i know ive seen people use it on this forum before just dont remember who's ride it was??? it was something you could find at lowe's last i remember??? can someone let me in on what it was or what it was called and where i can find it in the store?? i tried to look last time i was there and couldnt find it... anyhow, would also be nice to know how much i am looking to use (or how many rolls) since i am doing an extra cab yota.
Roof flashing. Its like tinfoil with tar on the back. Dynamat may have noticable difference in performance, but for a budget...anything is better. Use two layers. basically, figure out how much square footage the floor, back wall, and doors are (inside the outer skin too), and maybe the inner roof. Helps keep temps down too.
This is what you're thinking of: http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4443 Page 2. I'm looking into the same stuff.
yea, fatmat is what i believe im gonna use....... gonna do an 01 s-runner here soon. ill make sure to take pictures and such before and after. not sure if it will make a difference but i will also see about getting a video as well..
i think u was looking for my thread...lmao....i used 3 rolls on my single cab 90 yota. i say you will need anout 4? and you can even do the back wall...i say use the roof flashing over fat mat or dyna reason why is because with dynamat its expensive and i would use it only if you plan on going into crazy sounds...but the window flashing will do just fine. i had a huge difference between the before and after. it was very quiet and that was about a layer and a half because i over lapped each layer halfway to ensure good quality. its up to you which route you choose i spent 9 bucks on a roll(hawaii price) and yours one is about 8 or so. and it works a hell of a lot. i would also suggest rubberized paint to help and even expanding foam for the holes and cracks and what not.
This is peel and seal. Basically 1-1/2 rolls just to do the back wall. I scraped off the old stuff, cleaned and painted with por-15. 1 layer running horizontal, all edges taped, then one layer vertical, all edges taped. The tape is chrome lookin HVAC tape from lowes too. like 8 bucks a roll. Peel and seal here is like 16 a roll. The tape reeeeallly seals up all the cracks and stuff, highly reccomend. After the P&S type stuff, lay down a layer (about 1/2 inch) of closesd cell foam. By itself, it only helps with low frequencys.
yea Like he said ^^^^^^^ I used it but I only did one layer I did the back wall and the floor up my fire wall as far as I could get it up in there. It took 2 1/2 rolls heres my link to mine http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5312 http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4506
If you looking for quality wise, i would stay away from that peal and seal type of stuff. It helps, but the materials inside to help reduce noise are not as good as ones made for specificaly for sound reduction. There are two types, butly based and another kind. Heres a website that explains it. He did a test between all the different types and explains about them. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
mine is window flashing. the window flashing is thicker then the peel and seal. and its alot stickier too. i held them hand in hand at lowes and noticed that the window flashing was thicker and heavier then the peel and seal.
I read pretty much everything on their site. I learned a lot actually. It should help quite a bit when I insulate my doors. I'm still in the air on doing the cab wall, but will do inside my doors for sure. Maybe not with their stuff, but it taught me some tricks. I already glued down 2-3 layers of house carpet foam, and black house carpet into my truck. Looks good and I am not taking it out. I suggest reading the few pages in there to anyone doing this.
