Finally got my financial aid for school this year so I'm ready to start working on an engine rebuild for my 84 pickup with a 22r; will post pics as I progress, but for now I'd just like to bounce some ideas off you guys and see what you think.


I'd like to go with a 20r/22r hybrid setup. Door jam says the truck was made in May of 84 and from looking around I've read that if you have an 84 made before August of that year the 20r head will be a direct bolt on without any modification. Is that information correct? ...

I've already got a 20r head that I'm planning to put some oversize valves in and do a good port+polish on, then slap on an offenhauser intake manifold and a weber 38/38 if I cant find some mikunis.

The truck will be my daily driver and on street most of the time but I may want haul stuff or take it hunting in the future. Im not sure what cam to go with and would love some input there.

Also not sure what sort of exhaust to go with. Have seen triYs, 4 to 1s and etc, but I dont know what the difference would be between them.

Thanks for any input.

Edit:
Almost forgot, atm its got a single row timing chain setup, I intend to convert it to a dual row chain but I'm unsure if I can just get the older model dual row and put it right on, or will I need to get some kind of conversion kit?

 

Alright, got some answers for myself.

20r head and dual row timing chain will be direct bolt on with my engine.
Going to put 1mm oversize valves in the head and get the block bored over a little.

Here are some picks form pulling the engine today.


I actually pulled the head off initially before I had gotten some money for school. The timing chain had snapped and I wanted to know what kind of shape the valves were in.


Pulled the block today at school.


Spent a few minutes outside with a wire brush trying to get the clay off once it was on a stand. Needs some more cleaning but it looks a lot better already.

Plan for tomorrow is to get the block torn down and get the truck up on the lift outside so I can spray the rest of the clay down with a pressure washer.

 

Got some more pictures of tearing down the block and cleaning parts. The block and crank are in good condition. Wont even have to bore it any, just hone and put the pistons back in with new rings.

Pulling the pistons + rods and crank out.




Cleaned up internals for the block.


This piston has got some odd wear on the edge of the upper rings lands there. Noticed it while scraping carbon out the the ring grooves.


Edit: Forgot to mention I got a chance to go over the truck with a pressure washer. Lost a good 100+ pounds of clay.

 

Great setup your talking about there. You have the right block

Just get a 81-82 timing set. Double chain is more better. Bolts right on.

I run the Tri-Y. I like it. No problem breathing past 6 grand.

 

I agree with the tri-y. I got mine from NWOR, but I'm sure others offer them.

the Tri-y is a scavenging header, where as the 4-1 headers are not. The tri-y will give more power across the whole rpm range (think 1k to 6 or 7K), where a 4-1 will give it's best gains high up in the rpms(think +5k).

I agree with rafaelli, a tri-y has no problems breathing past 6K,though!

 

Alright, time for an update. Got lots of parts in but it seems that my camera has disappeared, so no pictures for now.

gaskets, bearings, freeze plugs
dual row timing set + cover
adjustable cam gear (lce)
oil pump (will be blueprinting it)
water pump
261C camshaft (engnbldr)
RV springs (engnbldr)
1mm oversize valves (engnbldr)
valve guides
rocker arms
38/38 weber carb
electric fuel pump

Was able to do a decent port & polish on the 20r head myself; should help a lot.

 

Been a while since I last updated; this project has been going slower than I anticipated. Anyway, I found my camera so Ive got some more pictures.

Block all cleaned up and honed. Cleaned up the deck myself with file.


We got a new parts washer at the shop that is pretty nice. It uses some funky solution called Ozzy Juice. Has a built in heater and it works better than anything we've ever had there. Can see the difference if you go look at my previous image of parts. 5-10 min in the washer did better than hours of scrubbing in the old washer.


My crank; Took the crank over to the machine shop on campus and put it up on a lave so I could polish it myself. Wet sanded with 600 grit.


Bottom end going back together and checking clearance. Its all back together now but I don't seem to have a picture of it in that state.



I put the new valve guides in and they needed to be reamed out for valves to fit properly.


Started working on grinding the stock valve seats out to make room for the oversize valves that will be going in the head.


Got through all the intake valve seats and two of the exhaust valve seats although I still need to grind out the throats to open them up some more. No point going with os valves and leaving the restriction.


The two exhaust valve seats on the left of the above picture are only partially done. At that point the bit on the tool to put angles on the grinding stones broke and I couldn't do anymore.

(not sure that this is actually a picture of it broken)

 

Wow nicely done man. Whats next

 

I can't wait to see this engine put together!

 

Should be a nice torquey little sucker...

Great work. I wish I could cut valve seats. Woulda saved myself a bunch of cash!

 

Finally got done with cutting on the head today. Just got to throw it all back together now.

 

Did a final lapping on the valves today.


Ready to go back together.


Checking install height for the engnbldr rv springs.


Checking the spring pressure for the available install height as it was slightly off from spec. And then getting them in.



Hooray! coming down the home stretch for this build now.



Ive easily got a good 20+ hours worth of work into this head now.

 

Nearly done now. Today I took apart the rocker arm assembly to to put on new rocker arms, put in an engnbldr 261° cam and torqued the head down. Got got the timing set on along with the oil pump, water pump, crank scrapper, oil pickup and pan. If tomorrow goes as planned I'll get the valve lash set, put on the intake and 38/38 carb then throw the engine back in my truck.

 

looking good!

 

Very nice clean rebuild!

 

Awesome looking engine!

 

Well, today surely did not go as planned.

Was degreeing the cam in and had set the lash on the number one cylinder. I pulled out a dial gauge to do some final checking on gross valve lift. It was significantly below the advertised .410 lift... like 30-40+ thousandths below. I called, and wont go into details about that, but plan to return the cam and get a refund. Its lobes are nearly identical in physical size to the stock cam I was replacing. I'm broke atm and the semester is basically over so the shop wont be open. I probably wont have this project done until late January or February at earliest.

 

I have heard other people say that about that cam...to bad. Hella clean engine build though.

 

I hadn't heard that before hand, but now Ive seen it for myself.

 

ok here's what you should do.
buy LCE's hottest cam and notch your
pistons and call it a day... slap your engine inside use truck
and race olive juice a.k.a. Raffaelli.... MWAHAHAHHAAA!!!