Auto to manual swap

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by oilspot, Jan 27, 2012.

  1. oilspot

    oilspot Member

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    Serviced my auto trans and found a few chunks in the pan. I searched around and can't find to much info on swapping from auto to manual.
    Anybody have any info on what's involved in the swap?
    I can't imagine it would be that bad. Pedal cluster, cut hole, drive shaft, flywheel, clutch.
     
  2. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    You can't find info? o_O


    You'll need a transmission. 5spd we hope. W5x series.
    You'll need a 22RE W- series 2wd bellhousing. Somehow, mine was from a 4spd transmission, but a W4x. weird.
    I recommend finding either a manual transmission FROM the 22R/RE trucks.
    GET THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION MOUNT FROM THAT TRUCK, the one on the crossmember too! YOU WILL WANT IT. TAKE DRIVESHAFT TOO. I had to get mine lengthened some.
    Make sure it comes with the clutch setup, clutch fork and all.
    Buy a new clutch and fly wheel.
    My Exedy OEM style clutch (bit better than OEM) came with pilot bearing, throw out bearing, alignment too, clutch, pressure plate, ya know.
    You'll need a new flywheel, mine was a brute force OEM style and weight flywheel.
    You'll need the bolts for the clutch to the flywheel. (Marlin Crawler had Heavy Duty bolts)
    I used red loctite. The clutch kit has it's own grease for the throw out bearing.
    Transmission should come with a shifter, hopefully the shift knob too.
    You'll need something to cut a hole for the shifter.
    1989-95 Toyota Pickup manual pedal assembly. (Brake and clutch).
    1989-95 Toyota Pickup clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (mine were new, Exedy, off of Amazon or Rock Auto).
    I couldn't find any hardlines for the hydraulic fluid, but it's recommended to do that. These lines will run along the firewall from the master cyl to the hydraulic clutch hose to the slave cylinder.
    I didn't have access to that for my truck. I used a hydraulic stainless steel braided hose, - 3 AN size and the shop put it together for me and provided me the necessary fittings for it. I don't have the exact length of the hose, but it was perfect enough. 5ft should give you sufficiently enough hose.

    electrical wiring kit and a hayne's/ Chilton's manual to find the pun outs from the automatic transmission selector. let me know if you have cruise control. Wire up the manual's reverse light switch with the ground and reverse pins from the automatic's cable thing, and keep the Drive + ground wires together. This will keep the "D" light on for the cluster, but will allow you to use the cruise control (One thing I need to do, still). When you're truck is on "On" and you put it into reverse, the lights in the rear should turn on and so should the reverse light on the cluster. That's how it works, haha.

    Plug speed sensor from manual into the connector on the truck.
    A/T overdrive sensor is disconnected, mine is hanging lol.


    Interior, I pulled up carpet and plastic bagged the stuff so i can cut a hole without fire risk. Safe call.


    On my W58 transmission, I used synchromesh, but i'm unsure about the other transmissions.

    I also ordered a shifter seat and bushing for mine, got those from marlin crawler too. I'm sure a used manual WILL have a SLOPPY shifter.

    That's as much info I have in my mind right now, there may be more.








    Removal of auto, I had vehicle jacked up. I says to have something support the engine as you disconnect that auto. You will want to do that, it allows the auto to literally be removed.


    Not sure if the other manuals have a weird shape, but i had to clock it 45* TOWARDS the driver's side to get it up on that crossmember.

    Good luck, let us know. and what chunks did you get from the auto?
    I know my A43D had two magnets on the auto oil pan
     
    emvn_nvme likes this.
  3. oilspot

    oilspot Member

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    Yeah I pulled three little almost triangular "magnets". Truck still drives but slips after you drive, let it cool down, and take off driving again
    Thanks for all the info! Doesn't sound too bad at all

    Oh yeah ... No cruise control.
    Makes that part easy!
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2012
  4. Domer

    Domer Member

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    1985 Toyota 2wd Turbo Xtra cab
    That about covers it... its all the little **** that you dont think about when doing a swap... my W58 needed to be clocked a certain direction to fit... its tight in there thats for sure.. wiring is pretty simple. dont forget the park/neutral override wires so you can start it. your top bellhousing bolts will need to be shorter also...or the side ones.... dont remember exactly i think the side ones need to be replaced with the same length as the top ones.. or vice versa... just use the shorter of the two.. sorry for any confusion... good luck with the swap and its worth it!!!!!
     
  5. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yes, those wires too.
    Yeah, the top ones are too long. Put the side ones on top, and go buy two bolts similar to the side ones.

    My A43D had two square magnets. NASTY.
     
  6. wordtothemothership

    wordtothemothership Member

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    Location:
    Wyoming(its cold and whatnot)
    Truck:
    91 stand cab short box
    hey man if you still want to do this swap (auto/manual) i have everything you need tranny,drive shaft clutch ... everything just let me know
     

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