So the alignment went off after I did a torsion drop in the front. I took it to a shop today for a 4 wheel alignment and after the tech was finished the alignment was a little bit better since the steering wheel was off before. However, it still pulled to the left after test driving it. I spoke to the manager and he said that the caster was off because of lowering the truck. Then he said I needed new tires but really I didn't because my tires were good still although some are a little more worn then others. He said bring it back in a week or two since its still "under warranty" to let the tires wear down a little. Has anyone done a torsion drop and have to get an alignment? If so how bad was it and how did it turn out after the alignment?

 

Its recommended to align it any time you lower, lift or rebushing the front suspension. Not everyone does, I don't unless it has issues afterwards. You probably needed an alignment before, but it wasn't as noticeable. See what they say, and if the caster is off, you may have to just deal with that one. It could be fixed by slotting the holes of the front strut bar. As you lower it, that bar pushes the lower arm backward, reducing caster. Less caster makes the truck grab all the ruts in the road.

I'm sure other people will chime in too.

 

Well I paid $50 for an alignment and he threw in the tire rotation for free. However the alignment is still off. I wonder if other trucks with the same setup ride the same or do they have a perfect alignment.

 

I installed DJM lower arms myself and I did an at home alignment. The mechanic said I got it pretty close. But now I can't remember how I did it. Is the adjustment in the torsion bars?
My 4x4 has nuts on the bottom arms that you just unbolt and then move the wheel where you want it (there is spacers/washers with holes on them for reference too).

 

how much did you lower it?

 

yes it is in the torsion bars. I did a 3/3 setup. I really don't like the alignment on it. Other then that it rides fine.

 

your camber might* be off.... but also.... you are running 18's and a low profile tire as well so any small differences in your suspension will be greatly amplified with those wheels and tires.

i dropped that guys white 93 and he went to some 16's on 225/55 tires.... his truck did not need an alighnment after ward.... and to be quite honest, most of the trucks i have dropped never did... the suspension is still within spec of where its supposed to be at and travel.

did you evenly drop the torsions? measured the length of the threads evenly?

if you'd like, hit me up man, im just down the street some from you, ill take a look over your truck and see if we cant figure out why its really pulling. ill also do a quick driveway alighnment check to see if its close.

 

Send me a PM with a contact number. I appreciate it homie.

 

Caster is NOT a wearing angle! But caster is adjustable on our trucks. I did it on mine! On the top inside of the upper control arm there are 2 bolts that when loosened off allows you to pull the control arm out and change shims for camber AND caster.

If you want to change just camber you change both shims and keep the thickness value equal. But if you make one thincker or thinner it will change caster as well (depending on which one you change front or rear will give you + or - caster change).

I will post pics.

 

Ok here are some pics.







You can see the little shiney piece that is one of the shims to make the adjustments.

 

If you look closely in the last pic you will see that the back of the control arm has more shims than the front. That changes the Caster.

 

Thanks...

 

How the FCK do we adjust for negative camber tho?? Thats the one thing i dont understand. looks like if u add shims(evenly) it wil give you MORE negative instead of less.

Or am i missing something??

 

Push the upper control arms away from the frame to reduce camber. Either with shims, or making adjustments to the offset washers. I haven't seen the way a torsion frame aligns in a while.

 

Thats wat im saying, Thats the only adjustment for camber i see (shim wise)

I wana reduce a bit of the negative camber, atleast until i figure out wat it its thats causing it

 

I should go to the hardware store and buy some shim/washers...

 

Negative camber is caused by the truck being lowered. As the control arms start to aim upwards, the line between the balljoints is no longer straight up and down. It becomes tipped in at the top. Push the lower arm in and/or the upper arm out to reduce it. But try to leave the caster alone.

 

look at your upper arm and remove some shims...... this will decrease your camber some. usually only have a couple shims in there unless its really bad. thing is if you have really old or worn out ball joints this wont solve your camber issue for very long if at all......

 

cuz ive checked the balljoints using the wiggle the wheel method and i dnt get any movement. But i still have an assload off negative on the drivers side only. i killed one tire in like 3-4 months. And by killed i mean i flipped the tire so it got worn out on both sides. (sucks bein broke)

I wanted to try removing some shims but as u said not to mess with the caster, thats why i havent done it. Ima check the BJs again. How much movement should i be lookin for??

 

More shims = More negative camber (tilting IN towards frame)

Less shims = Less negative camber (more upright)