ok so my truck idles at 1500, I got it down to 1100.... it backfires now though.. can someone walk me through on how to adjust them ? I remember which screws I turned and how many times I turned them... I turned them all equally so I could go back if I screwed up.... help me pleasee

 

buy a book.

then buy a tuning meter.



tune by ear, there is no "just turn it 2.5 turns" and each screw will be different. you need to tune the air flow for each barrel, kinda more complicated then can be typed out in a quick post, and there are books that explain it better then i can.


both books and meter can be purchased on ebay or www.webercarbsdirect.com

 

I just want my idle to be low like around 900 or less hopefully, it sucks a lot of gas idleing at 1100 and its loud ! lol.

 

give me the carbs and you wont have to worry about it anymore!

 

second this..i havent had much time on my sidedrafts but from the research. u need a tune guage and a good book to help. Also get a note book to not info. Like day, temp, humidity, and then the adjustment, will help later on when u need a quick tune.

 

are you tuning them with your linkage disconnected?

 

You want to back off all the idle speed adjusters until they are not touching the stop, make sure the throttle arms are adjusted correctly and all the throttle plates are fully closed, if not, then adjust them, then adjust the idle speed screws in until they just touch without moving the plate, then give each a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and start the engine and adjust from there to get it to idle. Then start with the air mixture screws, front/rear, front center/ rear center until you get the best, fastest idle, then back to the idle speed to correct, then back to air mixture, a couple times it'll take to fine tune the idle.
The carb sync tools are a waste of time unless your really fast at adjusting, similar to holding your hand over the carb, it cuts air flow and richens it up making adjusting really hard. If its popping at idle good chance the idle jets are too lean.

 

it ran 100% fine when I stated the truck before adjusting them. I messed with some settings, and it idles lower and only pops when its not in gear and i give it a quick wot rev... I dont care if its tuned to make my truck fast, I just need it to idle lower and run good... Ill worry about fine tuning when I have money... nook I like your statement can you go into a little more detail on what I do ? I really know nothing about these carbs and theres a bunch of screws so I dont really know what is what lol

 

no, I assume you should adjust it with the linkage connected because if I adjust with out it, get it running right and then reconnect it wont it screw it up somehow ?

 

like I said. Give them to me, problem solved!

 

I take it your running Weber DCOE's, basically they are all very similar, the most important place to start is with the throttle adjustments, you want all the carbs to do the same thing at the same time, so making sure the throttle plates are fully closed, the idle speed screws are adjusted the same, and the actuating rods are all pulling the throttles open the same is important.
You only have 2 screws that are important for adjustment, the air mixture, thats the one with the spring under the head on top of the carb near the base flange where it bolts to the intake, the other is the idle speed screw, again spring tensioned and down on the side at the throttle shaft.
The air bypass screws on the sides have the jam nut, those are normally snugged down and jammed and no need to mess with them unless your really really fine tuning. The air mixture screws are usually about 1 turn out plus/minus from fully seated position, if you have to turn the air mix screws in more than 1/2 a turn from fully seated it usually indicates idle jets are too rich, and just the opposite, if they have to be turned out more than 1-1/2 turns from seated it indicates the idle jets are to lean.
They are definately a learning experience, good luck.

 

There Is a vid on YouTube that may help you... Search tuning solex carbs. Its an older fella tuning a motor on an engine stand...

Otherwise Nook pretty much covered it... Timing is a key factor also as sidedrafts create less vacuum at idle, so if your timing is on the retard side it's hard to keep it running steady below 1k rpm...

 

thanks, i tried doing the timing on it but the mark on the crank kept jumping around so i guess the idle was too high ?

 

ok, so what do I do with the vaccum advance and retard on my distributer ??! do I leave them open ? or do I run a "T" in my brake booster vacuum line !?!? I was trying to time my motor and it kept going crazy so I couldnt time it very well... Also whats the lowest I can safely set my idle to ?? like I noticed if I put my idle crazy low, theres almost 0 oil pressure... is it ok !?I got to hook my tach up still to see where it is at now...

and I found out why my truck was idleing so high, the throttle linkage wasnt letting them close all the way, so im 90% done adjusting them now...

also found this page that seams really good on help for webers...

http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/webertune.htm

 

If your carbs have a vacuum port, then hookup the advance to it... If it doesn't then you have to find the sweet spot on your base timing...

I wouldn't idle below 850 with your stage 2 cam... A return spring might be needed if it's staying open...

 

I put a return spring on, wasnt the problem but I wanted a stiffer pedal... when i tried timing my truck it was idling at like 1100 to 1500... will that screw me over ? I just dont know why the marker on the crank would be jumping around soo much.. it would jump around in between like 2inches total on the crank...

also dumb question but if I drive normal what kinda gas mileage can i expect with these side drafts ???