gets into the crankcase (blowby). If enough of it builds up, it will give you a rough idle. Change the pcv and see what happens. If your still having idle issues, let us know so we can help you out. And I would still swap out that Aisan.
thanks! Also when referring to Aisan, do you mean carburetor ? If so, what would be a good one to purchase ?
Yea, I'm referring to the carb. Webers are always a good choice, but it all depends on what you want. 32/36 is a good stock replacement because it usually retains stock fuel mpgs or, in some cases, better. This carb has the same cfm as the Aisan, so don't expect big gains by just slapping it on without other upgrades (ie cam, headers etc) 38/38 will give you more torque and a few hp's but at the price of mpgs because it is based on a synchronous throttle plate design. Then of course you have sidedrafts from 40,44,48,50mm throttles (i'm selling dual 45's) which are usually used for all-out performance applications. You should also checkout some internet searches on these carbs because they recently came out with a 36/36 synchro downdraft that should fit the 20/22r engines with the right adapter. More than likely it will support better mpg's and more hp/tq that a 32/36. These carbs are, imo, easier to tune and you can get some of the choking emissions off your engine (if laws permit).
I'm assuming these are all bolt on except the side drafts and how much are you selling them for ? Also right now i'm running just a (Header/Cam). the 32/36 sounds good for DD / little gains. What's your advice ?
What cam profile are you running? All downdrafts will bolt on to your stock mani with the right adapter plates. Sidedrafts will work with the correct mani. I'm selling dual 45's for 650 bucks, a whole 150+ bucks cheaper, but I wouldn't recommend them to you (even though I need them gone). Only because they need a bunch of other stuff to work, and are a little harder to tune especially if you've never worked with them before or don't have anyone to help you. My advice is to go with the 32/36. Reasons: 1) Progressive throttle plates 2) Fairly easy to tune 3) Equal or better gas mileage 4) Cheapest cost compared to all others 5) Don't have to worry about all the emissions and vacuum switches that the Aisan has. A complete kit can be found here http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk746.htm Keep in mind there are different types of choke. Manual, Coolant type (rare), and Electric. The link above shows an electric type. Electric you can just plug it to the positive side of your coil if I remember correctly. Manual choke, is exactly that...you have to operate it manually, usually via a in-cab cable. Don't worry about coolant cuz i don't think they make em anymore. For only $249 you can't go wrong. When I bought my very first weber, it was this model and I payed $349 for the kit. Price has gone down significantly since that. If you need anymore help, let me know. P.S. Here is the list of parts that i'm selling: http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5392
Those sidedrafts looks insane! I'm not to sure as to the cam profile.. I do know that it's a TRD stage 1 cam (Part# 00602-13511-000). Also I'm kinda scared to deal with carburetors, is it fairly chinese to me... How difficult is this puppy to install and tune ? Also this carb. is a direct bolt on to my existing IM? P.S. BTW I got that PCV changed yesterday and my lil truck sounds like a baby again. Thanks KEKAHA!
Hey bro, good to hear that your truck is purring again!!! Yes, the items in the link in my previous post is a direct bolt on. This specific 32/36 uses the electric choke which is the better of the two. In my opinion, the 32/36 is the easiest weber carb to tune because of its progressive design. For someone doing it the first time, it may be a little difficult without guidance, but it is possible by just following the directions step by step. Also, depending on whether or not you have smog laws will make the job easier/harder. If smog is an issue where your at, then you need to keep all of the emissions and vacuum switches. If you do decide to go on with the swap, this is the right place to be. I can help you along the way and there are a lot of others who would do the same. Alojahz
