Im getting better acceleration when I kinda feather the gas compaired to really getting aggressive with the ol right foot. Truck is a 94', 2wd with an auto transmision.
Any ideas?

Its my first day driving it. Over the next few weeks/ days it will get plugs, wires, timing checked etc.

 

I think timing. Check your dizzys. position.

 

^ what they both said.

I'll need details here.
22RE, Auto, standard cab or xtra cab? How many miles? Oil changed? There's an oil filter in off topic, maybe that'll help you out. I'm running a Class 3 Synthetic 10W-30 with a nice PureONE filter (filters JUST as well as Toyota filters).

Run NGK spark plugs, your local auto parts store can get those for you.
If you suspect your oxygen sensor is going out, check out RockAuto.com. Toyota wanted $160+ for mine. I got mine for $60 (the same part, plugs right in). Should be under "Denso" and the part number is 234-4052.

Spark plug wires, try keeping the Toyota ones. If you can use NGK/ Denso wire plugs, try those. Better quality than the rest.

 

22RE, Auto, xtracab, 210k. Doesn't smoke or eat oil. (which leads me to believe that is isn't the original motor).

Oil looks good, getting changed this week.

Underside of hood said to time at 5btdc with the test plug jumped (as per diagram also under hood). it was at roughly 10btdc when i got a gun on it. Backed it down to 5btdc.
Runs even more sluggish now but way smoother. I know its fuel injected, but it runs like a car with a gummed up carb. Every once in a while she'll get a little more fire under her ass and wanna get going.
The temptation to dump some injector cleaner in it and hope that all of a sudden it will come to life is there. Problem is I know none of that stuff is really worth a damn.


I've got a overfull, intermittently slipping auto trans issue that I have to deal with also. Problem with that is full time school and limited time to mess with it right now. Need to pick up a trans filter, pan seal and get around to that also.

 

I'm gonna have to put up a "turd" buildup thread.
She's a rough little beast! I think theres a dent in every panel.

 

Just because she doesn't smoke out doesn't mean it's not the original motor. It's only a 94. It depends on how the previous owners drove it and took care of it. Try setting your timing the other way. If somebody touched the truck before you they could have set the timing wrong(cam sprocket, or main pulley) then they compensated with the distributor. It for sure sounds like timing now. A timing light would confirm this. good luck. It's only sluggish on take off? How about on the higher gears?

 

Is the main pulley keyed, or splined?
I would think that a tooth of on the cam would throw the distributor timing way out (1 time around for the cam is 2 for the crank).
Think I'll make the time to pick up a new cap, rotor and plugs tomorrow.

 

The main is keyed. the timing chain might be off a tooth in either direction.

 

You gotta pull the valve cover to be sure just set the main to TDC and the dot on the cam sprocket should be a butt hair to the left of the arrow on the rocker arm assembly.

 

Mine just hit 192k and for the past few years the truck has been driven hard every day, literally.

Try dumping some Seafoam or injector cleaner into the gas tank to help clear things up front. I don't think it'd hurt.

Oil is 10W-30, use of synthetic is up to you. It takes 4.5qts with an oil filter change.
Toyota parts number is 90915-yzzd1 for the regular filter that came on our trucks. It has 160 sq. in. of filtering material and Toyota filters have the best quality, filtering media. There's the 90915-yzzd3 with about 204 sq. in. of filtering media, a tiny bit taller than the d1.
PureONE is an aftermarket company I trust and use since the build quality and filtering media is just as good or better than Toyota's. I know the regular size aftermarket filters has even less than 160 sq. in. of media.

So you can check that out. Toyota filters are about $4 last I heard, good buy, bang for buck.

I use an extremely oversized filter, LOL.



btw, think you can adjust valve lash? should be simple if you have a metric tool kit and gap feelers (I think that's what it is).

 

^FYI, a fram 8a filter will also work and also gives you an extra 1/2 quart capacity!!

 

Also fram 16 and 3614 work.

 

I drove air cooled vw's daily for 15 years. You have to adjust valves on them every 3k. And you do those laying on your back.

all of a sudden today the truck starts running stronger. Not all the time but in spurts. I'm really thinking its clogged injectors, or something else that the basic servicing will clear up.
man that would be cool!

 

The difference in quality and design between the Toyota filters vs the Frams are night and day. We're talking synthetic material vs Fram's paper internals and weak springs inside.

 

:rofl:

 

I was gonna say (to OP) that if you had a manual.
Just down shift that fcka and pound it through the 'hesitation'.

So what about WIX & K&N?

 

part 1

Does anyone here replace their PCV valves? LOL


I want to say WIX and K&N are good filters.


Took this off another forum I'm in (SB5Walker), this applies to our Toyota's. Did a copy and paste.
"A new Toyota Truck owner recently asked what he should check or what maintenance should be done when he first got the vehicle. I thought the response would complement this thread since the maintenance items are also good checks for those of us who have owned our trucks for years. Obviously there's a lot of overlap with the first post, but this one has more detail on specific maintenance tips:

First thing, check the coolant. If it is not Toyota Red or if the previous owner said it has not been changed in the last year and a half, or if it shows signs of being dirty or rusty, you should FULLY flush every bit of the coolant (including out of the heater core and the plastic overflow tank) and replace w/Toyota Red & distilled water 50/50. In fact the last flush should be of distilled water since a good bit remains in the heater core. Replace the thermostat with one from the dealer. The 3vze stat is a 180 deg, and the 22re stat is 190 degrees. But many 22re folks use a 180 deg stat to fight pinging - that's the t-stat for an 85-88 22RTEC, part # 90916-03083. Be sure to replace the o-ring. On a 3vze, make sure the thermostat's jiggle valve is positioned at the top (12 o'clock). This post has a lot of info on coolant types, system capacities, and tips on changing your antifreeze: Rusty Coolant

I always do all the regular maintenance work whenever I buy a used vehicle. Change oil. I recommend the Purolator PureONE PL20195 which has the highest filtering efficiency of any filter I know of and which has excellent flow. I've found it does keep the oil cleaner for longer than the Toyota filters. Advance Auto Parts sells it. The PL20195 is taller than the stubby stock filter but it fits the 22RE easily & most 3VZEs. On the V6 it's a tight fit, coming very close to an engine mount. It clears on most engines by about 1/8 to 1/4", but on some, it has less than 1/8" clearance and on those I don't recommend using it. Use the Toyota 90915-YZZD3 instead, rather than the very small 90915-YZZD1 which the dealer will try to give you. The D3 is same width as the D1, but is slightly taller and has 27% more filter media area, giving better flow and longer service life.

In the summer if using conventional mineral (petroleum) oil, I recommend running 10W-30, 10W-40 or 15W-40. With very high mileage motors, 15W-50 or 20W-50 can be used, but that's at the extreme heavy end of what can be used. The right-hand number is the viscosity (thickness, or resistance to flow) at 212 deg F (100C) which is about operating temp, and your choice should be based mainly on how loose the bearings are, the signs of which are high motor mileage and low oil pressure. Looser bearings call for heavier weight oil. Other issues that probably call for heavier oil include excess engine noise, excess oil consumption, or possibly leaks. (With leaks, also consider using a good high-mileage oil that contains more seal-swelling esters, like Valvoline's excellent MaxLife. I used it last year and it cut a front main seal leak down to almost nothing.) In a low mileage motor with tight bearings, 10W-30 is good, but higher mileage trucks benefit from heavier weight oil like 10W-40 or better yet a 15W-40. Basically, lighter oil flows better which is good for bearings, for cooling, and for gas mileage, but heavier oil can provide more protection for sliding parts like cam lobes and rings/cylinder liners. If too thin, oil won't protect bearings & sliding parts, leading to excessive wear. If too thick, it won't flow into and through bearings, leading to oil starvation, overheating & bearing damage.

Another factor is that heavier weight oils tend to have more of the zinc additive zddp, which provides a lot more protection to sliding parts; but because the gov't claims it also damages catalytic converters, newer oil classifications contain less of the additive. Diesel oils like Shell Rotella T or Mobil 1 TDT (Turbo Diesel Truck) have more zddp and are fine to run in our motors. (I used the high-zddp Syntec 20W-50 for many years and I'm still passing emissions with the original cat, so zddp can't possibly be as bad as they say. BTW I now know 20W-50 is too thick for most engines.) Some oils now contain molybdenum, which makes up for some of the loss of the zinc.

Because the thermostat will keep the motor near operating temp whether in summer or winter, the op temp viscosity (right-hand number) should be the same weight regardless of season. However, the left-hand number of an oil's rating is the weight at 0 deg F (-18C), and it's very important to use an oil with a low enough weight so it will flow well at the lowest temp it will see. Mineral (petroleum) oils thicken up A LOT at low temps due to the paraffins they contain, and you will ruin your motor by failing to use a low enough W rating for conditions. As a rough guide, I wouldn't use a 20W-something below freezing, nor a 15W- below about 20F, nor 10W- below say about 5-10 deg F. 5W- can be used down to about -10 deg F. Below -10 F, a 0W- would be best.

To sum up, choose the left number based on coldest temp expected, and the right number based on bearing looseness. So if you run 10W-40 or 15W-40 in summer, and live in an area with freezing temps in winter, choose a 5W-40 or 0W-40 in the winter. Likewise if you run 10W-30 summer, use 5W-30 or 0W-30 in freezing temps, or if you run 15W-50 or 20W-50 in summer, a 5W-50 might work for the winter, or a 0W-40 in very cold temps. Red Line 0W-40 is almost a 50 weight at operating temp and yet it flows down to VERY low temps.

The other major choice is mineral vs. synthetic oil. The biggest benefit of synthetic oils is their consistency in viscosity: they do not thicken up anywhere near as much as mineral oils in very cold temps, nor thin out as much when hot. Synthetic oils maintain about the same viscosity across a very large temp range, down to very cold temps. This means that synthetics should be used in areas with winters that go below say about 10 deg F as they will actually flow at startup, where the mineral oils may not.

Also, in order to make a mineral oil multi-weight, polymer molecules are added, which thicken the oil as it gets hot. A 10W-30 oil is a 10 weight oil with viscosity index improvers (VII) added. A 5W-30 is a 5 weight oil with more VIIs added. As the VIIs wear out, the oil reverts to its true weight, the lower number. So the other big advantage of synthetic oils is that because they have little or no VIIs, they will not shear, or lose much of their viscosity, over time and miles. This also means the synthetic oils can go longer between oil changes, which can offset some of their increased cost: just balance the price difference against the frequency of purchase. Convenience factors in too."

 

part 2

"Don't use conventional 5W-30 in ANY engine

A mineral 5W-30 oil has about the most VIIs, and therefore vulnerability to viscosity breakdown, of any oil - almost all of them shear to too-thin 5W-20 weight within 2 or 3 thousand miles, so if using 5W-30, choose a synthetic like the excellent Pennzoil Platinum. 10W-40 oils also contain a lot of VIIs, so a 15W-40 may be a better choice for a summer oil (or a synthetic 5W-40 or 10W-40).

If using a good synthetic, there's no harm in using something like a 5W-40 year round. The full syn (group III+) Rotella T6 5W-40 may be the ideal oil for most of our trucks, except the low-mile ones. Flows real well at startup yet has great viscosity for middle-aged to higher mile motors, and has plenty of excellent anti-wear additives. I'm using it year-round now and it seems to be working great. Cheapest at wally world.

There are different types of synthetic oil. Group III oils like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower & Castrol Syntec are not considered "true" synthetic because they are derived from petroleum base stocks, but they offer most of the benefits of the "true" synthetics at a lower price. Group IV (PAO basestock) like Amsoil and Group V (ester basestock) like Red Line are the true synthetics.

The possible down-side to using true synthetic (group IV & V) oil is the chance it will cause leaks. This is due to two possible causes. PAOs are known for drying and shrinking plastic seals. Also, all true synthetic oils are excellent at removing sludge, especially the Group Vs, and on older motors that sludge may be plugging gaps that otherwise would be leaking oil. Most current true syns like Amsoil blend in more group V esters, which cause seals to swell, counteracting the drying effect of the PAOs, so the only way they would cause leaks is by washing away sludge. The higher the mileage and the more sludge there is, the higher the chance that switching to true synthetic would cause leaks.

A plus of the Group IIIs is that they won't cause leaks, so they are safe in higher mileage motors. I think Group IIIs are the bargains of the motor oil market. The guys over on the bobistheoilguy forum have a lot of good things to say about Group III Pennzoil Platinum.

BTW, Mobil now uses cheap group IIIs in Mobil 1 instead of the excellent PAOs they used to use. Many of the Mobil 1 oils now shear almost as badly as mineral oils - worse than the other group IIIs. Castrol Edge is also mostly group III and is very thin for its grade, and I think the oil is overpriced. I'd avoid that one, too.

Royal Purple is often trashed as a poor-quality product by many of the guys on bitog (mainly due to excessive shearing).

For extreme cold, use a 0W-30 or 0W-40. Syntec 0W-30 is actually all PAO (google "german castrol") with near-10W-40 viscosity at 212 F. Red Line makes excellent 0 weight oils. A new winter oil that looks very promising is Rotella T5 0W-30 or 0W-40 - it's either a blend with mostly synthetic (probably Shell's excellent XHVI Grp III+ base oil) or, possibly, full synthetic. Its performance specs are outstanding. Plus being a diesel oil it has excellent additives. And it will likely be inexpensive. Look for it at walmart or advance auto. You lucky Canadians can get ESSO XD3 0W-30 or 0W-40, both excellent winter oils. Petro Canada's Supreme Synthetic 0W-30 is an excellent oil too, if you are running 30 weight in your motor.

BTW, so-called synthetic "blends" usually do NOT contain 50% synthetic as some seem to assume. From all the data I can gather, those blends almost never contain more than 30% synthetic, and often the "synthetic" is a group III. I wouldn't pay near as much for those as you would for a full synthetic. Having said that, some of the synthetic blends perform significantly better than average conventional oils. Valvoline's Durablend and MaxLife are excellent, as is Motorcraft Synthetic Blend if you can find it. Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 and 0W-40 are exceptional; they are probably most or all Group III+ synthetic. The T5 10W- weights look to be typical 30% or less syn blends.

Good quality conventional oils like Castrol GTX, Pennzoil yellow bottle, Valvoline, Halvoline, Chevron or Shell should be changed every 3-4k miles. An exception is conventional 5W-30 which must be changed at 2k miles because virtually all of them shear to 5W-20 in 2-3k miles. Excellent quality synthetic blends like Valvoline's Durablend or MaxLife can make 4-5k miles. Group III synthetics like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline Synpower, Castrol Syntec or Shell Rotella T6 can make it 5-6k miles. True synthetics like Group IV PAO-based Amsoil can make it probably 8-10k miles, but used oil should be sent for analysis to verify that it is holding up."




Gotta read through these.
Tall oil filter .vs. Small oil filter - YotaTech Forums
And the better post
Oil Filter Info - Mega Links! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

For reference, the PL30001 I use on my 22RE is 400 (401?) sq.in. of filtering media. It sits 5" tall, 3.8" diameter. It's a big filter with alot of filtering media. Overkill? Yes, and I love it.
I'm using the PureONE and Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 combo.


I'm not saying this to bash on Fram, but to make sure you guys look out for yourselves.