bought some bullitt wheels for a good deal. the baby moons that i have are too wide, 15x8 with a big backspacing. so i decided to get the first wheels that i ever bought, again.

the truck was my grandparents bought to haul groceries for the grocery store they owned. very good dependable little truck. when my granddad was my age, 26, he was into the whole muscle scene owning a couple of pretty cool cars, a 56 nomad and a 69 challenger. so i wanted to build this truck with a hot rod feel in his honor. i first learned to drive it when i was 12 sitting on 2 thick phonebooks.

on with the pics...





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the back wheels fit good. going to give me more clearance to the inner fender lip, may have to grind it down a little bit but not much. there is about and inch and a half to the frame rails.

and well the fronts a different story...



the wheel bolts on just fine. but there is about a 16th of an inch clearance to the inner lip of the wheel to the upper ball joint mount. and at full turn the back of the wheel hits the back of the upper control arm. i have some spacers that i can run that will give me about an half inch of clearance from the wheel to the ball joint mount and clear the upper control arm. but there is barely enough treads on the studs to get the lug nuts to grip. they will go on there and tighten down, but i want more threads. so i will have to put longer studs on there. shouldn't be a problem. any pointers would be awesome.

let me know what ya think...

 

sooooooooooooo...................... where the pics?

 

sounds like you have it all worked out. you can always roll the lip instead of cutting it. and on that bed, there should be a small lip brace that you can move to the inner hole and gain a little space that way. use a scissor jack and a 2x4 to spread the sides out from the inside to adjust that brace. it worked for me in the past with a 92. you would be shocked how much sheet metal can move to where you need it on these thin gauge trucks.

 

Can you not see them?

 

nada. did you post them from a third party site or here on TM?

 

try that. they should work now.

 

those look pretty sweet. should look good with tires and a drop.

 

for the rubbing issue up front i would just adjust your steering stops to where it wont rub the control arm at full lock.

otherwise yes.... place some longer wheel studs on there.

truck will look good though with those wheels. nice choice!

 

thanks for the compliments. if i just adjust the turn stops it would be fine, i get that, but what about only having a 1/16" clearance between the inside lip of the wheel and the upper ball joint mount. that just doesn't seem like enough clearance. is it?

 

I'd like to know more

Can you explain in more detail? Maybe pictures?
Thanks

 

the ball joint is connected to the spindle, which is connected to the hub, which is connected to the wheel...if the wheel moves the ball joint moves, its not going to get any closer...its close but as long as the wheel weights arnt smacking it its good!

lol i had drop spindles on my silverado, and i had to cut the rest of the threads off the lower ball joint after the nut to clear the rim. I drove it like that for years and never had a problem.

 

to get access to this, you HAVE to take the rear wheel off. when removed, stick your head in the well and look up. you will see the bed brace and 2 bolts (10mm?) undo these bolts. once unbolted you can pull on the bed side and they will line up to a different set of holes. once lined up to the second set, place the bolts back in and this should give your roughly 1-1 1/2 (dont remember exactly) inches of extra flare to the fender.

i have a truck ill be lowering this weekend. ill take a few snap shots and make a write up on it.

 

I get it now

Hey Alex,
I had no idea about the extra holes! Are there an extra set of holes for all 4 bed braces then?

 

Sd yota, can't wait to see the write up. I didn't think that the ball joint mount would move. Just take extra percatiouns.