i finaly got this truck to my house yesterday,and been messing with it all day.70 hilux

drained the gas,put 5 fresh gallons in it. changed the fuel filter. took apart the fuel pump to check for crap,its good.
changed the oil. changed and gaped the plugs. cleaned and gaped the points.
spark plugs at .030" and points are at .019"

flushed the radiator.
pulled the lid off the carb cleaned out the bowl, sprayed through all the little holes and what not in there.

it runs better now than it ever has for me,i used to have to crank it forever and pump the gas to get it started and keep it choked for a long while to keep it running then it would idle and shake realy low.

now i got it running very sweet and smooth and starting good.but i have it dieseling now. very badly. i think it would diesel for ever if i let it. i have to hold the throttle wide open for it to finaly die.pulling the coil wire will not kill it,its something with the carb, or i got the timing all jacked up and its getting to hot making it run on? i dont know. i am a diesel mechainc

i played with the timing all day. all i got is a haynes book. it says 0* TDC @ 650 rpm with vacume advance disconected..

autozonedot com says 0* tdc a 750 rpm vacome advance disconected and plugged for a manual transmition truck,"which i have" and 650 rpm for a auto trany.

i have had it set up both ways. still diesels

my engine realy seams to come up to temp awefully quick ,i have a fan shrowd, new water pump clean nice newer radiator

i hate them stupid intake manifolds that are hooked to the exhaust manifold.

i am going to throw a 160* thermostat in it tomarrow, and keep jacking around with the carb screws and timing.

oh yea and the vacome hoses all seam to be fine and when i spraw WD40 around them amd on the carb it makes no difference.

the thing runs good as hell it just diesels bad. what do you guys think?

it only has 6317 original miles on it ,not rolled over ,clean as hell,and not a valve noise at all.

ill get some pics up next week, thank you

 

set it at 5* btdc, and check for vaccum leakes. Also you might have the carb so rich that its just dumping fuel, with the screwed up timing you got issues. ALso check that the float is not stuck on teh carb. good luck

you located near san diego? i can help

 

May just be a tired carburetor. Make sure your throttle linkage is not binding on return.

 

so set it at 5* btdc with advance hoses disconected and pluged. at 650 rpm or 750 rpm ?

there is no rich smell from the tail pipe.the bowl vents are not over flowing.

i will grab the throttle arm and pull it to the closed position tomarrow while it is dieseling to see if i can kill it.

 

Worse case scenario things are tired within the engine itself. How do your plugs look? Have you done a compression check just to thoroughly check the overall condition of your motor?

Found this online on Wisegeek.com

Ideally, a car's engine should stop running as soon as the driver switches off the ignition switch. There should be no more raw fuel entering the chambers and the spark plugs should no longer ignite it. Things don't always work this smoothly in an internal combustion engine, however, especially when other sources of ignition and raw fuel still exist. Whenever a car's engine continues to run after the ignition has been shut off, mechanics refer to it as dieseling.

Dieseling occurs whenever fuel is ignited by another heat source other than a spark plug. It could last a few seconds or few minutes, depending on the amount of fuel remaining in the combustion chamber and how long it takes for the ignition source to cool down.

Dieseling refers to the process used in diesel engines to ignite the fuel and keep the motor running. Instead of a series of explosions generated by timed spark plugs, in a diesel engine the fuel is ignited by high pressure in the piston chamber, sometimes aided by a single "glow plug" that helps warm the engine block. Unlike traditional internal combustion engines, a diesel engine may have to idle in order to keep the ignition process running properly. In a traditional gas-powered engine, however, such a practice of keeping the engine running is not strictly necessary. If a gas-powered engine begins dieseling, there is usually something wrong somewhere.

One possible cause of dieseling is the use of cheaper grade fuel and oil. Whenever an engine burns lower quality fuel, carbon deposits often develop on the valves and pistons moving rapidly within the combustion chambers. If a carbon deposit causes the piston to rub against metal, a hot spot could easily develop. When the ignition is switched off, the spark plugs no longer deliver a spark hot enough to ignite the remaining fuel in the combustion chamber. A red-hot carbon deposit, however, could still set off an explosion if it comes in contact with unburned fuel. This ignition of raw fuel is often the reason a car starts dieseling. It will only stop when the remaining fuel is gone or the carbon deposit has cooled down.

Another possible reason for dieseling could be a faulty link between the carburetor and the engine block. Many older cars have a fuel choking system which is supposed to shut off all delivery of gas to the engine. Sometimes this choking system fails to work properly, allowing gas to flow into the combustion chamber. If that gasoline comes in contact with a hot piece of metal or carbon, it will explode and cause dieseling. More modern engines have a fuel injection system designed to stop introducing fuel into the combustion chamber after the ignition switch is turned off, so dieseling is not as common but still possible if fuel remains in the chamber.

One of the best ways to reduce the chances of dieseling is to keep your car properly supplied with oil and engine coolant. When car engines overheat, hot spots can develop and cause dieseling. You may have to have your pistons and valves examined for the development of sharp edges which could become overheated. Switching to a higher grade fuel or using carbon-removing additives could also help prevent future dieseling.

Some experts suggest that dieseling could be triggered by inferior or improper spark plugs, so you may also ask a mechanic to make sure you have the proper size spark plugs for your car's engine. Many dieseling problems can be addressed during a regular engine tune-up, so tell your mechanic about any irregularities you may have noticed after shutting off the ignition.

 

i put a Mr gasket 160* thermostat in it and it stays cooler now,it never had a over heating problem but i dont mind it a little cooler,and it would have to help with dieseling,the one i pulled out was a 180* and the computer at advance auto said it called for a 195* , i am in south florida so the 160* is staying it there.

i have it idleing at about 800 rpm which is fine for a 4 cylinder regaurdless of what a book says. 850 would be fine.

i have the timing a 5*btdc at 800rpm with the vacume hoses hooked up and it only diesels a tiny bit some times when i shut it off but not everytime.i dont have a tag for it yet so i have not drove it to see if i pings.

linkage is not sticking or binding,vacume hoses are pristine.
have not done a compresion test but i can feal good compresion on the crankshaft bolt and there has never been a hint of blue smoke out of the tail pipe ever and there is no blowby.the plugs i removed were clean, just slightly tan but i doubt they had 20 miles on them,they looked pretty new.

yesterday i even squirted about a quart of water down its thoat while running ,with a squirt bottle to try and steam any $#it out of it,if it was making a hot spot.made no differnce,

i am wondering if the plugs i instaled are the best choice for this old timey engine. they are platinums, NGK BPR5EGP 7082,thats the only plugs they had in stock at the parts house that cross refenced to the W20EP plugs that the book called for. the thing about them is they have a tiny skinny little center electrode like platinum plugs do. i wonder if that little thing gets glowing hot and keeps lighting off the gas after you kill it?
and i wonder how points systems work with modern platinum plugs?

maybe i should see about a standard set of NGK's ,,maybe even one step colder?

it is improving from what i can tell ,but like i said i cant see if it pings yet.maybe i will grow some balls and rip it through the neiborhood to check.

another thing on my list is to get a 71 corolla distributer so i can put the petronix kit i have in it,they dont have one to fit the 70,the screw holes dont line up and the triger dont fit the rotor shaft. rebuilt distributer is only like 30 bucks shiped on ebay,so that cool.$%#& points

thanks yall

 

all the advance comes in at about 4100 rpm. how does that sound?

i still have not got it licked yet,after i was goosing it for a while and let it come back to idle it did not idle as sweatly as it was,so i was suspicious,i killed it and it dieseled, farted, and knocked ,finaly shutting off.

i think i will pull the carb compleatly off . play with it some more. make sure the base gasket is sealed real good,buy a roll of vacume tubeing and go to town on it just for the heck of it.

there is a dust boot style seal around the acelerator shaft that sticks out of the top of the carb,it is deteriorated. i dont see this as a posible air leak though because inside it is only open to the float bowl area. which is vented to atmosphere anyway. and the accelerator plunger is in very good shape.

geuse i should get a carb kit anyway.

 

Sounds like you found a real gem once you get this sorted out. You may be onto something with the platinum plugs. When I was into turbocharged four cylinders and running boost at 30 lbs we all avoided platinums since they would cause detonation. I think they retain too much heat. You might try idling it down a little to see if that helps. Good luck.

 

i just flogged it around the neiborhood,and it runs great it only knocks when i give it to much throttle in to high of a gear,but what do you expect it to do.

i can nail it when it is the correct gear and it takes all i can give it and pulls as hard as it can.
but the damn thing diesels when i shut her down. cu clunk cu clunk clunk clunk, i drop the clutch to kill it.

its to f-ing hot out there ,it's beer 30 now.

get me some regular old red neck spark plugs,carb kit ,and a new dizzy.and take it from there.

i would love to hear any real world ,hard learned 8rc timing and tuning knowledge.

i have got to get some pics up on here ,to make you all hate me,this thing is sick,a bed load of new in box spair parts came with it,came with 17" american racing aluminum old school crager looking wheels on it,with new loprofile rubber, no body cancer. it turns out that it came with a brand new set of tail light,"i was looking for" all kinds of stuff.brake parts,clutch, every kind of master and slave cylinder on teh thing, all new. even a new in box MSD 6AL ignition.window rubbers door rubbers..................

the crazy thing is i paid 500 bucks for the SOB! and drove it home after it had been sitting a year unfinished!

basicaly all it needs is a paint job and i'm rolling.nice looking little thing.

2000ish model tacoma has got to be the last good looking toyota truck, they have just about ruined these things with styling B.S. ,nasty looking grills ,fender flairs,hooped up looking things. this 70 is probably the cutest of em all.glad i got it.

 

I think some of the old cars had a solenoid on the carb to kick up the throttle so it would idle and then turns off when you turn it the ignition is off. Also we used to use atf at the shop to get the carbon out. Keep revving it an pour in slowly and finally let it die and let it set for a while. Lots of white smoke

 

i just gave up on the timing light and timed it to where it idled good,and does not ping when i floor it under load, it runs great now,it starts good and does not diesel when i shut it off hot.

now all i have to do is get a paint job and fix the front brakes and i am golden.

its got all new brake springs and slaves in it,with old thin shoes,"kind of crazy"

got some shoes on order 20 bucks, got to love that.

our fiberglass dude is going to do all the body work and paint it with awlgrip for a 1000 bucks,thats going to take a little bit to save up but she will be sweet.

driving this little $hit box reminds me of my old bettle.

 

i'd be curious to see where the timing ended up with your setting by ear. I wonder if it jumped time cause the chain is so loose, or some numb nutz took the distributor out and then didnt put it in correctally. Having correct timing will give that truck a lot more balls. It should not remind you of driving a volks, it has a lot more power then one.

 

in all fairness i think my volks, had more balls with a nasty 1776 ,042 heads engle 110 cam, 36mm delorto. it would bark 32" rear tires in 2nd.

its just the way its a tin box with a 4 speed.

this little yoda pulls pretty good. i have had a nissan and a mazda b2600i ,this tittle old yota feels pretty good ,its not gutless ,

im just saying it's nice to be shifting again.i drive a superduty all day, but its a auto, i am going to like this little thing breathing its guts out fighting for every inch, a 4 banger stick will be cool again, i am loving this cool little weekend truck, sick ass body style too.

it does not have a degreed pulley. but it looks like it gets about 40* total and is all in around 4000 rpm

 

i just did a weber conversion on a 77 landcrusier and now its dieseling.

due to the weber she bought i couldnt hook up the fuel return line and so the fuel would boil in the metal line on the block. you could hear it bubbling and watch it come out of the carb.

ran a new rubber line from tank away from all heat sources wit a electric pump and bam no more diesling and the motor has a lil more top end, bet the mechanical pump didnt have the nuts for the freeway.

 

Where you been nuff? Still lurking around eh...