So I am constantly thinking of new things to do to my truck... Does dynamat really help out like everyone says it does? What is the difficulty of matting the whole interior of an extended cab? How much mat would I need? Estimated price??

Thanks guys

 

Here's a link of what Dynamat products Crutchfield offers:
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_181250...rch=Dynamat VENDORID154&searchdisplay=Dynamat

It does help alot in making the cab quieter while driving, reduces rattles, & keeps in your tunes (if you plan on doing a system). As far as cost, it depends on how extreme you want to go. A buddy of mine with a '97 Nissan Hardbody ext cab did everything, doors, roof, back wall, side walls, & floor. Not sure how much he spent, though. But man is it quiet! I plan on covering everything in my truck as well.

 

Currently i am in the process of doing my truck. I thought about dynamat, but decided to use Fattmat instead. One of the reasons is because shipping is expensive and i got the fattmat second hand.
I did 2 layers on my back wall under the window
2 layers on my extra cab drivers side
1/almost 2 layers on the roof
I know thats not enough but that was all i had till i ran out. There is a big difference in the areas that has and the areas that dont have. Well worth it. I also used expanding foam in all the holes above the drivers door and stuff.(Pics will explain)

Side note. Its pretty hard to find any sort of sound deadening in Hawaii. Not to many shops keep them in stock because its expensive and not a popular item. If you dont want to ship any in, go check out Mobile Car Audio, they carry deadskin. Its sound deadener made by Rockford Fosgate. Kinda pricey, but worth it. Hey you gotta pay the cost to be the boss.
Look for pics on my build thread, cause ill be updating it soon. Hit me up if you need any more advice or like do one group buy or like check out my truck. Shoots

 

I'm planning on using QuietCoat when I get to that point.

 

Heres a pic of my backwall


Not to thread jack but more pics on my build log if you interested
http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?p=31787#post31787

 

dynamats great. I have my entire interior done. (doors, floor, back wall and headliner.)

 

Not only does it keep annoying rattles from developing when thumping on your stereo hardware, but, I can attest that it makes it soo quiet and keeps that annoying road noise out of the picture. If you want quiet from rattling and peice of mind use it ( or one like it ). The only downfall is the cost, but, there are alot of other brands out there, me personally, I use dynamat original, 2 layers - floor, back of cab and roof, doors I run 1 partial layer on the main peice and then I sprayed the hard to reach spots. Nothing beats shutting the doors and feeling weight to them, instead of the original flimsyness . . . Personally, I think any sound dampner is a great investment period . . .

 

dynamat brand isnt essential but it is easier to work with and thicker then some other brands.

I used mostly dynamat extreme because I work at a stereo shop and didn't pay for the majority of it.

 

Yeah i noticed fatmatt isnt to forgiving when you doing it. Out of the 4 people i know who used it, myself included, only 1 of them suggested it to another person. I just used it cause someone gave it to me.

 

Remember, the only way you know when to fix your truck is when you hear it break!

Soo think about it, you dynamat it, and you can't hear problems... imagine how far you will drive until something breaks

I'm kidding. I would sure love to Dynamat my truck too. It's certainly quiet the way it already is, cept if it was as quiet as... say a Lexus LS430, now that, would be some damn luxurious truck!

 

I used Fatmat,test better than the other & less money!

 

You never had any problems with Fatmat? The last few times i had issues with the edges peeling. Its also hard to put on, imo, compared to other deadeners. Price wise though, cant go wrong

 

b quiet

theres a company out there called bquiet its the same as dynamat but half of the price and its just as good or better so save some money and look them up,,, randy

 

theres a company out there called bquiet look them up there just as good as dyna mat at half the price

 

No problems with installing Fatmat,should do it on a warm day in the sun,& roll it as your doing it. Like all else,prep is important,have clean areas,lay primer over them or POR-15 so no rust!

 

In most cases, good quality deadners are all pretty much the same to an extent. (Most are just rebranded, lol). The things to look for are:

1) Make sure it is 100% "Butyl" based, NOT ASPHALT based (it's toxic and you don't want your car to smell like a paving truck, lol).
2) Thickness is always something to consider also. (price per sq foot, thicker is usually better, rather then stacking 2 layers)
3) The stuff with aluminum on one side helps a lot with sound and heat. (wear gloves when installing it though, it will cut the crap out of you otherwise.)

The list goes on and on, but those are the big ones.

BTW, We buy ours from a boat manufacturer place in bulk, at less that half of the price of dynamat xtreme.

 

That could be the reason right there. Whenever i applied mines i did it in my garage in the shade. I was wondering if that had an effect for the edges "rolling", because after being in the sun i assumed it expanded and that was the reason it started peeling. Ill have to do more testing, but sounds like thats the reason.

Also you talking about putting POR-15 over the fatmat after? Would it have a hard time sticking because of the foil and stuff, that metalic layer?

Instead of using name brand deadener, my dad was able to get insulation foam and other stuff like that from work. Hes a contractor. If you have friends that work in a/c, construction, electrician, etc, try and see what they use on buildings and if they have extra. They definatly work way better.

 

I have dynamated way too many cars

Make sure to clean whatever you are about to dynamat. For best results use a heat gun.

Invest in a wood dynamat roller and razor knife. Use the rollers handle or a screwdriver handle in the corners to get the air out and to get the edges to stick. If you have a air bubble you cant get out use the tip of your razor knife to pop it and roll it.

Wear gloves and duct tape the seams on the floor or you will inevidebly have a black line across your ass from sitting on one.

 

My whole roof and inside of my doors are done in the mat made by Stinger..The truck has no rattles at all...

 

until he exits the vehicle and hears the rattles!


So the factory vehicle has barely any soundproofing correct?