22re valve adjustment

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by DisAsterPiece, May 10, 2013.

  1. DisAsterPiece

    DisAsterPiece Enthusiast

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    well i think its time to do some valve adjustments. i have only done it once in the 3 yrs of owning it, and that was at the time i changed timing chain. a buddy brought is new, yet 5 yr older yota over and i couldnt even hear the damn thing running. of course mine has the "tick". i have looked on 4 different forums and there is always mixed answers on this. question (1) do you adjust with engine hot or cold? i have always done it hot. and (2) do you adjust at .008/.012 or .007/.011? i have a feeling im just going to have to try all 4 and hope to god nothing gets screwed up in the process.
     
  2. scrub88

    scrub88 Toyotaholic

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    It's a ongoing topic in many forums hotvscold lash
    Toyotas service manual says set valve lash cold run motor check hot lash within spec I set mine cold and recheck after a few heat cycles . The valve lash specs you posted will not harm the motor
    If your going for low noise wich is hard on a r series motor you may have to play around with different lashe settings
    Just follow the proper procedure for adjusting
     
  3. Xs5875

    Xs5875 Addict

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    I set mine at 7 and 11 with it cold. No ill effects, and its not dead silent, but not rickety tickety either.
     
  4. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    7/11 seems to do it for me
     
  5. EvoLLove

    EvoLLove Member

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    What do you mean by 7 and 11 is that valve clearence?
     
  6. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes, also called valve lash. It's the amount of play between the valve and the rocker adjuster when the valve is fully closed and the rocker is able to lift off of the top of the valve's stem.
    The OE adjustment is .008" clearance on the intake side, and .012" on the exhaust side, checked and set while the engine is warm.
    They recommend doing it warm because the whole reason that the lash is in the system to begin with is that if he valve does not contact the seat firmly, it won't seal properly or allow the heat it has collected to transfer away from the valve head and into the cylinder head. A valve that can't shed it's heat will likely become a "burnt valve" and lead to rough running and poor idle.
    While the engine is running under load, the valves heat up and thermally expand. This increases the total length of the valve and causes that lash to close up while still seating properly in the valve seat. Too little valve lash and you hold the valve off of the seat and end up burning a valve.

    Setting it cold effectively results in a smaller valve lash when warm, so using the .007"/.011" numbers are probably more like .006"/.009" warm. I've seen these results in my own experience. There is a way to calculate exactly how much longer the valve will get at temperature.
     
  7. EvoLLove

    EvoLLove Member

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    Thanks ended up doing it at running temp could feel the difference right after completed
     
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