How the hell do I do a c-notch on my truck?
Lol I have the welder, I just fixed...
My bed
my front pipe
two sets of cat backs I made
exhaust hanger mounts for frame..
Did those in about two hours



And I'm ready for more!!!


So I'm wondering how a c notch is done, as in what's done before cutting, etc

 

Make your notch weld it in place then cut out the frame.

 

Alright
I was thinking of a half notch, like the half tube

 

So basically u want like a baby notch

 

Pretty much, probabLy all I can do

 

Then I'd put the rear on jakstands then cut out wat I need to then weld the tube in. Jackstands would be there so the frame wouldn't sag down after I cut it out the. I weld in the tube

 

Yeah that's what I assumed.
Where shall I put the stands?

 

put it on jacks infront the leaf spring hanger on the front side...if u put the jacks on the rear side and cut the frame it will tweak the frame i seen couple idiots down here do it cuz they didnt want me to do it for them...and be sure to cut little by little rather then all one time cuz u can always take away but not put back...well u can put back but its harder. good luck budddy

 

When you do your half pipe c-notch, I would all so recomend you to plate the top of the frame just to add more strength before you do the cut.

 

what kinda welder you have , i want to buy one for cheap

i dont know much to it, is there a welder just plug in power you can weld ?

i know that most welder requires special gas in a big ass can

 

Eh, currently using flux wire MIG
Cheap stuff, this time the feed is consistent, this way nothing ****s up.


So far all my welds have been very consistent. I made pretty exhaust pipes. Like 7/10 lol

 

Should support the back with jack stands too. Without out them you take the risk of your frame bending down. Your axel, drive shaft, and rear frame portion weigh a lot. And if you're on leaf springs, the portion of the frame you are cutting is under load. I suggest you use 5.5-6" od steel tubing 3/16" thick. Cut it in half, and the width of your frame. Use the piece that you will be welding in to mark what you will need to cut out. The tighter the fit, the better. Bevel the edges with a grinder before you weld. And make sure your surfaces are clean, and you weld it hot.

Akacoke: I have a Millermatic 140 and its great. Thin sheet metal to 3/16" steel. It uses a 75% mix that costs around $45 to fill the 3' bottle. Plugs into 110v. I think it was under $550

 

Ya I was gonna same make sure you have jackstands front an rear of the springs. An to plate the top of the frame aswell

 

Theoretically possible to do two jackstands on one side first? Then do other?

 

I'm not sure sounds like it could work. Why not borrow some from a friend?

 

Axle stands under the front, put your trolley jack (or even scissor jacks) under the rear to take the weight there.

Callum

 

Ah damn I need Bernie.
I was thinking to do one side at a time to reduce sag

 

Drive it to GA man. We'll do mine at the same time.

 

In the mean while I reinforce your frame and build a rollcage? Lol

alright, I'll go look at the truck today and think about it







I'll unbolt the leafs by the rear shackles.
front of the leafs, on the frame, jackstand per each side.
in the rear, a jack supporting the rear crossmember.

 

i'd put the whole truck on stands so it's higher off the ground cuz workin down low sucks lol. it will also allow the rear to drop away from the frame so you have more space.

then if you have enough stands put them in the back and shim them so they are tight. or use a piece of pipe. or if you use a jack take a measurement from the frame to the ground before you cut (just in case the jack bleeds off). and i'd recommend only doing one side at a time.