okay here the scenario I am having...... I have been working on this truck of mine for the past three months doing a total overhaul. (chassis, cabin, and bed preservation) On top of that I had done a complete overhaul on the motor. I had finally got it up and running and all it really needs is minor body work and a new paint job. So i fired it up and it starts instantly. So I test drove for the first time. Mean sound due to straight pipe and a killer clutch response due to the aftermarket clutch i put in. (it peeled out at 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear sitting on 33's super swampers) So I was awesome. time to register this truck. So on the way to do so I started hearing a tap. and for a while i thought it was my radiator fan housing. Then the tapped got louder so i pulled over. As soon as i did it it started to overheat big time.(sky rocketed) and engine stalled. I found out that my number three connecting rod bearing is torn to shreds and the connecting rod cap came off. i followed the book's torque spec's so i dont understand how it came off. Now the lower bearing for number three piston is as thin as a soda can with pieces of it stuck to the journal, and the upper bearing is embedded to the connecting rod. it is a bitch to cleaning it off given that it was heated and pounded on. Now here's my problem. I don't know what to do from here. Parts are hard to find out here let alone get one shipped (Im in guam.) Would it be wise to just change out piston number three only? On top of that i dont have the proper tools to check if the journal is oval or not or if i should even think about reusing it. i am not a big fan of turning it back into shape due to quality. and given that i just did an overhaul, having to do it all over again just makes me want to junk the truck. Any kind of wisdom is appreciated. thank you in advance...
wow man, that really sucks! i've been there did you turn the crank after you torqued each cap? I would not reuse the crank, nor the connecting rods. I'd swap out the block, to save you the headache of ordering and rebuilding.
Parts are hard to get in Guam? I thought yotas were "it" there??? Anyway, sounds like the motors gone. The oil system probably ate all kinds of shards and took out every bearing in there. Block and head may be salvageable, (and covers, oil pan, water pump, ect), but Id bet money that the other rod and crank bearings are toast. It sucks to here that man.
Yota's are the **** here in guam. BUT Getting parts are a pain. Folks out here will have like 10 yotas and dont want to sell anything. most junkyard are clean of a decent yota due to the fact people steal broken down yotas at night. ( they will literally tow the truck at night illegally. as far as the other connecting rod bearings, they seem intacked. it was only number three piston that gave out. and to answer the turning of the crank while torquing, yes i did. block still looks good only because i killed the motor as soon as i knew something was not right. head still good, so basically i need to change the crankshaft and my pistons with bearings. any help with cheap but quality pistons and crankshaft that will ship to guam or FPO addresses. like a stroker kit. Ill even buy a used one so long as it is in good shape. any help will be great. Thanks again guys..
Just have the crank turned for oversized bearings. I think Medlers or speedway can do that for you... They should be able to salvage the rod aswell. I'd recommend getting the block hot tanked too just to be sure you got all the shavings out... How bad is the piston? Are the rings stuck in the grooves? And before you re-assemble get some plasti gauge and check your clearances... Cheap insurance chelu! Shoootz!
I got plastigauge but what is the clearance suppose to be? the repair manual is fuuuuucccckkkken confusing. My rod is done dude. deep grooves in it from the pounding of the bearings. the piece of bearing that is still there is stuck and part of the rod already. i pulled it out today and i think im better off just changing the pistons and rods. i was thinking of buy a new crank too. i think it will be easier that way. the block is sitting on the mounts bare already. block is salvagable. so is the head. just crank and pistons need to be changed.
Just becareful buying cranks/rods online... Chinese copies are spreading like a wildfire... They are not forged like the OEM stuff... shoootz!
