Hey guys just wondering if someone could help me where and what can i use for a igntion system i want the stock i have a msd right now but it went out
i have the dizzy, coil and igniter from a 79 and another setup from an 86. im sure they could be retrofitted in. then youd have electronic ignition not 71 style points. i have a points dizzy too, but wont let it go. they had a knob to adjust the timing arm without moving the whole dizzy. i heard you can put that arm onto an electronic dizzy to have a nice adjustment knob and good stuff.
This might help I was asked to do a write up on this. So here it is in as much detail as i can go into without tearing my harness apart and redoing it. Some of you might ask why you want to replace a fairly reliable system with GM parts, no real benefit that i know of, other then cost and availability of parts. All the parts are stocked at my local auto parts store, and i can replace the ignition module and coil for 30$, where the original ignitor on the Toyota ignition costs over 250$ and is not stocked at any parts stores to my knowledge. I did this on a 22r engine, i would not see why it would not work on a 22re, but i have not tested it myself. It will work on a 20r, or any carbed toyota engine for sure. Parts Required: Ignition Module from a 1979 GM truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N DR100 Coil from a 1972 Chevrolet k10 4wd truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N C819 Optionally you can get or build a heat sink to mount the ignition module to. It is not needed but it wouldn't hurt. Special Tools Required: Soldering Iron and resin core solder Misc. wire connectors Wire Crimping Pliers Test Light Important to know: You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W. B = +12v Power C = Ground to Coil W = Signal wire from distributor G = Signal wire from distributor Installation: First off, start by removing the toyota ignition and coil, it is one unit on the toyota. It will have 3 wires running into it from the harness, 2 from the distributor and 1 spark plug wire. Then find a place to mount your ignition module. Either inside the cab or in the engine bay. Drill your holes and mount your ignition module down. You will notice the holes are lined with steel for the mounting, this is the ground for you module. I attached a wire from one of the mounting bolts, to a clean body ground to insure proper grounding of the module. Secondly, find a place to mount your new round coil. This will need to be somewhat close to the distributor as it has to have a spark plug wire attaching it to the coil. After both have been mounted the job is darn near done, here comes the easy part, wiring everything up. You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W. B = +12v Power C = Ground to Coil W = Signal wire from distributor G = Signal wire from distributor First off, find yourself +12v keyed power. You can use a test light and use the original wiring, or hook in anywhere that has keyed power, if running it off another circuit other then the original ignition circuit make sure it is fused. 99% of everyone will use there original +12v power wire that ran to the coil (samurai) or ignitor (toy) because the factory ignition fuse in the fuse box will be functional. Keyed power runs to the B terminal on the ignition module. I used a connector to attach it to the terminal. Off of this terminal you will need to run a second wire, which will be a hot +12v power wire that runs to the + side of the coil. C terminal is a ground wire for your coil, so run a wire from C terminal to the - side of your coil. Now you have G and W left to wire on the ignition module. Take a look at your distributor, you have 2 wires running off of it. You need to attach one to the G terminal and one to the W terminal. I have found it to be indifferent as to which goes where on my system. Quick System rundown for troubleshooting: When you hit the key, you apply 12v power to the ignition module at terminal B, and to the coil, which then goes back to the ignition module on terminal C. The coil begins to energize waiting for a ground to make it discharge. When you crank the engine, the magnetic pickup will signal the ignition module through the wires attached to terminals W & G to create a ground on post C, which then grounds the coil and makes it discharge through the spark plug wire and back into the distributor cap. I said that much because it is quite possible that the magnetic pick up in the distributor is not set properly. This is referred to as air gap, and must be set with a feeler gauge. It is very easy to set, but if it is off you will never get spark. Other troubleshooting procedures can be found in the factory service manual with specs on resistance and such for the Distributor. Cheesy Wiring Diagram: Picture: If i misspelled anything or if i contradict myself at any point please point it out and i will get everything straightened out for you. Hope this helps someone
