ok so my clutch is close to dead and i gonnah replace it.........i was wondering what else i should do or replace since my trans is gonnah be dropped and im gonnah have axcess to many components??????

also can i use a stock replacement clutch with a 16 pound flywheel from LC???

 

It's definitely a good idea to replace the pilot bearing. It should come in the clutch kit. If you have never done one before they can be a pain to get out. I know of two ways:

First you can try packing the hole in the bearing with grease. The idea is to fill the hole up with grease and find a drift that is about the same size as the hole in the bearing. It has to be a pretty good fit for this to work. Then you hammer in the drift and the grease will (hopefully) push out the bearing.

The second method which I find to also be the more reliable is to make up a little puller. You can do it with a piece of wood (metal would probably be better) and some bolts. The bolt heads are inserted into the hole in the bearing on opposing sides so that the heads hook under the bearing. You also need a bolt to drive it out on the sides of the puller. If you have access to a welder you can weld nuts on the puller or just thread it. If you are using a piece of wood then you will have to get a wrench on the back side of the puller to hold a nut. Then you should be able to turn the outer bolts and pull the bearing out.

Here is a link I found to a description which sounds like about the norm to me. The grease trick just got the guy messy. A puller too wouldn't fit, so he made his own. You could just skip the first two steps and make a puller, but then again the messy way might just work.

http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/pilotbrg.htm

I can't think of anything else right off hand that you should do while you are at it. Inspect the condition of your tranny mount for signs of damage or wear.

 

BEFORE you start, just a friendly suggestion, take your truck down to a self serve car wash and pressure wash as much of the underside as you can. You will appreciate a cleaner area to work on. My truck had a REALLY BAD oil leak when I bought it from very loose valve cover bolts that must have been that way for YEARS. Oil was caked everywhere. We didn't think it was going to be that bad. I picked her up one Saturday evening and drove it straight to SD YOTA's house where we did the clutch the next morning. The clutch got done, we pressure washed the tranny before we put it back in, but the damage was done. All that caked on stuff that fell off ended up the ground, in our hair, down our clothes... you get the idea. With it a little cleaner down there, the work will also go a lot faster too.
Go one step further and replace the rear main seal behind the flywheel. Who knows when is the next time the tranny will be down... Also, when SD and I did the clutch in my truck, we changed out the gear oil in the tranny to make sure she'd run as good a she possibly could. Good luck man

 

yea......... like Mac said.... clean it up prior to tear down.

i would suggest a lightened flywheel if you have te opportuniy and funds for it. depending on what type of truck this is (off road or street truck) depends on what kind of flywheel you should get. for a street truck, me personally i like the 9lb. (driven a fairly stock truck with one and it does make a big difference) if you do some occasional hauling, a 12lb be good as well. 16lb youll likely notice a difference over stock but 9lb will give you butt dyno definate feedback.

if the funds are not there for a ~$350 dollar gap in the budget, just make sure the flywheel does not have any hot spots or odd wear on it. (you'll know if you do by inconsistant wear on the flywheel.) if you do have uneven wear, get it resurfaced. should only be around $50 bucks (if not less) to get it done.

**** when you go to remove the tranny ****

there is a trick to it. you WILL need a buddy to help you out if not 2 (3 people make things easier and lighter)

a) make sure to drain the oil BEFORE you remove the driveshaft.

b) when removing the driveshaft be ready to stuff a rag into the output shaft end of the tranny so no left over oil gets all over the place.

c) dont forget to remove the shifter.

d) if you (as most commonly found) find your shifter seat disintegrated into cosmic dust in the shifter seat housing....... order a new delrin compound shifter seat and ball socket from marlincrawler.com they are cheap ($9 bucks) and will tighten up that sloppy shifter movement. remove the anihalated stock seat as carefully as possible without allowing too much debri to fall into the tranny. if a little gets in there, it wont hurt the tranny and just disintegrate as you drive it but still.....

e) i found that the easiest way to remove the 2 top tranny bolts (17mm) is to completely remove the trans mount and mount bracket from the crossmember. also, access is better found with a long extension and can access both bolts from the passenger side of the tranny.

f) when finally bringing down the tranny, pull it back, and slightly rotate clockwise. rotate about 30 to 40 degrees and aim the front of the tranny towards the front passenger side tire...... i found after doing many of these trannies, there is more room to yank the tranny down in that direction of the truck.

its not a hard job, just time consuming. this will on average take you about 6 hours from start to finish....... my first time took me almost 8 hours (including breaks here and there and a tool run) last time i did this it took me 5 1/2 hours. this is in a driveway too bythe way. so good luck and if you run into any troubles, hit us up on here

 

i knew it was a good idea to post this thank you or in hawaii we say MAHALOS!!!

also can i use a stock oem replacement clutch with the LC 16 pound flywheel???

 

yes you can but keep this in mind that they use a 8 7/8 size clutch so unless you have a V6 or turbo model, they will only work on the smaller clutches.

but yea..... stock oem type clutch will work just fine on these.

 

i have a 22r N/A allday............so the 16 pound LC flywheel will work out just fine with the stock replacement clutch?? also with the 16 pound flywheel will it kill my cluth in anyway??? also is there any cons of the flywheel like mechanically or gas kine???

 

from what ive been told..... you clutch it on hills a bit more due to the lack of rotating inertia from the lighter flywheel. so depending on how much you use the clutch to get it going will determine some part of the life on your clutch.

the clutch type will also matter considering some compounds are harder and so on...... few factors go in the wear.... with a 16lb however i dont think it'll make too drastic a difference. the 9lb like i will be running however i foresee needing to upgrade my clutch sometime soon...

as far as gas milage....... im not sure, it'll depend on your driving habbits and foot work..

 

ooohhh ok thanks man.......looks liek a 16 pound will be ordered sooon.................and again thanks man

 

I guess it is probably too late for your clutch job, but I just wanted to post and say that I learned the best way to remove a pilot bearing that I have ever seen. You just take a slide hammer and a bolt (I rounded the corners off on my bolt to get the right fit). Hook the bolt head inside the bearing and pull the bolt with the slide hammer. Use a small drift to lock the bolt in position so it cant fall out. Someone told me about this and I just tried it yesterday doing the clutch on my '79. It worked on the very first pop with the slide hammer. Thing came right out! I was impressed! The directions that came with the clutch kit said to use grease and a drift force out the bearing.That crap don't work! That is unless yer trying to get greasy and not get the bearing out.

Long story short: use a slide hammer to remove pilot bearings!

 

lol. i took mine out in 20 pieces it kept breaking but remained stuck. and it sucks a little more on w50s....iron case lol

 

I was just reading the info here and I'm sure the stock clutch would be good but, when i replaced mine and I've got an 86 2wd with 18s I used a 4wd kit for more holding power and if I were to do it again I would go with a higher qaulity clutch because mine still slips some if I try to get on it hard. Just a little FYI each can do what they want but being a tech I've kinda gotten out of using stock if any kinda upgrades are coming in the future. Haope this helps have a good day

 

i cant take out the bearing, is it a bad idea to just drill out the bearing? when i grease up the bearing and try to pry it out, the grease just goes through the bearing because its all broken. what else can i do?

 

Like I said, the slide hammer works like a charm!

 

You can rent a slide hammer and the attachment from Autozone. All you have to do is leave the deposit until you bring the tool back when you're done. I think it was like 45 bucks. The fork on the attachment was a little too wide so we folded one of the arms back only used one side of the attachment and held the other end by wedging in a screw driver. A couple whacks on the slide hammer and the bearing was out. Total time pulling out the bearing with the tools wasn't even 5 min. Even better, when you take the tools back, you get your deposit back!

 

Watch out for the reverse light wire... goes right across the top of the trans tunel/block matting area.

 

what we had to do was get my unko to dremmel the bearing to crack it open then pull it out that faka was deadly.