I run with guys that have a little of everything power wise and would recommend a welded diff anyday of the week. turbos to v-8s doesn't matter.
Just so people know, even though its pretty common info; a "6 lug" is the 8" rear. G code on the engine room tag. Many of the 2wd trucks had the same rear end. Just a different lug pattern. The center diff itself is basically the same. Anyways, good info to post up. I've thought about welding my 78s rear. Hell, with 110" wheelbase its tough enough to get it sideways. Even in the rain, I have to stomp it around a corner in a low gear to hold it sideways. Otherwise its just a little kick out.
With a slushbox? No My FULLSIZE has a 106" lol. But its a ramcharger, so its shorter than a shortbed. haha. [/thread jack] lol.
i personally dont like welded rear ends. I have seen them pop before. I havnt seen a yota one and have not driven one on the street before, but just my 2 cents i stay away from em. a side note: the toyota 8" rear ends and even the 7.5's are pretty strong. they are basically a smaller version of the ford 9" which anyone whos into cars and trucks knows they is the ****, so i can see why they hold up well to welded spider gears. I wouldnt do it to a chevy or something like that, but if i had to a yota or ford 9 would be my choice to do it on.
To make it bomb proof, add a rectangle cut piece of 3/8 or 1/2" plate over top of the pin, and weld it ALLLLLLL together. I've broken a welded diff welded like shadetree shows in my race truck. Add the plate and another 4" of weld contact and it will never break. The first thing that usually breaks in toyota diffs are the pinion teeth or a ring gear tooth. Welded diffs rock.
I'm pretty confident in this welded rear end. I will let you all know if it breaks though. I have seen the rectangle thing before on full size difs and it does seem like a good idea. This is just how I've seen Toyota difs done. I'm sure it varies some with every different type. I've seen some wacky method of welding 14 bolt difs where you just weld between a couple teeth of the spider gears to allow a small amount of play. I have been driving my '79 on a welded dif done like this for a couple years now with 33"+ tires. I've had one wheel in the air on trails numerous times. Was it a Toyota rear end you broke on your race truck? Where did it break? Did the welds fail or did the whole carrier get destroyed? Like I said though, if it breaks, I'll fess up to it.
Haha that wacky method is called a fozzy locker....kinda silly I tried that once its kind of gross feeling with that bit of play in there. ya im sure it will be fine, but the race truck shows no mercy on the diff, landing from jumps with the gas on sometimes, traction and then no traction etc etc. I just went for the added security so I can win! Yes it was a toyota rear, the welds broke, but nothing was damaged I caught it early enough.
I don't really even get how the welds can break without the whole thing being destroyed? I mean I welded the gears to the gears. The area between the teeth is filled with weld. Then welded to the gear next to it. Besides all that, the gears are welded to the carrier. If it is welded like this it can't really just kinda break, as far as I can see. I am sure it will hold up fine since my tires are only 24" tall or so and it is absolutely never going to be jumped.
We've seen you drive Dan... J/k haha logically if the welds were hot and penetrated the gears, it shouldn't break
This is a locking diff that fits in place of the spider gears, inside the carrier. So no gear set up is needed. This is not limited slip, but is positively locking. I have one on mine and like it.
i have a lock right in my jeep, and for how much i drive it i should have just welded it.. to me if its a daily maybe spend the money and get a locker if its mainly off road weld it up.. either way they over time ruin tires and some people roll on a budget.
I prefer welded to any locker, lockers are noisy, they give slop in the driveline, and when they break...they really break! The only thing that I would consider other than welded would be an air locker or a toyota E-Locker. Plus welded gives you that chirp chirp chirp sound in parking lots...lol
I have seen those setups that basically just bolt a connector in place of the spiders. It takes a bit of rotating mass out at the same time. Fairly common on chevys. According to the chevy guy I know with a 327 Luv truck. Lol. I have seen some pretty destroyed toyota diffs even stock. The last one I fixed was an 85 4wd on 35s. Never wheels it. He somehow took half the gear teeth off the pinion, and about 1/4 of the ones on the ring gear were missing or damaged. It was bad looking. lol.