So,I love my little toyota but I do hate having to feel like im beating it like a bad dog on the highway to get somewhere fast. How can I build a bit more ponies on the cheap. I'm planning on a weber 32/36 carb kit from LCE. What headers do people find work best? Cams? any input is appreciated.

 

Also not opposed to hearing peoples experiences with motor swaps. I know the 3.0 V6 seems like a popular swap but what are some other ones that could bring life back into my lil truck?

 

I wouldnt swap a 3.0 v6. Those are not great engines.

As far as yours, Lucky you have an early 22R.

Now for beginners, Id start with a 32/36, ~14 degrees timing, a hi flow muffler and a tune up. (do a compression test before anything)

Next step would be a headers and a cam. I have a Doug Thorley Tri-Y. Heard that they are the broadest power makin headers. I got a 280/280 Comp Cam. Its as big as you would want to go for a motor at this level. Do some reserch, Im not the expert with 2XR cams. Also might as well get the 82+ aluminum rocker arms to free up valvetrain weight.

After that, A 20R head swap is in order. Using a 20R intake, and a 22R head gasket, it bolts right up. They really need bigger valves and porting, Which is a little spendy. Dont forget valve springs. You will gain some compression, to like 9.7 IIRC.

Next, you do have to spend money on real carbs. Either sidedrafts or otherwise. Im running a 500CFM 2bbl, and could probibly get more out of a set of Miki's or Webers, but im not greedy...

If your a bad SOB, then you get those forged Hi Comp LC pistons, ARP bolts and Balanced.

These steps are in order. I wouldnt jump around too much. Im at the fourth step written ^^. More than enough power for a street engine. Can easily bury the speedo at 85............in third gear.

Hope it helps.

 

I just want some more get up and go..I hate fighting with traffic and not being able to hit the pedal and move somewhere. its what I get for first learning to drive on a 1983 Chevy C/30 with a 454.

 

CurtisZ on here has a rebuildable 20R head. Needs valve guides I believe. I'm sure he would let it go for cheap. He is local. If you did that at the same time as a timing chain replacement you will have a solid motor. A better carb than stock is basically mandatory to get anything from it. Pace setter makes a nice header too. Its cheap, and its a 4-1 style. Theres a lot of us local guys that have built up little motors. Read around a bit. But the basics there were covered well.

Oh. And on the head swap, port the crap out of the intake manifold. They really wake up the midrange power and overall response of the motor.

 

Here are a few things I did to get a bit more power.
I had my stock flywheel lightened to around 13 lbs. which cost me $50.00 and an afternoons worth of work.
I also machined off all the front crank pulleys so there is only the one left for the water pump / fan / alternator which saved me about 2lbs.
I than took the fan off and drilled several holes in the fan pulley which cut down about .5 pounds.
And, the last two things I did (which some may think a bit over the edge) I cut off all but, three of the fan blades and rebalanced it with the exact weight of one blade with a steel screw and several small bolts. I post a pic. to show what I mean.
And, finally I took off the stock water pump which has six impeller blades and cut every other one off (old drag racing trick) leaving me with three blades. This allows the pump to still preform but, with not as much drag.
These last modifications will let your temp. run about 5-10 degrees hoter but, with these engines that does not hurt one bit as they tend to run cold anyway.
After doing these modifications the engine really woke up and was more responsive throughout the power band.
One thing that I did loose was a bit of take off "Umphh" due to less inertia weight but, once it gets going it really rpms out nicely!

These are mods that are cheap and work!

Note: I also have a after market cam / header / 32/36 weber carb / aluminum rockers and ignition modifications as previously mentioned.

 

Here are a few pics. of what I was taking about.

 

i dig that pulley. I may have to do something like that on mine.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. So 20R head will fit my 81 22R block correct? Any good places near-ish in washington that could do the porting etc?. So far I'm planning on getting the 32/36 weber carb kit,a header(undetermined yet as to which one) and possibly a cam. Any recommendations for a cam that would be for for say idle to 3000 RPM range? I never really take it higher than that just want a bit more go when I put the gas pedal down.

 

Thats the whole deal with a head swap. The 20R head flows up at higher RPMs than a 22Rs head.

My "powerband" is from 3K-6K. It probably has a little less torque down low, compared to stock. But the top end is a zillion times better.

I would doubt that it would be that extreme, especially if you go with a mild cam (like engnbldr) and a small carb (32/36)

 

Does anyone make a engine mount for a Ford 289 CI? its one of the motors I have access to swap one in(also got a 318 dodge and 292 Y block) if I got motivated to...

 

Northwest offroad makes the mounts for a 289/302.

And a "late model" 5.0 oil pan and sump is needed. Like 91 mustang.

 

This the cam / company I used and am quite pleased.

 

if u call engnbldr.com they can grind you any cam you want... i have the 270/430 cam i still want more but lol thats me