I have a 22r that the #3 cylinder runs lean and the other plugs look nice and tan. I just rebuilt the whole thing with a brand new top half, a 280 duration 440 lift cam. The only parts reused were the rods, crank, block (30 over), intake(stock) with 38 weber, LCE headers. I do run a LCE pro dist with LCE electonic box and coil. Plugs are NGKs gapped at 44 right now. I have rechecked the valve lash and timing is set at 0 with vaccum hoses plugged. no EGR block plate installed. I've read that webers dont like to have mechanical pumps so I'm in the process of having a carter electric pump mounted close to the gas tank on frame. I've tuned the 38 according to the weber manual and have ordered a jet kit to bump the fuel up since I am more than two turns out on idle mixture screws. So the question is would the #3 cylinder be the least one to get fuel because of the way the manifold is shaped hence the lean condition and need for bigger jets or am I missing some toyota secret tuning I've never heard of? I do have hesitation right of idle but clears up at above 1500 and it runs like a bandit when floored, in fact I've never heard this 38 sound so loud, its like I don't have a air filter on. It sounds like dual carb set up. Or would a dual plane aftermarket manifold help the lean condition?:Your thoughts appreciated and expertise respected
Can you post a pic of the plugs? If it's clean like a new plug it's a bad sign of HG failure... < which might be the reason for the slight hesitation... Compression test it.
I just installed a electric fuel pump and almost all hesitation is gone and changed all the plugs again. B.Y.E. The #3 plug was whiteish in color and theres a ping on low rpm only. hopefully my jet kit will come in and resolve the problem completely. Ill compression test it this week to ensure all is well with the head gasket Thanks B.Y.E for your help
Keep a close eye on your coolant level and temp... It's possible coolant is getting past the fire ring on the HG steam cleaning the plug... Note: Downdraft setups keep a unifom color on the plugs wether it's rich or lean, they should all be the same since they draw from the same source... Atleast that's what I have experienced so far...
BYE is right......... this could be caused by a leaky HG. have you also tried looking/heaing for a vacuum leak on the intake side? possibly try spraking carb cleaner near the #3 runner above and below the intake and see if anything changes in rpm while running. you can also try tune by hooking up a vacuum gauge and seeing what readings you get.
SD YOTA, yep that was the first thing I did, spray carb cleaner around the intake, top and bottom also in my face while spraying from bottom I kinda suspected it would be from the bottom since on that part of the intake its only held in by three bolts while #1&2 clyinders have 5 bolts on intake. I removed the intake anyway to see if it wasnt straight and true on mounting surface, reinstalled. I keep thinking bout that HG and I hope its not that. thinking if I should just go ahead and change it just to eliminate that part:verdict.
sounds like its time for a compression check. Not like thats difficult and it can show if you got a problem with the HG real quick. good luck
heres a picture of plugs #1 on left #2 middle #3 right #4 still in truck going out to pick up compression tester, adding that to my collection of tools
They look fine to me... Yes, a little thin on jetting but, I dont think the HG is a problem anymore...
OK compression check is done #1 @ 160 #2 @ 155 #3 @ 155 #4 @ 162, so any ideas? hopefully i'll get jet kit today to see if it helps
After re-jetting, try picking up your base timing to atleast 5*... Not sure if you have the PCV valve hooked up but, if you do it's another source of a vacuum leak and some oil will end up in the intake system... Orrr maybe it's time to install the DCOE's!
thats right!!I just rebuilt this thing so i was trying to be gentle and breaking this motor in good before hammering away with those 40's
hehehe moar powa!!!!!!! my stockish motor with a weber is running 10btdc with no vaccum hooked up cause one of the diaphrams are broken...it runs great like that. Start out @5 then creap to 10. Or just be like me and go to 10, if it pings just bring it back a lil
B.Y.E got to thinking bout that valve which I hope is the one that connects from the top of the valve cover to the intake. what the hell is it for and why in the world would it want to put oil in the intakeso im guessing that its time to plug it?
PCV- Positive crankcase vent... Part of the emissions stuff. It re-introduces blowby gases back into the intake system for another round of combustion.... It's actually good to keep it used if it doesn't affect your performance much. Oil stays fresher longer and lessens the sludge effect... I ran mine when I drove my '82 truck daily, yes it did run weird at idle and when cold but, it kept my oil clean long enough till the next 3K change...
Heres an update.....electric fuel pump installed with 3/8 fuel line, tuned the 38 weber by replacing main jets with 150's and going one step up with idle jets to 50's. It made a big difference with no stumble although it feels like it could use more under full throttle. I'll be fine tuning it this week maybe changing the air correctors. replaced the plugs so will be checking those too. I think it was borderline lean so #3 was the first to show it. I also plugged the PCV valve and installed a breather on valve cover where valve was. I hope this helps someone who have had similar type of problems. A interesting tuning tip I learned was if you turn your idle screw more than 1/2 turn in you need to increase jet size. If it is turned in more you could create a rich idle condition because the throttle plate will open more exposing the enrichening progression holes which in turn create a stumble off idle and around 1800 rpm. It probably was the reason it smelled like i was getting enough fuel but still having the poor running condition. now its fixed and on to the next mod
