I picked up my truck this summer and at first it seemed solid, 78 sr5 hilux 20r 34,000 miles all stock. Interior and electrics all worked and looked new. The story behind it, most of its miles were from being tugged along behind an Rv then it sat parked in a barn for 15-20 years. The fuel tank was donezo and I found a replacement at 410 salvage by Enumclaw Wa. did a rebuild on the stock Asian carb then shortly went to the weber 32-36 and saw a huge improvement.
Did the other basic tune up stuff, Msd coil and wires, tires, new rotors and calipers full brake job all around.
I put about 2k miles on it then the clutch went out, that was the crest of the bad luck road I was traveling down. I noticed I was getting a lot of oil mist on everything in the engine compartment. After the clutch job the engine seemed to be better than ever except for the oil mist everywhere, after a long high rpm highway run I had oil mist finding its way into the cab thru the shifter boot. I did a compression test and a leak down, my compression from front to back was 50,150,140,120. I knew it was going to be at least a headgasket since oil was escaping around that seam on the engine and maybe some valve work since the leak down provided air hissing around that area. I didn't do a wet compression test for some reason but once I had the head off the answer was right in front of me. The cylinder walls had deep grooves down the sides that matched the compression results.
I'm in a car/motorcycle club that has the whole shebang of tools and knowledge and my buddy Bert convinced me to do the hybrid build because it came up as an option and looked good, I bought into it and found an 84 "tall" 22r block from crystal lane auto salvage in pdx. They said it was a confirmed good running engine from a celica, I paid too much because I trusted them and thought no machine work or rebuild would be needed. Boy was I wrong, I cleaned up the block and it had all the things that the hybrid motor requires for my build,right height already bored .020 over, upgraded to double row chain. The bad was the cylinders had scoring and I had what sounded like a broken ring. The salvage yard refused to take the block back because they dismantled a "good running motor" to get me the block and they said to use it and they would honor a 30 day return if it blew up. I wasn't about to do that so I decided to rebuild it.
At this point I decided to get a machinist involved and looked around the area I was at, turns out there's a shop a block down the street and he does Toyota work. (Later I discovered he is a well known dude with a lot of street cred, and he was very helpful/ friendly)
Portland Oregon ENGNBLDR.COM, ENGINE PARTS NETWORK

I'm about to get my block back from Ted with the cylinders .040 over, I'm getting all my parts from him aswell. Master rebuild kit and whichever cam he recommends. I decided to get the LCE adjustable cam gear.

Just finished my first DIY port and polish, 6" carbide burrs are magic.
This project is happening in my spare time but I'll keep it updated here.

 

Very cool truck. Look forward to hearing about how great the new motor runs. Keep us up todate.

 

You'll love the combo. I have a hybrid in my 78. Good move cutting the carb plenum bar out. It helps alot. Get rid of the choke horns on the weber too, then rejet it.

 

I found an 85 FSM for the 22r, will the torque specs and tolerances be the same for my 84 engine?

 

Yeah pretty much every spec for 75-95 20/22 r is the same. I didn't, but arp head studs are worth the money. Reusable for the future and holds the higher comp ratio of the hybrid better. Ive warped 2 heads using 2 lame brand HGs. 3rd head and a felpro gasket its holding good for now.

If ya need any parts for the truck let me know. I have stash piles and access to lots of lux parts.

 

I found the FSM for my rig after hours of searching, here's some pics of the engine build. Hand working the rings with a file turns out to be a real project.

 

this is a cool build!

 

Thanks for the support guys. I'll have the head back from engnbldr Tod this Friday, new valves and decked.
Total machining from head and block is around .019 to .020in and from what I've read that is the max for this engine build, with the cylinders punched out .040 over what sort of compression will it have?

Also now that the pistons are in and the bearings are greased up, it's pretty stiff to turn over, it is cold in the shop but maybe 30 or more pounds torque to rotate the assembly.

 

I never did gap test my rings when I put them in. I ran engnbldr's .020" pistons and rings. It's ran good to 6k rpm for a few years. I did plastigauge the bottom end bearings though. That all went well. But good move checking it. It'll be fun to drive. Mine laid down a nice 100 foot black chalk mark after work

 

I started putting my timing chain on and couldn't turn over the engine, it is a cold day here and I'm wondering if the grease on the bearings is too thick/stiff? Yesterday after I got the pistons in it was turning over smoothly but it did seem to be hard to turn over. What should I do?

 

I had switched up the connecting rods on 3 & 4 cylinders, it turns over and is all back together.

My next question is why are some of my rocker arms not lined up with the valves? Here's a pic of the worst.

 

It seems like that's a problem for most everyone...

 

The rockers are held in place by the spring and could be shimmed into the correct position. Anyone do this?

 

You guys have been extra helpfull

 

The holes in my new 22r celica block didn't match up with my old 20r hilux engine mounts so I drilled the mount out until it all fit together ( just the passenger side needed it )

And here's pics of the smog pump bracket delete.

 

Looking good!

Just wondering but, why do you go with white on the block?

 

Nobody does white blocks any more, old school hotrod white all the way.
Er....... White Power

 

Hahaha. White power.

Project looks good so far. Keep that smog pump bracket. They can be used to hang a GM alternator on the pass side of the motor. Moves them away from the exhaust and closer to the battery. There's been lots of info on that by SnoNuff here. He runs dual alts but I forgot how.

And 20r mounts never fit a 22r block perfect. Always gotta slot the holes.