bought a truck and got it saftey checked..wat a lemon i scored! heres a list of diagnosed problems they found..how much should this cost me to repair? any words are welcome: internal vacuum leaks in carb accel pump bad needs valve adjustment 2nd gear synchros worn/bad leaf springs rusted and noisy brake caliber slides are dry/worn upper control arm bushings bad R/R and R/F marker lights inop reverse lights inop battery hold down missing windshield washers inop cylinder head leaking coolant brake fluid dirty clutch fluid dirty center link worn wheel bearings loose steering box leaks transmission mount bad shifter seal leaking bed bolt missing brake hoses cracked =) any advice is welcome
Did they check your muffler bearings.. i hear when those go out they make a racket.. lol but anyways looks like quite a list of stuff to do my advise is to go to a parts store and see how much the major stuff will be first and start there
Well only a few things bother me. Headgasket leaking Wipers dont work Marker and reverse lights The rest of the list is easy stuff, and need not consern you too badly. Do you know how to do mechanic work? Its not really hard to pull the head or trace the wiper/electrical problems....We are here to help
i dont understand why you call it a lemon. its an old truck most of the things you listed are a common repair, you cant expect it to be perfect but like what was already said go to the parts store and get a quote on the major parts you need to fix it then fix it then drive the hell out of it
internal vacuum leaks in carb D.I.Y. $300 buy a weber. accel pump bad D.I.Y. ^ buy a weber^ needs valve adjustment $5 feeler gauge and 10 minutes of reading online. 2nd gear synchros worn/bad call a tranny shop I have no clue leaf springs rusted and noisy $250 or less for belltech lowering springs brake caliber slides are dry/worn $$?? ebay. upper control arm bushings bad $50ish ebay. R/R and R/F marker lights inop your going to trace the problem, less then 25 bucks most likely reverse lights inop same as above battery hold down missing 10 bucks or less windshield washers inop trace the problem cylinder head leaking coolant head gasket figure less then 100 in parts brake fluid dirty 2 for 5 bottles of brake fluid at advance right now clutch fluid dirty clutch and brake fluid is the same thing. center link worn 120 bucks for a front end rebuild kit on ebay wheel bearings loose $20 steering box leaks ?? transmission mount bad 30 bucks for a new mount shifter seal leaking got me there, 5 bucks for rtv ? bed bolt missing take one or all off and match them at lowes, figure 2 bucks each for grade 8 and there are 8 bolts washers and nuts on the whole bed. brake hoses cracked booster vacuum line ?? 10 bucks ? seriously, do some research and you will figure out its not that hard to do it yourself, if its too hard for you, donate that lemon to me, buy yourself a 2010 truck and call it a day.
thats what happens when you take your old yota to a shop thats slow. they are starving for work and trying to fix every little thing on the truck. headgasget, wheel bearings, control arm bushings, trans mount, shifter seal and booster vaccume line are the only items i would address for now. then the lights and other items later.
ive had a 1991 Nissan Maxima that was in good shape..until crashed had a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback that i drove until it required both a new engine and tranny then i got/ have a 2007 Mazda 6..not much mechanic experience required for any of those. part of the reason i bought the truck was exactly for that reason, to become more savvy under the hood. but after getting it back with this essay of issues, it made me take a step back and wonder if i got myself in over my head. so if i bought the parts, had them shipped to my house, uninstalled the broken parts and basically pay close attention to how it was originally assembled, i should be able to install a new, replacement part no problem? the thing has got to be a daily driver which is why i am timid of the DIY attitude..thanks for the advice already
Get a chitlins(sp) or a haynes manual it'll tell you everything you need to know on replacing those parts. With torque specs and all even some pics. But it doesn't seem like alot of hard things to replace alot of little things though
+1 These trucks are relatively simple to work on, especially if you do some research. I probably have a much longer list of items that are currently wrong with my truck, but I drive it all the time.
so what bushing material is more desireable? polyurethane or rubber? a 32/36 weber carb should run well, ya?
Yah man like a Born again build or something LOL. I agree with most everyone elses answers to your problems about buying a manual and tracing wires and such. I love wiring so any issues there give me a holla.
I gots the poly bushings. I luvs em. Just grease heavily at install with good grease....Like mobile 1. The whole set was like 45 bucks online somewhere. Bushings are easy to put in. Really. But getting the old ones out is a HUGE PITA! Like a torch, air chisel, bfh, sweat and blood, ect. And yes, a weber 32/36 is a good, simple, cheap carb to run on a stock engine.
if ur keeping the motor stock just run the 32/36 my motor is lightly modded and it runs fine still with the 32/36
