Gettin ready to block the back and crank down the torsion bars in the near future... just want to know, because i also am gettin ready to buy tires for the wheels i just bought... Question is, how much does crankin on the torsion bars affect toe-in/out and the +/- camber of the wheel... i dont want to wear on a brand new set of tires too fast
I'm not sure enough on toe in/out to comment. However, the more you crank the torsion bars down, the more negative camber your gonna get. If you wanna sit low and NOT have stupid amounts of negative camber, buy spindles and lower control arms. As far as I know, that's the only way....
custom UCA and LCA's. what LitNeon said. except, i had B/j Flip... then got into my accident... got new tires.. and an alignment and then dropped via torsions. no alignment since, but with a slight amount of camber, i love cornering hehehehe
yes the more you crank the torsions down the camber changes.just remove sum shim's from the upper control arm's,to correct sum camber. removing of sum shim's will push the upper control arm's outward. toe in and toe out on front: make sure your wheels and tires are all the same as tire size and offset, then get a string/thin rope wrap it around all for wheels of the truck,tie the string to the rear leaf spring of the driverside then pull out to the front wheel werk your way around to the front to rear passenger side tie to the rear spring again.now look for gaps on your front tires and see if you need to make sum adjustments on your tie rods.the rear should all ways be flush. NOT THE EASIEST WAY TO DO ALIGNMENT,BUT THE CHEAPEST
i cranked my torision bars and did 3in blocks on the back...but once i lowered the back...i started hearing a screeching noise from the back brakes..does anyone know why..or could it just be that i need to brakes?
now that your lower in the back the rear brakes need to be re-adjusted, there is a valve in the back that adjusts the rear brakes when there is a load in the back to give you more rear brake. so thinks you have a load back there and the brakes are tight on the drums.
Cranking the torsions down to far affects camber and toe. U will receive negative camber and toe in I believe without a proper alignment. Too much adjustment on torsions and a proper alignment is no longer possible without fabrication.
Load sensing proportioning valve is what its called... Drop the rod on it as far as it will go... That should do the trick. And maybe e-brake cable adjustment.