Oh and the cylinder walls looked pretty good. Even in the one I did the helicoil in. I would definitely use one again if I had to. The 3rd cylinder was full of water. I thought maybe it was because of me not dropping the coolant low enough. But looking at the gasket it looks like it was leaking on that one.

Another thing about the smoke I'm seeing. It really only shows up as I let off the gas. Idle is clear and holding a steady rmp it is clear.

Looked into that. Standard for a small leak. High vacuum helping pull the coolant into the motor. Thinking I may pull the head in the morning and use the copper spray. Some guys say they would use it in the case of reusing a gasket. Also after talking to the neighbor he thought the old gasket looked decent. He was thinking there is maybe a cracked water jacket or something along those lines. Then again I think I would be filling the overflow again if that was the case.

 

Ordered this guy. Should be a good fit. Took all measurements and it came out nearly identical to what's in there. Going to end up doing an electric fan. The one on the motor is really far from center. Need a new lower radiator hose too. The one in there is tight against the alternator bracket. Might just cut in a temp sensor adapter there to relieve it. I need to get my timing right. Pretty sure thats one reason it's running hot. Noticed the top radiator hose was boiling. Ultimately it could be the leaking head. I picked up a felpro gasket and going to give it another go. This time keeping the service manual open. Checking tolerances.

 

Pulled the head again. Took it to the work shop to have a few more tools around. Used my brothers snap on flat bar to check if it was in spec. One spot was bad. Was able to get .0153mm feeler under it. Spec is .015 ran it anyway. But now I know what is up with it. My brother suggested copper spray but I was still against it. Especially because on the gasket it says no sealer. I was tried so I got it fired up and just went home. Timing still off. Going to work on it tomorrow with my brother. Try and get it running decent. Should have my new radiator tomorrow as well.

 

The radiator is going to take some modding to work. Hits the fan. The mounts are at an angle putting it pretty far back. Cutting out a section in the bracket now to make it lay flat. Just need my batteries to charge. If only the Milwaukee flange worked on the mikita corder grinder. I would be done. Going to need to weld the seem. Good excuse the get an ac/dc tig machine.

 

The radiator is not going to work without an electric fan. Sits way to close to the fan on the motor. Still leaking into the system as expected. Used a 2 liter bottle that had a good seal on the radiator. Had some bubbles and it saw the bottle suck in with gas. Over it. Just going to run it around till it fails or the other motor is finished.

 

The tune up went alright. Used a vacuum gauge to tune the carb. Doing a lot better. Did a pull 2nd through 4th. Felt pretty good. No backfire as well. That's something I've been dealing with. Used the radiator cab off the new rad. I think the old one was bad. Was hoping to get a tach installed that I got from my boss but appears dead.

 

Oh one funny thing from today. My brother wanted a ride to the 711. At some point he opened up the air vent. During my little pull tons of leafs and dust entered the cab and blasted him.

 

Dude i hated when that shit used to happen! Dont know how many times id be slamming gears and then debris hit me in the eyes.

 

Got a spal 16" fan and a 185 degree relay switch kit. Its 3/8npt. Do I need an adapter? Plan on going right off the manifold by the thermostat. Is that one British standard thread?

Also got some m6x1mm bolts for the water pump pulley. Haven't checked yet if they work.

 

I was able to use a NPT reducer bushing for my temp sensor, no thread sealant and no leaks. I dont remember the size tho

 

Sweet. Looked into it appears to be a m16x1.5. Got an adapter on order.

 

Working on polishing my spare valve cover. Lots of pits. Going to be at it for awhile. Got over 8hrs in today. Still have a few trouble areas. It's going to keep me busy as I wait on my new welding machine. .

 

Most all metric thread pitch on these old Toyota’s is 1.25.

 

Seems to be if its under 10 its 1mm if it's over its 1.5.

 

My M8 & M10 are all 1.25. Maybe they used a different thread pitch on your truck. Mine is a 1978.

 

And Mine is a 1974 and I agree that the standard pitch is 1.25 and even for our head bolts M12x1.25 for my 2TC, 2TG, 8RC, 18RC and 18RG.

However I do not know about the 20R information unless I check a parts manual on that subject!!

 

I’ve got the 20R. Every metric bolt and nut I’ve come in contact has the 1.25 thread pitch. Cylinder head, block, accessory brackets etc.

 

@fred heath The water pump pulley bolt is a m6x1. I kind of remember the banjo bolt for the brakes being a 1 as well.

 

Tip if you going to polish your valve cover. Dont do it. Or look for one with few flaws. Another 8 plus hours in today. Got most of the pits out of the easy surfaces. Still have a good bit of work to do on the tight spaces. Dont even have a plane for the inside of the letters. Thinking a pencil sander might help with some of the other areas tho.

Ordered some dermal stuff that should help me get just about everything. Had a kit when I started and quickly released most of the stuff was useless for the project. But what I ordered should work. Also got 200pc buffing set coming.

So right now I got about 50 in dremel sanding things with half of that being useless. 20 in dremel buffing pads. 20 in buffing pads for the drill. 20 in sandpaper. 110 total and over 16hrs in time so far. Also probably going to need sanding pencils and polishers for the letters.

 

Well put in a few hour in on the dremel. Nearly got it all knocked down. There is a few flaws I will not worry about. The second photo is from before today. It already had a good amount of time on it. Just so you have an idea how bad it was.