I'm planning to install this and would like to know if I would have to mess with timing or will is TDC where it needs to be? I did alittle research but couldn't find a solid answer. Oh yah.... For a 22re Any advise would be appreciated...
yes you will have to take the distributor out to install the cam, as well as remove the cam gear from the cam. do you know the trick about zip tying the cam gear to the chain to not lose timing? Also you will need to remove the head bolts since they hold the lifter girdle to the head/cam. This is not a honda that you can just chuck a cam in pretty easily.
yes the zip ties so much easier that way... timing may need to change but only by 1 or 2 deg. otherwise no TDC will never change.
Haha you guys are not understanding me. Question was what will I have to se the timing to? From what I read the 22re is supposed to be 5 degrees stock. Will I be able to get away with just leaving the timing like that and just mess with the distributor?
well 5 degrees is fine, but bumping it up to 10 or even 14 will get you a little more power, and better throttle response.
I'm a newbie to adjusting timing but I know enough to give it a shot. Now when you say 10 to 14 degrees do you mean leave the cam straight up and move the crank at 10 to 14? Or do you mean leave the cam and crank at stock 5 degrees and just adjust the distributor to about 10 to 14? Sorry if I'm confusing you all... Haha
the later of the two... and GET A TIMING LIGHT!! It takes a lot of years to get it by ear. good luck with the project bro
The cam and crank are not part of the Ignition timing! The cam and crank are always in the same position relative to each other. You physically spin the distributor counter the direction of the rotor rotation to advance the timing. You will need a timing light to be accurate.
Dont confuses yourself chelu... Cam timing and ignition timing are two seperate animals... If you play with cam timing I hope you have a dial gauge cause you will definetly hit valves at 10-14* adjustment. There is only one set time when you drop in the cam unless your using an adjustable cam sprocket. Crank @ 5* and cam dowel pin @ 12 O-clock, the dot on the cam sprocket is slightly left @ 11:45 or so... If your not sure about it now, is a good time to rotate the crank 2 complete turns which will bring the dowel pin back to 12 O-clock. If it's lined up like you set it your good. Time to adjust valve lash... Turn crank to 0* and cam dowel pin to 12 O-clock. Now, go ahead an adjust valve lash for #1 intake and exhaust, #3 exhaust, #2 intake valves. Turn crank 1 full turn and that should bring the cam dowel pin down to the 6 O-clock position. Now, go ahead and adjust the valve lash for #4 intake and exhaust, #2 exhaust, #3 intake valves. Rotate crank back to 5* and cam dowel pin at 12 O-clock. Drop in your distributor with rotor pointing to #1 terminal. ***Now, jump pins TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics box and fire it up. I've had good results setting at 8* advance. Anywhere from 5-12* should be fine, after you pull the jumper wires out the ECU will take over from there.... **You may have to play with the idle/air screw also... Good luck!
puts the computer into base timing. The computer wont do any spark advance or anything, its used to set the timing, then when you take the jumper out the computer will advance the timing a little at idle, then a lot more depending on the RPM
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This somehow needs to be stickied! BYE, put in the Tech Knowledgebase? Basically it's just raw physical timing and the engine learns from it's "position" when you pull the jumper.
