I need to know what timing your engine is at and how you adjusted your idle also.... Timing, before and after jumping the T+E1 connectors, and what your idle is at. and if you have an automatic, i'd like to know how much your idle drops when you go from Park, to Drive. all of this with a fully warmed up motor... why? because after almost a year of not getting the right idle and timing..... idk where i'm at now... truck runs okay, but with changing timings, mileage is driving me nuts and the truck shakes as if it had a cam.... I need to get this motor back to perfect running.. when you're in drive and at a stoplight, i'm sure your 22RE's don't rock the truck.... Thanks for any help... its been on my nerves lately.
Sounds like you have a stretched timing chain or a broken chain guide. When you put the truck in base timing, does the timing marks jump around with the timing light on it? James
even though im bored .040 over, i ran whatever the book said. my truck shakes too but i have a miss and i suspect its my computer. if i adjust the AFM it shakes really bad
Timing is one of the mysteries of mechanics that I haven't figured out. It's kinda frustrating that I have to put a jumper in to read it.... Who's the idiot who thought of that? Wouldn't even know where to begin on my wife's mkv Jetta.
when the timing light is on it, i see a mark, and usually the "mark" on the "left" is more distinct. probably because of the jumpy idle. I did my timing chain... about 10k ago. estimated. Engnbldr's metal guide set too.
My newly aquired "auto" daily driver is set @ 6* base with TE1/E1 jumped... Motor runs strong even with trouble codes 13/14/43 stored... Will be doing more troubleshooting in the weeks to come... As for idle speed: It's set @ 1K rpm when in neutral and dips between 8-9 in drive or reverse... It doesn't rock/shake/rattle or roll, it does however have a sudden miss and then dies but, that's due to the trouble codes above... <Still trying to figure this part out... Otherwise it runs fine and if I know I'm going to be at a stop light or something I just throw it into neutral... Here's a cheat sheet I use: http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
I had those codes before... I think i'll be doing that soon, setting it to 6*. I need to find a way to attach a tach to set RPM's... its an awkward feeling going from D (low RPM's) and going to P/N because the rpm's raise...
My problems were Possibly related to grounds, and that wire from dist to ignitor? I wish the problems are very consistent. I have had times where i'm cruising, nothing major going on, nothing pushed hard, just regular and all of a sudden i get a CEL, engine running fine, but fuel consumption increased some. then it'll disappear... Good Luck BYE. I need to go down to TX some day and grab some Z wheels
I know my truck is not stock, efi, or auto, but I run a lot of advance on my truck (about 14 degrees) and I don't really feel the power fall off until around 6000 rpm. This is also partly due to fact that my cam is also advanced 5 degrees. The advantage to this is that my idle is very smooth and my engine is very responsive. Don't be afraid to advance your timing more until the idle smooths out; 8-10 degrees would probably be a good place to start. Wiring a tach is pretty easy; all you need to do is attach the signal wire for the tach to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. It does sound like your jumpy idle makes it hard to set your timing accurately; you could also set your timing with the engine off so that you know it's exactly where you want it.
people running big cams set the timing at around 2k rpm. might try that if you cant get it while its running rough