Just got it a week ago, I think I just figured out the wiring problem. I want to just to make it a nice truck again. So far it need struts and somewhere to mount them in the back, the bar going between the frame was cut out, so were the fender wells, my friend was going to slam it then sold it to me, lucky me. It needs some work on the bench seat, the dash is cracked(cracked dashes never bothered me though, adds character, so im not going to fix that, but am going to fix the seat). It needs a new grill, just got better condition fenders, it needs a tail gate and door panels. It needs a sway bar and I know where one is at at the junkyard. I have the springs but they are in the bed, it is sitting on bump stops just got the carb rebuilt, and bought a new coil for it, new rear main seal and oil pan gasket were put in by me recently. I also got a nice condition fuse panel for it and put it in, the other one was broken, well the plastic was. my friend before I got it, replaced all the brakes, wheel bearings, got some work done on the head and has new headgasket. the transmission has been gone through fixing some shift fork he said(hope it is still good). I have a friend im buying a running 20r 5spd celica from(has a cam to, was going to be a dirttrack car, it is just fully caged with no body for 300 bucks.) I will swap the 20r if this never runs right. Oh also not a huge issue, for now im mounting the batter in the passengers floor board, or the bed of the truck as I have no fender wells or battery tray Im about to get new tires for it also, I love the stock wheels. Overall im happy with its condition, it has rust in the floor pans and they arnt bad compared to my 76 datsun 280z, the hood might need to be replaced too, it seems to be falling apart from rust. paid 400 for it, 20 for oil and gaskets, 50 to rebuild it, 20 for the rebuild kit. 20 to tow it to my house so 510 total, im going to try to keep track of the money I throw at this truck.
too bad i cant see photos, but i can see signature pic! If i had a 70's hilux.. first thing... chop out my fender wells and drop the biatch
Fender wells are already cut out, previous owner cut them out, im not going to drop it though, I might do 2-3 inches of drop. Got some updates apparently all the brakes wernt replaces, so that needs some work, I rebuild the clutch master cylinder and have a new clutch slave. So now the clutch is working now. The carb still needs to be tuned. I also cut out the exhaust, it was junk so I made something real quick with some scrap pipe, it is ghetto but I thought it was funny if anything. I put the battery in the pass. floorboard and ran the positive wire through a hole in the floor and hooked the ground to the seat mount. Also test fitted some cobra r mustang wheels for fun. Also notice the exhaust, its ridicules. Had to move a engine and wanted to use the rope ties
i have a set of black tinted tail lenses if you still need some. and that sucks about the inners. because with a big hammer, a scissor jack and a wooden baseball bat you can really tuck up into them. lol. my truck isnt cut.
How much do you want for them? I think I have the originals but they dont look to hot. Did all the years use the same tail lights? And yea I pretty much dont like messing with body on cars, if it wont work with a stock body I dont do it. Like on my 87 300zx, im running cobra mustang wheels because they are cheap, looks good I think, 17x9 and perfect offset. Im not going to roll my fenders or do other stuff when these work perfect. I plan on doing maybe a 2 to 3 inch drop all around. which with stock 15s would have been fine in the fender wells. If anything I can swap the cab later with another one, Doesnt seem like it would be too bad of a job to do. But having problems with the gas tank, gotta pull it if the weather would let up, been super cold for the south, Was supposed to snow and everything was just iced over for 3 days, rediculous, I need a garage.
im sort of that way. but ill make as much hammer clearancing and bat rolling as i can get. lol. i dont need it for the steelies anymore but did for my old 16s. but it gives it a mean look to the front compared to everyone else having flat fenders still.
and yea the lenses should be the same for 73 and 78. heres how they looked on mine. i would always sand the lens down with 400 on a DA to get rid of casting flash edges and raised numbers. i think it really pays off when they are finished. looks seamless. if you do, id suggest spraying inside the housing with chrome bomb can to add some reflection. i did on my stock tails after i took these off and it made a huge difference. the before is idling with the battery at full voltage. the second is the truck off and still its brighter. lol.
Wow your truck is nice... Mine defiantly needs work. I think my lenses are just rough but not cracked or anything, havnt looked at them that much, In know one has a big scuff mark or something.
yeah. i lucked out. the one photo the CL ad had on it was from about 100 feet away and looked like a 35mm photo of a polaroid. lol. i saw it in person and creamed myself at how clean it was. he said it didnt run, and just out of having bought lots of old stuff, i tried anyways. started right up. he was mad it did. so i drove it home. had some carb issues but was okay. i put a weber on the first week. lol. and lowered it alot.
Thats cool Mine had all kind of issues, still does, But the main one was the carb. I paid a guy I know 50 to rebuild it plus 20 for parts(Didnt want to dish the money out for a webber when ill probably swap in a different engine later...) and now in 20degree weather it cranks right up. Still needs to be fine tuned but I tuned it good enough to get up to 50mph LOL... still havnt driven it more than 2 miles. Right now its not getting gas from the tank, I think its clogged up, with a friends eletric pump still not getting fuel and has 6 gallongs in it.
it could be. even in mid 40s, it starts tough. but then again, i cut the choke horns off and thats why lol.
I think this one has electric choke and it isnt even plugged up, I dont know much about carbs, I have like 2 vacuum lines plugged up, Out of all my cars it starts up the best, I have more problems cranking my 87 300zx than this thing(but its turbo is leaking oil into the intake and bad bad valve seals is leaking oil into the cylinders or valve, whatever). I pump the gas about 4 times quick and its running good. Hopefully the gas tank will be my last major issue for a while, i want to drive this #^^#@^@ thing more than 2 miles at a time I still need new tires, 15s are easy to get, Still need 3 wheel cylinders, 2 for rear(which are cheap), front one who knows where I can get that and it be the right one. need to clean up some wiring I did to make it run. Still needs shocks all around and a place to mount a shock in the rear. Brake lights and turn signal wires were all cut, so have to figure that out. It has running lights now, but that is it. I should be buying a 76 truck sometime around march and I think im going to tear this truck apart and redo everything, clean and paint or por 15 everything suspension wise, new ball joints and whatever else I can get new. And probably get it painted,
The 72' RN22 I recently purchased has the same fuel cell issues. In the next couple of weeks I'll be pulling it down to thoroughly clean & reseal it - myself. Radiator shops in my area are quoting me $125-$170. I can do it for approx. $80 using only top notch products. I'll post a DIY once I get started.
Yea I happy to be where im at for only spending about 150 bucks so far, all new clutch parts except for the actuall clutch, rebuilt carb, the head was rebuilt and new headgasket before I got it. But I might be working on doing another motor this year if I can source the parts for under 1000. from what ive read is just acetone the inside, then clean it out with soapy water ones its clean of whatever was in there, then use some kind of coating to coat the inside like por15....
muriatic acid if its rusty, fill the tank with some acid and dilute it with water by topping it off with water. Then let it sit for a day. Use baking soda to neutralize the acid, then dump the acid and acetone the inside to help dry the tank. Once youved swished the acetone around really well, dump the acetone and be ready to immediately seal or fill the tank with gas. Give it a min or two before sealing, immediately add gas if you are not sealing, as the tank will flash rust after being acid washed. Then your tank is good as new for next to nothing!
Only special people get to see it. So you can just add gas instead of sealling it with like por15? just leave it bare metal and keep a lot of gas in it?
id still say seal it. cuz it can re rust from condensation if it gets low and cold out. do it right the first time. and cin....thats just weird. lol. i think the back sits too high from the ground cuz the way the lower edge is designed.