Ok....... so my buddy and myself are looking to drop his truck today. ive been looking around for this but cant exactly find it.

ive heard something about "flipping" the spindle mount arm or something to that effect...... someone know what i am trying to refer to?

my initial plan is to do a B/J flip, and ease the torsions down some in order to bring the front down a few inches. also, place a 3" block in the rear...... maybe remove the middle leaf...... not sure yet.

anyways.... was trying to see if there's another method i am missing in lowering the front end "on the cheap".

i personally did spindles, arms, B/J flip and torsions to get to where i am so thats most of what i know.

 

I would just adjust the torsions in the front and blocks in the back. I wouldn't remove a leaf spring. I've seen people do that, then a the other leafs break.

I might be wrong on this but if I remember right you could flip the leaf srpings.

 

yea...... remember someone doing that but not sure it does much anything for the ride.

i know we could also run 4x4 leafs and gain some drop but i think they only drop you like 1"?

 

You can remove the middle leaf & youll be fine. Just keep the overload-the short fat one & the main one of course lol. As for the front you can flip the ball joints & crank down the torsion bars...cheap & effective!

 

I just lowered my 78, dont have a torsion bar, so I cut my coils. Cut 2.5 coils out and did 3inch blocks in the rear and shortened the bump stops. Still rides well and only costed my 40 bucks. You can modify your eyes in the rear but it takes some practice.

 

flipping balljoints makes all the wheight on the front carried by the lil 17mm nuts on the ball joint.


then its a race as to which goes first, the nuts or the ball joint getting pulled apart.

 

Ive got 4x4 leafsprings on the rear on my truck & it gave me about an inch drop too. As for flipping the ball joints Ive never had a problem with the nuts/bolts stripping out or the ball joints failing & Ive had mine like that for over 8 years now. If you do flip the ball joints then just check them from time to time.

 

Dear fellow Toyota Mini-ers,

If you knew me personally... I pretty much beat up my truck and run it super hard.... like seriously...

here's a secret from Monday and my friend's photoshoot...

we went through tunnel for rolling shots,... then at end of tunnel we do U turns to go back through... about the 4th turn around.. I kinda.. went WAYYYY too early... forgot there was a curb there... so you know, i popped a curb at about 15 mph....



not a single scratch on the truck.... and alignment is still friking straight!!! =]



Toyota Owns

 

well..... we did my buddy's B/J flip and added 1/8 inch thick washers on all the bolts between the B/J and the arm and it brought his truck down about an inch and a half according to our pre and aft hub to fender lip distance..... not sure how bu tit did.

we didnt get to crank the torsions down because the torsion nuts are STUCK!!!!!!!!! they are so rusted together we could not pry it appart at all!!!!

anyone have any suggestions? we tried penetrating oil (pb blaster) and NOTHING!

 

Try Naval Jelly.

 

naval jelly? what is it and where can i get some of this stuff to try it out???

 

I had the same problem when I lowered my '94. It took ALOT of penetrating oil! You just have to let it sit for a while!

 

Cinnamon forgot to state how he likes to lock himself out of his truck.

 

i sprayed my 79's with wd40, waited about 2 minutes, then put my 1/2" I.R. torque and titanium impact on them. they came off immediately

 

Oh yeah, attention Toyota Mini goers, i locked myself out of my truck after school this week!

never heard of it either

 

the first day i had my truck i locked myself out of it about 3 times the first day... sucks having one key... for really bad bolts i sometimes use a little propane torch and a spray bottle of water and it seems to steam the rust out... that's my last resort though..

 

might seem like something ill try is keep soaking them in oil and use an impact and ee what happens..... sometimes the rattle of the impact is enough to shake loose all the rust holding the threads.....

 

what wolud itd happen if you put a 4"in block on the back an when you flip you balll joint did your aliment stay the same your wheells dint chamber in

 

Im using the 4-inch angle blocks in the rear of my truck & havent had any problems & Ive also got my front ball joints flipped as well. Not 100% about it messing with your allignment cause I cranked down my torsion bars as well. I did take my truck to a local shop & the set the front toe on it & that set the tires straight.

 

we cant really tell if the alighnment changed since it was in need of an alignment before the drop.... from what i can tell..... the camber might have some negative camber to it but just barely. we kept the upper ball joint in its place to help aid the negative camber with the drop.

if you use a 4" block in the rear, make sure its an angled one and use a lo profile stop of some sort...... stock stops will not clear whatsoever since with the 3 inch ones we have it barely clears off the stops by a half inch....